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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I want to start by saying I have been researching and searching the forums for similar issues but decided I would go ahead and make a new thread.
I have a 96 T/A WS6 with Lloyd Elliot stage 2 heads, 1.6 rr, hardened pushrods, comp cams 503 cam, ported intake manifold, a 3200 Stall lock-up style converter, Spohn Adjustable LCA's, etc. My question is about the transmission but I figured a list of current mods would be helpful. The transmission is stock at 114k aside from the converter and I feel like I could be on borrowed time with it and the stock 10 bolt (aside from 3.73's). The transmission shifts fine at normal operation but when I floor it, I think it's the 1-2 shift & 2-3 shift, the problem changes between those two shifts at WOT. It will slip at the shift point and sometimes requires that I let off the throttle before it shifts. I am uncertain if this is a converter issue, or the transmission, or maybe both combined because it also will stall out after at operating temp when I stop and put it in reverse or drive almost like the torque converter clutch isn't disengaging.
Ok so I hope that wasn't confusing, but I was looking for some input and advice. I have been thinking about buying a used 4L60E and doing a rebuild kit on it and some other parts (like "the beast" and corvette servo) or maybe going with a performabuilt transmission and a new converter if the one I have is going bad. This vehicle is a street/strip car for now and probably will be for a few years but I would rather do it right the first time.
 

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I have the same car with an lt-1 pushing 459 hp. I have the same transmission and had the same problem but mine finally went out through a shift from 2-3 at 104 mph. It was the bands in the tranny and coulda been fixed with a b&m rebuild. But I never got to it. Hope this helps


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Discussion Starter #3
I have the same car with an lt-1 pushing 459 hp. I have the same transmission and had the same problem but mine finally went out through a shift from 2-3 at 104 mph. It was the bands in the tranny and coulda been fixed with a b&m rebuild. But I never got to it. Hope this helps


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Thanks for the info, what did you do to repair the problem after it went bad?
 

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These 4L60Es were never desihned to shift at high RPMs from the factory. Thay are designed to start dropping pressure at 5000 RPMs. They use an "accumulator", which is a delay that helps soften the shift apply. The 4L60E uses an accumulator for each gear change. We go through quite a bit to reduce the over all shift time in our race units. The quicker you can get a clutch or band to apply, the less chance it has to slip. Accumulation is part of the problem, timing, pressure, and holding power also factor in. In modified form, a 4L60E can be a great trans and can handle alot of abuse.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These 4L60Es were never desihned to shift at high RPMs from the factory. Thay are designed to start dropping pressure at 5000 RPMs. They use an "accumulator", which is a delay that helps soften the shift apply. The 4L60E uses an accumulator for each gear change. We go through quite a bit to reduce the over all shift time in our race units. The quicker you can get a clutch or band to apply, the less chance it has to slip. Accumulation is part of the problem, timing, pressure, and holding power also factor in. In modified form, a 4L60E can be a great trans and can handle alot of abuse.

Frank
Thank you for the insight Frank, I have experience with Ford Automatics enough to know basics like parts and function, but I have not made the move to Auto Trans tech yet even though I am certified I would like more experience before going that route. So would going with a 4L60E that has built to handle the extra power and RPM, along with some valve body changes could be a good route to go down then? Or is there maybe a kit available that you would recommend? Either way I expected to pay a premium to get the vehicle to be reliable even with the days at the drag strip. I've learned throughout my time that you should do things right the first time instead of trying to cut corners as that most likely will end up costing you more in the long run.
 

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Depends on what your overall goals are, if this car is a "keeper",then I would probably remove the trans and have a nice street/strip build done
on it. If you have the $$ you could get a mild street converter and be in pretty good shape as far as transmissions go. ed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Depends on what your overall goals are, if this car is a "keeper",then I would probably remove the trans and have a nice street/strip build done
on it. If you have the $$ you could get a mild street converter and be in pretty good shape as far as transmissions go. ed
Thanks Ed, the car is for sure a keeper. I have a 3200rpm converter but I think I may go with a Yank SS3600 however I am not sure that converter has a lock up so I may find another model with lock up because I do still highway drive the vehicle. I am leaning toward getting a performance rebuild to handle my power goals, future plans include a 383 stroker and some nitrous and eventually will be a track only car but is going to remain street/strip for now and most likely another 4-5 years before I make it track only. I love going to the track but I also love driving the vehicle so I believe I'll enjoy driving it and weekend racing it for a while but still want to make the 4L60E as dependable as I can because anything can happen at the track lol.
Any suggestions on the converter choice or maybe one you have had good luck with?
 

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Protorque. I've been using them in everything for 10 years and I've been a distributor for the past 7.


Frank
 

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Thanks Ed, the car is for sure a keeper. I have a 3200rpm converter but I think I may go with a Yank SS3600 however I am not sure that converter has a lock up so I may find another model with lock up because I do still highway drive the vehicle. I am leaning toward getting a performance rebuild to handle my power goals, future plans include a 383 stroker and some nitrous and eventually will be a track only car but is going to remain street/strip for now and most likely another 4-5 years before I make it track only. I love going to the track but I also love driving the vehicle so I believe I'll enjoy driving it and weekend racing it for a while but still want to make the 4L60E as dependable as I can because anything can happen at the track lol.
Any suggestions on the converter choice or maybe one you have had good luck with?
What I installed was a GM astro van torque converter, If I had to do it over I would have probably gone with a Yank converter,but thats for another day. Frank Cahill knows his stuff so anything he recomends
has credibility. ed
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I fixed it by putting a standard in it because I completely grenaded the tranny


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Haha, would be a viable option for me but I would like the consistency of the Auto at the drag strip. I've owned plenty of vehicles with standard transmissions/transaxles including a 400 awhp Evo VIII so I'm no stranger to them.
 
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