Oil Pan Removal - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Pan Removal

Working on my automatic '95 Trans Am (LT1) to replace the oil pan gasket because I had to replace my leaking timing cover gasket. I've read what feels like all of the threads on removing the oil pan but still can't get the dang pan removed.

What I've done and where I'm at:
- Car is lifted on ramps
- Long engine mount bolts removed, as well as trans mount nut
- Engine lifted with jack under transfer case
- 6 Outer K-member/subframe bolts holding by a few threads, inner nuts completely removed
- Starter removed
..... essentially all that the forums suggest is required to complete the job

I can't get the pan out! I tried using a pry bar (carefully) and extra set of hands to lift the front of the motor but still can't get the clearance. From what I've seen, the pan doesn't drop low enough on the back side to clear the fly wheel and I'm just at a loss at what to do next.

I'm thinking using the center nuts to hold the Kmember instead of the outer bolts, but am not sure if thats the safest way, or even safe at all.

Unfortunately I do not have access to an engine hoist as most people have suggested make the job easier, although many say the job is very doable using a jack. I've snapped the exhaust pipe/manifold seal studs and am just frustrated at this point. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.

-Miro
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 05:34 AM
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Time to invest in a cherry picker. Or if you have a sturdy tree limb or swing set, a chain type hoist will do the job. Both available at harbor freight. Don't get the cheapest cherry picker. It's arm is too short for the job.

Look at the purchase of a cherry picker as an investment. If you had taken car to a shop, the bill would be higher than your parts and cherry picker cost.

Your engine needs to go up higher to get the pan off. The oil pump pickup tube is another thing that will make pan hard to remove.

I don't recommend messing with the k-member. This is because you don't have the proper tools to re install it once lowered.

And tighten those k-member fasteners back up. That way your jack is supporting the engine/trans and not the k-member.

One way to get engine/trans to go higher is to remove torque arm from trans and remove driveshaft. at rear end. When you lift eng/trans. make sure driveshaft doesn't slip out of trans. If it does, you'll lose a bunch of fluid. When you remove torque arm, be advised that it will spring up and rest on chassis.

And when you remove driveshaft from rear end, make sure the bearing caps of u-joint don't fall off. I use 11 inch long plastic wire tie. I put it around the 2 bearing caps on the u-joint, that are exposed, then pull it as tight as I can. If one 11 inch wire tie is not long enough to go around the bearing caps, use a 2nd one attached to the 1st one. Then wrap u-joint with a gallon size slider bag to keep it clean.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 06-28-2019 at 06:00 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 06:13 AM
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Some people manage to fish the gasket in the pan and around the oil pump pickup when they can't get the pan completely off.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocobolo95 View Post
Time to invest in a cherry picker. Or if you have a sturdy tree limb or swing set, a chain type hoist will do the job. Both available at harbor freight. Don't get the cheapest cherry picker. It's arm is too short for the job.

Look at the purchase of a cherry picker as an investment. If you had taken car to a shop, the bill would be higher than your parts and cherry picker cost.

Your engine needs to go up higher to get the pan off. The oil pump pickup tube is another thing that will make pan hard to remove.

I don't recommend messing with the k-member. This is because you don't have the proper tools to re install it once lowered.

And tighten those k-member fasteners back up. That way your jack is supporting the engine/trans and not the k-member.

One way to get engine/trans to go higher is to remove torque arm from trans and remove driveshaft. at rear end. When you lift eng/trans. make sure driveshaft doesn't slip out of trans. If it does, you'll lose a bunch of fluid. When you remove torque arm, be advised that it will spring up and rest on chassis.

And when you remove driveshaft from rear end, make sure the bearing caps of u-joint don't fall off. I use 11 inch long plastic wire tie. I put it around the 2 bearing caps on the u-joint, that are exposed, then pull it as tight as I can. If one 11 inch wire tie is not long enough to go around the bearing caps, use a 2nd one attached to the 1st one. Then wrap u-joint with a gallon size slider bag to keep it clean.

The Kmember is not being supported by the Jack, its being essentially hung by the outer bolts that I loosened up. I have no intentions of completely dropping the kmember as I know I do not have the equipment to put it back up. I'm really trying to avoid spending anymore money on doing this as I'm a self supporting fulltime college student and this car is all I got. Thank you for your insight though. If I can't get it out I guess my only choice will be to spend the money.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebox View Post
Some people manage to fish the gasket in the pan and around the oil pump pickup when they can't get the pan completely off.
I've heard of this being done as well, but I've also seen many suggestions not to throw a dry gasket back onto the car, even though its what is suggested. I obviously don't want to redo this job, so I want to do everything as sure-thing the first time around.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 07:15 AM
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Sometimes the position of the throws on the crank will not allow the front of the pan to clear. If that is the case, rotate the engine until the front throws are in a more upward position.
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