LS1LT1 Forum banner

93 Trans am starting problems and doors locking and unlocking themselves

1626 Views 8 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  GaryDoug
i have a 1993 trans am that has been sitting for a while, while i was doing a front end conversion. i took it to the shop yesterday to put a new clutch init and it shut off on me while driving. i pulled over to the side of the road and went to start it back up but it wouldnt start. it would turn over but sounded like it wasnt getting any fuel. however i checked the valve on the fuel rail and it had pressure. i waited 5 mins and then it started right back up and i drove like 10 feet and then it shut off. i started it again and made it all the way to the shop witch was about 20 mins away and the car seemed to run fine. got the clutch in and took it off the lift and went to start it and it started and then shut right back off this happened like 3 times and then it started and i could drive it home. Any ideas what this could be? the car was sitting for around two years maybe dirty fuel??

Also the both door locks are automatically locking and unlocking themselves. idk if this could cause the car shutting off because of the security system on the car. i unhooked the brain of the system and even took out the fuse for the door locks and they are still unlocking and locking themselves idk how this could be??

Any help on both of these items would be a great help.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Sounds like an intermittent connection upstream of the ignition switch and the Keyless entry module. One likely place is fusible link E, which is one of the links on the terminal post on top of the passenger side wheelhouse next to the battery. Does anything in the gauge cluster flicker also?
Sounds like an intermittent connection upstream of the ignition switch and the Keyless entry module. One likely place is fusible link E, which is one of the links on the terminal post on top of the passenger side wheelhouse next to the battery. Does anything in the gauge cluster flicker also?
I did not notice anything flicker the car basically just shut off like the key was turned off. And then wouldnt start like the fuel pump was turned off. I was thinking it could be something with the VATS but the security light wasnt in as well as the car is a 6 speed and has an automatic start so the VATS should already be bypassed. But that shouldn't make the locks unlock and lock themselves??
Sounds like an intermittent connection upstream of the ignition switch and the Keyless entry module. One likely place is fusible link E, which is one of the links on the terminal post on top of the passenger side wheelhouse next to the battery. Does anything in the gauge cluster flicker also?
I did not notice anything flicker the car basically just shut off like the key was turned off. And then wouldnt start like the fuel pump was turned off. I was thinking it could be something with the VATS but the security light wasnt in as well as the car is a 6 speed and has an automatic start so the VATS should already be bypassed. But that shouldn't make the locks unlock and lock themselves??
That's why I mentioned a power loss to the remote entry module. That controls the door locks.
That's why I mentioned a power loss to the remote entry module. That controls the door locks.
Alright sweet thanks, I'll try to find the fusible link E and check that out. Anything else I should check out?
The easiest and probably best test is to just move the link(s) and wire(s) around while the ignition is on and notice if the locks operate by themselves or the engine stops.
The easiest and probably best test is to just move the link(s) and wire(s) around while the ignition is on and notice if the locks operate by themselves or the engine stops.
I tryed and wiggled all the wires as well has the ones under the dash still no luck... the locks still unlock and lock themselves even with the fuse out and the car off
All right. let's try another tack. I have a feeling that if you monitor the voltage at the fuses, you can narrow this down. I would measure the Gages and Courtesy fuse voltages (not at the same time) while this is happening and see if the 12v drops out there. The Gages fuse carries the ignition voltage to the Remote wireless entry. The Courtesy fuse carries current to the Remote wireless entry, and is on the same circuit as the PCM battery power. If those don't show anything, I would try measuring at other fuses. They are a convenient place to monitor circuits. If you find one that drops out, this can help trace the problem. Good luck.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top