Here is what I KNOW...
Your A arms will have enough adjustment if you're trying to go with 0 camber. The only way you'll run out of adjustment is if you're trying to go negative camber, and you can still dial in A LOT of negative camber on the stock pieces. I've had LG G2 Super Springs, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, HAL QA1 Springs, and now Stock Springs with Koni Yellows on the lower perch, and I've had it aligned every single time with every single setup. If some place or somebody is telling you that garbage then either punch them in the mouth or walk out the front door and never take your car there again.
With caster and camber it's give and take, so decide what you want the most. The typical comfort/handling alignment for F-Bodies is as follows...
CASTER: 4 degrees POSITIVE (+)
CAMBER: 0.5-1.0 degrees NEGATIVE (-)
TOE: 0"
You can add in up to around 1.3-1.5, and some people have even been able to go as high as 1.8 degrees negative camber on the stock setup, but the most I've ever had was 1.3 degrees. I also wont give up any caster either so they can only get so much camber out of my setup (positive caster maintains high speed stability but requires a little more steering effort and widens your turning radius some). You can also add toe in or out but it's unnecessary IMO. Toe in will make your car track a little less and toe out will increase your initial turn in response but will also make your car track considerably more. IMO and many others, 4+ Caster and 0 Toe is ideal for these cars. Choose your camber based on your needs. Max tire wear with little concern for handling, put the camber at 0-0.5 NEGATIVE. Tire wear + traction compromise is 0.5-1.0 NEGATIVE camber. Max traction with disregard for tire wear have them put the caster at 4+ and then dial in as much camber as possible while keeping the sides within the same range (should be between 1.0-1.5 NEGATIVE camber).
Moral of the story: Chill out about your a-arms, they are fine.