I turned the engine over with a ratchet when I was adjusting the valves, so I know the engine will rotate. Keep in mind, it started on the first chug before I tore it down. It had a blown head gasket, but it would start on the first chug. So that isn't the issue.
I'm just trying to figure out if the VATS went bad while the car sat for a couple of months with the battery unhooked, or if the starter went bad. The VATS is funny because I did the bypass and it worked a few months ago. If it wasn't for the security light actin weird... It goes off if I leave the key in the on position long enough, but still doesn't crank. But then when I remove the key, it stays on. Everything I know about VATS is that when it's bad, the light stays on. Always. And then when it goes off, it should work. So it's acting peculiar. It shouldn't need time to re-learn the new resistors I put in because that's not how this system works.
Since the starter is so hard to get to, testing it by running a wire to it won't be easy. So my next step should be to find the TDR and bypass it by grounding the wire. If that lets it crank, I can hook up my injector testers to see if they're getting pulse. If it cranks then, but no pules is getting to the injectors, I'll know the VATS went kaput.
I've used a bakerelectronix box before on a 1992 Buick Park Avenue that lost it's VATS. I was actually able to remove the pass-key module and put the baker box in it's place. I found the hot, ground, signal, and DTR activation wire and hooked everything up. I hooked the ground wire to the baker box and the DTR ( thus activating it ), and the hot and signal wires hooked up to the baker box. It worked perfectly. I didn't have to mess with the DTR at all. Now if only I can find all those wires ( and the pass key module ) on this Camaro, I'll be in business.