Can't get air injection tube from exhaust manifold - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Can't get air injection tube from exhaust manifold

So as the title states I cant get the injection tube out. The nut is locked and seems to be somewhat warped from someone else. Is there any way to get it off without cutting the injection line? I've tried a C wrench and it won't budge. I am trying to get to the valve cover to determine TDC. I took off my harmonic balancer without lining it up (I know stupid). So i need some sort of solution unless there is an easier way to find TDC #1 compression?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 10:45 AM
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You can temporarily put your hub & balancer back on. Remove #1 cylinder spark plug. Turn crankshaft until you feel compression from the spark plug hole. I use a small screw driver to feel when piston reaches approximately tdc.

Remove hub & balance on engines that have timing marks. On lt1, since optispark position determines firing order, you can actually put hub & balancer on in any position. As long as opti is indexed correctly and spark plug wires installed on correct cylinders, car's computer will fire the cylinders at the correct time.

If you separated the balancer from the crank hub, it will only go on 1 way.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 07-17-2016 at 10:48 AM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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So the balancer isn't heavier on one side or something? Won't run rough or wrong if I randomly put it back on? I can't find tdc compression without valve cover off because it could be the exhaust stroke or compression stroke
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 10:38 PM
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It is not a balancer. It is a torsion dampener. When your crank is in this position, put the hub on with the raised mark at 12 o'clock. Doesn't matter it it's 1 or 6 TDC.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Forgive me for being newbie. I currently have my timing cover on and opti installed. Are you saying I need to take the timing cover off? If so is it difficult to remove and reinstall timing cover? Sorry if I am being a pain
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 07:08 AM
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No, timing cover does not have to come off. Just make sure #1 cylinder is at tdc using the feeler in the #1 spark plug hole method.

Then as shoebox said, install crank hub so arm with raised mark will be at 12 o'clock position. Then put damper on. It will only go on one way.

Because of the way opti drive is designed, when installed correctly, it will fire cylinders in correct order.

In case you don't know which cylinder is #1, its the front cylinder on driver side of car.

Here's a diagram of spark plug wire attachment to opti.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. So it doesn't matter if it is on the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke? Just as long as its tdc? Every video and post I've seen say it needs to be on the compression stroke. And it seems the only way to tell is by taking off the valve cover or timing cover.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc1984 View Post
Forgive me for being newbie. I currently have my timing cover on and opti installed. Are you saying I need to take the timing cover off? If so is it difficult to remove and reinstall timing cover? Sorry if I am being a pain
Look at the position of the crank key. That tells you where it is. Nothing needs to come off.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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This is going to sound stupid but what is a crank key?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. I think I understand now. I talked to a coworker and didn't realize the exhaust stroke didn't compress. Now that I know that I can find TDC knowing that if I stick my finger over the hole and feel compression I am getting close to TDC
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
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Ok. I think I understand now. I talked to a coworker and didn't realize the exhaust stroke didn't compress. Now that I know that I can find TDC knowing that if I stick my finger over the hole and feel compression I am getting close to TDC
Erm... Look at this first. There is most definitely a compression stroke on the exhaust. Sticking your finger (or a small wooden dowel) in the plug-hole will tell you if you're getting TDC, it just won't tell you if its compression or exhaust TDC.

Also, is there a reason you're ignoring the excellent input offered by Cocobolo and Shoebox? They've both told you how to re-install the dampner without worrying about TDC
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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apologize. I think the problem is you guys are giving me more credit than I deserve as far as knowledge. So from what I read I just need to find TDC and whether it's compression or exhaust is irrelevent as long as its TDC? If so I am good to go. If not, I believe I just need to know what a crank key is so I can find it and get the correct placement. I hope I got one of those 2 right :/
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 01:46 PM
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Did you take the hub off (usually requires a puller) or undo the three bolts from the hub and took off the dampener? If just the dampener and the hub is still on the crank, just bolt it on and call it a day. If the hub and the dampener are off as one unit, take the dampener off the hub and install the hub according to the image Shoebox posted above. If this is beyond you, take it somewhere that can do the job correctly.

Last edited by AtlantaDan; 07-18-2016 at 01:49 PM.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hub and damper were taken off together. Didn't know they were 2 seperate pieces at the time sine they were stuck together. I have it back on at the moment but can easily pull it back of again
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 01:53 PM
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How did you get it off and how do you plan on re-installing the hub? Done incorrectly, it will screw up the threads in the crank. Pounding the hub back on can also potentially damage your crank bearings. You will be able to see the crank key once the hub is off. its a slit cut into the crank, with a piece of metal stuck into it. It keeps the timing gear locked into position.

Rotate the crank until the keyway is like the picture Sheobox posted, and then put the hub on with the "arrow" pointing straight up.

Last edited by AtlantaDan; 07-18-2016 at 01:55 PM.
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