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3/4 clutch pack Clearance

45804 Views 48 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  stephx0609
ok i am up to this point i am trying to install the Alto "power pack" 9 friction kit and i have .107

at 9x.010 I need 0.090 min and .125 max for tote stack? 9 frictions is this right? or is that too tight?
can i use some of the old steels as the top spacer plate to adjust the Clearances? If I put the stock thick one back in I don’t have room at all...




If I need to ill take a pic on how I have them stacked up..
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First off, let me state right up front that I never intended a pissing contest. I don't think you took my comment that way, but I just want to make sure you knew that that wasn't my intention. I truly was curious as to your theories and conclusions.

I have been building GM transmissions for 24(ish) years in various "venues" (dealership, independent and now run my own shop) and I have wrestled with the concept of the load release springs at times over the years. I understand their intended purpose and, honestly, like the way that they hold the apply and backing plates apart, especially when running a 7 disc stack at .025-.030".

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not the smartest guy on earth and there are no degrees hanging on my office wall, but I have always been a conceptual thinker and am always trying to answer not only the question "how", but also the question of "why"... I tend to take pieces of information from different sources (HydraMatic, ATSG, GM field engineers, etc.) and run them through my "filter" and figure out the how's and why's and come to my own conclusions. I remember when ATSG came out against the load release springs, but I never could reason out "why". My thinking was that when you compare a stock 4L60E return spring set combined with a set of load release springs, the overall spring rate is still quite a bit lighter than, say, a set of Transgo 3-4 return springs (which I'm not a big fan of, BTW). I like to deal with centrifugal apply in a different way, but if Gil Younger was OK with that much return spring, it must not be much of an issue. I came to the conclusion that the load release springs are a fairly light spring set and add little to the overall return spring rate, yet add the benefit of keeping the apply and backing plates apart when released, so I use them and have had good success with using them.

I build, on average, about 200 4L80E, 4L60E and 700R4 transmissions a year, most in either high performance or heavy duty applications. Thankfully, I have managed to keep my warranty rate down to basically zero. With the rare exception, they leave and don't come back. While not at all intending to sound arrogant, I don't run into many people that have as much experience with them as I do... LOL... But, one thing that I have ALWAYS held to is that there's ALWAYS something to be learned. ALWAYS!! It is obvious that you've been through the wars with these things over the years, not just in theory, but in actual practice, so I'm "all ears" as to your 3-4 clutch theories...!!
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No, I wasn't referring to you with the "pissing contest" thing. As you can imagine, I have ran across that on several other forums.
I like the way you approach things. I'm sure we can work together on here to help members solve their transmission issues.

Frank
Omg this is so frigging interesting i wish any of you guys live around Chicago to fix my 700r4 so much knowledge...

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I'm glad to hear the 2 of you will be working together, as helping the members should always be the first consideration.
I'm glad to hear the 2 of you will be working together, as helping the members should always be the first consideration.
LOL... Isn't that supposed to be the idea of forums? To help members diagnose and fix things? I think the administrators of the Impala SS forum have forgot that...LOL. I wasn't allowed to answer transmission questions there because I'm a transmission builder. Um, isn't that who you would want to answer your transmission questions?...LOL That site is a joke.

Frank
LOL... Isn't that supposed to be the idea of forums? To help members diagnose and fix things? I think the administrators of the Impala SS forum have forgot that...LOL. I wasn't allowed to answer transmission questions there because I'm a transmission builder. Um, isn't that who you would want to answer your transmission questions?...LOL That site is a joke.

Frank
Really??????

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Really??????
Unfortunately, yes. I was told directly from the administrator that I wasn't even allowed to state that I was a transmission builder. I could understand them not letting me advertise my business, but I don't understand why I can't even tell members what I do. Doesn't that add credibilty to the advice you're giving?

Frank
My name is Jon and I'm a transmission builder...!! :LS1LT1flag:

Yep, that's why we're all here; to help each other! And, hey, two heads are better than one!
Unfortunately, yes. I was told directly from the administrator that I wasn't even allowed to state that I was a transmission builder. I could understand them not letting me advertise my business, but I don't understand why I can't even tell members what I do. Doesn't that add credibilty to the advice you're giving?

Frank
No kidding huh... Some ppl are a$$es...

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I tried out several other forums before I settled here, and was amazed at the restrictive rules and regulations they enforced. One forum, forever to go unnamed, even told me I could not post a link to anything that wasn't a paid sponsor to the forum.
I tried out several other forums before I settled here, and was amazed at the restrictive rules and regulations they enforced. One forum, forever to go unnamed, even told me I could not post a link to anything that wasn't a paid sponsor to the forum.
It ain't abt helping then? Money talks lol

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That's why I'm here. Sure the people who own the forums are trying to make a buck. But I think they are smart enough to know if you run all the members away, then your not going to have paying sponsors very long.
I tried out several other forums before I settled here, and was amazed at the restrictive rules and regulations they enforced. One forum, forever to go unnamed, even told me I could not post a link to anything that wasn't a paid sponsor to the forum.
I also had customers of mine who were told they couldn't mention who built their transmissions on the Impala SS forum. Then again, I tried to post a link to a place where I got a great deal on some Vette parts for our '01 on the Corvette forum and was told it wasn't allowed.
To add to this, I got a call from the advertising manager from the Impala SS forum today. I point blank asked what their forums purpose was. I asked if it would be more beneficial to the forum if I just paid to be a vendor and stopped answering tech questions OR continued to help members without being a vendor? I was told it was more important to be a vendor as far as they were concerned.

Frank

Frank
That's why I'm here. Sure the people who own the forums are trying to make a buck. But I think they are smart enough to know if you run all the members away, then your not going to have paying sponsors very long.
Very good point. The woman who runs the Impala SS forum has a real nasty "holier than thou" attitude. Certainly NOT the kind who is easy to deal with.

Frank
Very good point. The woman who runs the Impala SS forum has a real nasty "holier than thou" attitude. Certainly NOT the kind who is easy to deal with.

Frank
Eh maybe she was on her period lol not to offend any woman on this forum lol

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Same here, I enjoy this forum the most because most are nice people trying to help and encourage one another.
I don't like anyone here, I even fought Mystery last week in real life. I lost, but it sure was worth getting in a few punches!

Naaah, this forum is fun. Rarely any name calling or threads that are off topic from automotive stuff. It's a nice place to visit if you want to read about people and their auto projects.

I've seriously gone out of my way along with other members going out of their way (Dynamic396 and MysteryBird) to help out or meet in person. It's been great meeting those awesome members and picking their brain while having a few brews. What a nice experience these past few years!
Since this thread is 5 years old I'd like to ask a few questions about the 3/4 clutch stacks available today. Hopefully someone still comments on this thread :)

This is my first rebuild on a 700r4. I've done a few TH350's and worked as a GM tech for 10+ years before getting injured and changing careers.
The trans is out of a 1989 305 V8 Camaro. I'm also installing the Transgo 700 shift kit, Corvette servo, .500 boost valve, and steel pump rings. It's behind a mild 350 400hp if I'm lucky

I bought a BorgWarner MaxPack kit with the following...

MAXPACK

THIS KIT CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING ITEMS;

(x8) BORG-WARNER CARBON High Energy friction clutch plates at 0.062" thick.
(x7) Raybestos or ALTO high quality steel plates at 0.078" thick.
(x1) Raybestos or ALTO high quality steel apply plate at 0.125" thick

The best stack I came up with so far was to leave two of the 8 frictions out, and substitue a stock .08 friction in place of one of the thinner .065. I currently have the stack installed in this order and have about .030-.032 between the snap ring and top plate:

Apply ring with the 7 stamped on it
Retaining ring with the 5 tangs facing down that lock in .056
Raybestos Apply plate no bevel .129 thick stock on I have is .172
Stock apply plate steel
Friction .065
Steel .080
Friction .065
Steel .080
Friction .080
Steel .080
Friction .065
Steel .080
Friction .065
Steel .080
Friction .065
Steel .080
Friction .065
Stock Top plate .240
Snap ring






Yeah, I'm not a giant fan of the Alto 9 disc stack, either. Sure, you get 9 frictions in there, but you have sacrificed too much thickness on both the frictions and the steels to make them much good at tolerating heat. The Alto kits measure .062" on the frictions and .060" on the steels - pretty thin...

A 700R4/4L60E 3-4 clutch is kind of an anomaly of sorts. It's such a weak clutch design that convention kind of gets thrown out the window to make them last, but shift well. The thing that comes into play is not only lubrication and cooling of the plates (more clearance is better), but the quality of the 2-3 shift (less clearance is better). During the 2-3 shift, the transmission is releasing the band and engaging the 3-4 clutch simultaneously. When the valve body commands the shift, pressure is sent to the back side of the 2nd gear band servo and to the 3-4 clutch piston at the same time. The band begins to release almost instantly, so during the time between the release of the band and the engagement of the 3-4 clutch, you're, quite literally, in first gear for a fraction of a second. This is why it is so critical for the 3-4 clutch clearance to be as tight as possible, while still allowing the plates to lubricate and cool acceptably. The tighter the clearance, the less time it will take for the 3-4 piston and apply ring to travel the distance necessary to begin clamping down on the clutch plates.

In either case, .107" may as well be a mile... That's WAY too much clearance. You're right in that conventional thinking provides appx. .010" per friction in the stack for good lube and cooling. But, even .090" (9 x .010") is way too much clearance. Your 2-3 shift will be a bit of a lazy, slide-shift at low throttle and, under heavy acceleration, you're likely to have some flare, especially as the plates begin to wear and the clearance increases even further. When I use a 9 disc setup (not often), I use the red frictions and kolene steels and shoot for .030-.035", and definitely no more than .040". Transgo recommends .015-.020" in their shift kit instructions, but that's for a stock 6 disc stack. You won't get away with that using 9 thin discs for very long.

At the risk of giving away trade secrets, my preferred stackup, starting at the piston, goes like this:
-Bonded steel piston
-"7" apply ring (a "4" will work if that's all you've got, but pretty much all 4L60E's came with "7"s)
-Stock return springs
-Factory NEW 3-4 apply plate (OEM AC Delco only)
-7 Borg Warner high energy frictions (factory 4L60E plates)
-6 700R4 .076" steels (stock or kolene, your choice)
-Factory NEW 3-4 clutch backing plate (OEM AC Delco only)
-.093" snap ring
-This stack almost always comes out between .022-.025".
-On a high RPM application, I'll drill a .035" relief hole in the input drum at outer edge of the 3-4 piston bore to prevent centrifugal apply, thus dragging the plates unnecessarily.

One more thing... I ALWAYS use the load release springs in the 3-4 clutch. These are important when running a tight stack because they force the apply and backing plates apart when the clutch is released, minimizing drag on the plates between them. If yours are missing, or have lost their tension, get new ones and put them in...

Sorry for the novel...!
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I believe if you use what dynamic396 advised in the quote you included in your post, you can't go wrong.
So that still the go to standard then? No changes the last 5 years?
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