Advice please...used scotch brite pad by hand during a head install - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Advice please...used scotch brite pad by hand during a head install

I can't believe I had never heard of this, but I have read scotch brite usage can ruin an engine in only a few miles. I used a combination of a scraper, a wire wheel on a drill, and a scotch pad by hand to clean the head surfaces, intake surfaces, block, and somewhat the tops of the pistons. Used a vacuum cleaner to remove all of the debris I could see.I'm feeling pretty down after coming across a few articles linking scotch brite to engine failure. Should I not even bother reassembling and just have the engine rebuilt at this point? Is there also any way to clean out debris that may have gotten down between the piston and the cylinder wall or should I not worry about that? Any honest advice would be appreciated. Not feeling very confident about reassembling at this point. I have the oil pan off as well if that makes any difference.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:51 PM
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Since you've torn down engine that far, why not finish tearing it down. This includes removing cam bearings also. And tearing down cylinder heads.Take bare block & put it in your solvent tank, if you have one. Otherwise, take block & heads to machine shop and let them hot tank the block & heads.

Depending on how many miles on engine, you could get away with new gaskets & seals. Or if mileage high, new rings and bearings also. Cam bearings will need new ones as removing them damages them in many instances. Check clearance of main & rod bearings to see if they are worn beyond specs.

You will find the 95 service manual at the following link. It will have instructions on testing components & specs. My Files
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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I'm really just not read yo disassemble the engine that far. If I did take the block in to have it tanked, can I just remove the water pump and optispark and bring it in like that? Or do most machine shops expect it to be torn down further? Would I still have a problem with recontaminating the block after the scotch brite particles enter the tank even if they did tank it?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 07:10 AM
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Hot tank eats bearings up. That is why crankshaft, rods, pistons, and camshaft have to be removed. Along with main, rod, & cam bearings.

I don't know how scratched up your cylinder bores are. But if not too bad a quick honing will take care of problem. Then new piston rings. If bores scratched too deep for honing to fix, then a rebore is needed. Along with oversized pistons & rings.

If I may ask, why did you think you needed to pull heads and clean up piston tops and cylinder bores? Next time you pull heads, stuff oilly rags into cylinders to protect cylinders while you clean deck surface.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 08-05-2019 at 07:14 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Well my issue is I used a scotch pad during the gasket cleaning process and then I happened across a few articles stating engine failure due to the aluminum oxide particles that are left behind from the pad leading to engine failure in as little as a few hundred miles. The issue is not that the cylinders are scratched, but that the engine is now contaminated and according to some of the threads on this site and others, the engine has now been compromised and will inevitably eat up the bearings in short order.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 10:50 AM
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Since you didn't scratch up cylinders, and you have the oil pan off, here's what you can do. Usea cherry picker to raise engine up enough to remove all 8 piston and rod assemblies. Of course oil pump will have to be removed also. Disconnect driveshaft. Have pan under back of trans as fluid will come out. To get driveshaft off, torque arm must be unhooked from engine side.

Unhook exhaust manifolds from rest of exhaust system. Unhook engine & trans mounts. Unhook any wiring that will interfere with raising engine & trans. Lift engine & trans high enough to work on underside of engine. Use a punch to number piston & rod assembly. Match mark the rod and the cap so they will be installed correctly. Driver side of engine has cylinders 1, 3, 5 & 7. Passenger side has 2, 4, 6 & 8.

When you re install piston/rod assemblies a ring compressor will be needed. Get at harbor freight or auto parts store. Be sure to install them exactly where and how they were orientated when in engine.

With piston assemblies out of engine, you can wash down cylinder walls with mineral spirits. Was down crankshaft also. Wipe with a non fluffy rag. When you install piston assemblies, use assembly lube on cylinder walls, piston rings, & connecting rod bearing. Both on rod assembly & cap. Torque rod caps to specs found in service manual. Assemble rest of engine using torque specs.

Your only other alternative would be to assembly what you've already taken apart and HOPE FOR THE BEST.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 08-05-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 12:11 PM
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I forgot to add, next time you undertake a job like this, plug the oil return & coolant passage holes in block before working on gasket clean up.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 03:00 PM
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Thank God I only used a scraper, wire wheel, and plastic body work disk. Scotch brite sounds like it's caused more work than it's worth.

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