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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That sounds like it would be useful to have, I will look into that, I have thought this before with other things I have found but I'm hoping that I found my problem. I had 5 out of the 12 exhaust manifold bolts loose, and 2 of them were the back drivers side, which would explain the high blm's on bank 1. The very front bolt on that side was also loose, the 2 on the passenger side were at least on different exhaust ports. I don't know how I missed this but the farthest back drivers side spark plug boot has a big hole in it right where the end of the spark plug connects to the metal in the boot. I will put up how it goes when I am done fixing those issues, but I'm crossing my fingers, either way I really appreciate all the advice it has already steered me towards what are issues that needed to be fixed either way.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Now the exhaust manifold bolts are tight and the plug wire issue has been fixed, I am pretty sure it runs worse now. it starts up quickly and strongly like it always has, it sounds like it fires up on the first turn but I can hear it in the idle and feel it when I drive with the loss of power and just the sound of the engine, open and close loop, not to mention the 154 Lt fuel trim bank 1 and 133 bank 2 with injector pulse widths in the mid 4s at idle and I can smell its not running lean. I'm hoping that the leaks I sealed up allowed the main leak, whatever it is, to leak more or suck in more air. Now I'm waiting on the vacuum tester to come in the mail, that's the last idea I have, without looking at the opti but it starts like its just off the lot.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I ran a vacuum test and it has 17 inches at idle and when I hit the gas quickly and let it go it will go to 0 then to 24 and back down to 17. from what I know it is supposed to be 20 inches at idle but I'm not sure if being at 17 is causing the problem I have. I am completely lost at this point, its hard for me to believe it has to do with the opti since it starts up so quickly and everything. If anyone has an idea or has had a similar problem please let me know...
 

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I drove the car without the computer since I could hear and smell that it is still dumping fuel in. The car will have light backfire with a rev in park of close to 2k rpm's and I can smell the fuel smell when I shut the vehicle off so that tells me the high blm's are an indication of a false lean condition not a real one where it actually needs the added fuel. I ordered a vacuum tester and I'm hoping I can find a vacuum leak that I have missed or something. I'm getting good spark, I don't see any sparks from the plug wires when I looked in the dark, and it cold or warm starts quicker than some new vehicle's do and it always has. If I don't find anything with the vacuum tester when it gets here I really wont know what to try next.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I haven't checked the new injectors since I put them in but I was having the same problem before I replaced the stock injectors, the factory ones I had in there were leaking a little so I put in 26lb accels and adjusted for the new injectors with a tune.
 

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I haven't checked the new injectors since I put them in but I was having the same problem before I replaced the stock injectors, the factory ones I had in there were leaking a little so I put in 26lb accels and adjusted for the new injectors with a tune.
I've heard Accels aren't so good, so maybe test them? I dont trust Accel stuff.
And funny enough, I just now found an old video on them that went on an LT1. They seem to have issues kind of like you are having.

Accel LT1 Injector Flow Tests:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBPbph720BM
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
ok thanks I will check that out, it can definitely be hit and miss with certain new parts
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I think I actually have the mystery solved, I will know tomorrow for sure when I can drive a little longer. Thanks to all who helped but especially cocobolo95 who brought up it could be battery/alternator. I replaced the battery after getting it load tested and the 700 cca battery was only putting out 10 cca!! It showed no signs of being bad except the data logging showed that the voltage was kinda low and it would go down the more I drove, but it started the car like a new battery. I will hopefully only put one more post up tomorrow confirming or not that it worked but it definitely did something positive!
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The new battery helped a lot but its not completely fixed, I will be getting my alternator checked because I think it is very weak. If it is then a new one should fix the rest of my problem because the battery made the fuel trim normal on bank 2 and bank one was at 154 now its between 130 and 140. I will know in a few days for sure but it seems like that will fix it the rest of the way.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ok so I put the battery in and it took 2/3rd's of the problem away, took the alternator out had it tested and they said it was strong so I cleaned the connections to the battery, alternator and the positive block on the fender along with cleaning the grounds. It still starts to lose battery power as I drive when watching the scan on my computer and the problem is still there just alot better with the new battery. Does anyone know what I should check that is robbing my electrical power??
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Cocobolo95, I received the email notification from when you explained how to test for power draw but it hasn't showed up here in the forum, so I can only read up to the point where you were explaining where to connect the leads from the multimeter. If you could explain that again I would really appreciate it, thanks again for all the help, I'm not sure what went wrong or if its only on my end.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I tested key off electric draw and it shows just over 200ma which should be fine, that means that it has to be something that only draws when the key is on. I really don't know what to do at this point and if I cant figure this out soon I will have to get rid of the car. I don't know how to narrow it down at this point but I don't want to get rid of the car when I have put so much into it and it has low miles so there should be a lot of life left in it. I also put a new, not rebuilt, GM alternator in it and no change while data logging so now I have 2 good alternators.
 

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Here's an old shade tree mechanic test. Have car running. start with under dash fuse box. Pull 1 fuse at a time and replace it before going to the next fuse.

Your looking for the voltage to go up to normal 13.5 to 14 volt level. Do all the fuses in under dash fuse box. Then head to the engine compartment fuse box. Again, pull one fuse at a time and see if voltage goes up to normal levels.

You will pull some fuses that will stop engine from running. Replace those type of fuses and start engine again.

Write the voltage you get for every fuse you pull. They are labeled. If top cover of engine compartment is missing, youll have to consult 94 service manual for fuse locations in fuse box.

One last long shot. I had an Italian car with chronic low voltage. It turns out that connector pins were corroded. I removed the corrosion from pins and voltage went up to normal.
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I want to try that but the problem I'm having is that it must lose voltage after the battery and alternator because when I test voltage at the alternator or battery or the distribution block on the fender, it reads what it should. I don't want to have my computer hooked up while pulling fuses just to read voltage, it may be a dumb question but can I get an accurate voltage read from the fuse panel inside the car with the multimeter when the car is running and I'm pulling fuses?
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I am getting .7 to .56 volts, depending on which fuse terminal I'm testing, on the non battery side of at least 2 fuses on the inside fuse panel. One is on the wiper/washer fuse and the other is for the interior lights. This is with the key off and I have more to check but it seems like a case of tracing wires to find out what hot wire is feeding them and that should fix the last problem I am having, hopefully I can hunt it down. When I test the battery side of the fuse it tests the same as the battery reads.
 
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