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Urgent help with harmonic balancer removal

6K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  frankmolinas 
#1 · (Edited)
I have been working all day on removing my dam harmonic balancer pulley and camshaft hub and for the first 5 hours didn't get anywhere i got a kit from o'reilly thats a rental used specifically for removing this pulley so i used that and finally got it moving out but now it will not let me pull it out any further and i literally have like only another half inch to pull out. what should i do stop by napa and get the same thread bolt just longer so ill have more room to pull or go to oriellys and get a two claw puller and use that????????????????? all this ****ing work for a small oil leak and a 6 dollar seal :angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry:

below is a picture of how far i have gotten i can no longer pull it im pretty sure i just need a longer bolt in there plz help asap so i dont have to take this thing to the shop...................
http://tinypic.com/r/ev9q3c/9
 
#2 ·
I'm not sure what is happening here. Is the puller topped-out and there's no more thread to pull it off? Are the bolts running from the balancer to the tool turned all the way down? If so, that's an easy fix. Just get a 3/8 socket that's bigger than the bolt-hole and smaller than the ID of the crank-snout hole and stuff it in the balancer hole. Make sure this socket is much larger than the balancer-bolt - you don't want this thing dipping into the hole and screwing up the threads) Then take the balancer removal tool and ensure its seated against the square hole on the socket and crank away. Using a socket like this will give you another 2" or so of pull. I have the Kent Moore tool and I have to use a socket to get my balancer all the way off (even with the puller bolts all the way turned-in). Its not an uncommon issue.
 
#4 ·
OP

if you are using one of those loan a tool star pullers with the center large threaded rod pushing against the crank bolt head that you have already backed out some to pull the hub as far as it is now....you need to use a longer bolt with same thread size to give you more travel to get the hub off

If you unscrew the stock crank bolt out it does not have enough length to it still leaving at least 1/2" of it still threaded in the crank. You really don't want any less than a 1/2" into crank as you can strip the crank threads

I also have the kent Moore LT1 tool and it has a rod designed to push against the end of the crank without hitting the threads so it is plug & play but if you are using one of those star type pullers pushing against the partially backed out center crank bolt head you need to use a longer donor bolt to get it off to allow enough travel.

or use a socket as described on shbox site.
 
#5 ·
Go get a "Bear claw puller" . Easiest way.
 
#8 ·
Never had a problem this way.
 
#9 ·
Got it off using a long thin bolt got a 3/16 bolt I think it was ground the threads off of it it was a lot longer get so once I stuck it in there it pulled right off. Thank God I figured this out because I have to take it off again because it turns out my oil leak wasn't coming from the main seal but higher up because it's still leaking and that seal is dry so I'll be removing my opti and water pump this weekend they both have lifetime warranty so I'll swap em out while I have them off.....
 
#11 ·
That's the thing my damper wont come off the hub I had to pull it off as one unit it's an underdrive pulley and that sucker is stuck on there I didn't bother to separate the two since it was just going back on but I guess I should of since I wouldn't have to take the whole hub off again....
 
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