Harmonic Balacer won't go on - Page 2 - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Im tempted to buy a extra long 7/16-20 bolt and try to get it going far enough for the tool to catch. Is that a terrible idea? Obviously don't want to force it in at an angle or screw up the threads, but unless something doesnt look right from the pictures I am out of ideas
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:06 AM
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Depends on how long the bolt is and it should be grade 8. Some threaded rod would work better
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so this isnt a retarded idea? lol I tried a little bit of the emery cloth and didnt seem to make any difference but I didnt use it for long being paranoid.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:56 AM
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Ok so this isnt a retarded idea? lol I tried a little bit of the emery cloth and didnt seem to make any difference but I didnt use it for long being paranoid.
The emery cloth was to be used on the crank hub once you got the balancer and hub apart - not the crank snout.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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If by crank hub you mean the 3 bolt unit that attaches to the harmonic balancer then yes. Did not touch the main crank since I'm sure it makes my job 100x worse if I screwed it up. The only thing I can think of is if the puller somehow bent it if it wasn't coming off straight. Or I an idiot and that's as far as it is supposed to fit by hand. Any input is appreciated
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Found a grad 5 bolt at home depot. Will that suffice to get it going to where the install tool can take over. Or is it too weak even to do that?
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 08:24 PM
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Grade 8 threaded rod is all I would use.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
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Found a grad 5 bolt at home depot. Will that suffice to get it going to where the install tool can take over. Or is it too weak even to do that?
Some stud bar would be better than a bolt.
A bolt will pull on/distort the crank threads as you wind it in...

If you use a length of stud bar, wind it into the crank threads as far as it will go so you have contact with ALL the crank thread not just the first inch. It doesn't need to be tight onto the crank itself.
Stack washers & nut behind the hub to spread load and wind the hub on using the nut.
Any distortion of the threads will affect the stud & not the crank thread.

Check the crank & hub that you can feel there are no burrs anywhere.

HTH
Mitch
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 07:01 AM
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On the 1st pic you uploaded in post # 15, it looks like you have some bad spots on inside of hub that need to be smoothed out. They're right at the top.
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-14-2016, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your help. I wasn't getting anywhere and decided to throw caution to the wind and grabbed a grade 5 long bolt and threw on a bunch of washers. Went on like a dream, though switched to stock bolt when it started to get difficult. I didnt want to strip the threads with the grade 5. So I guess the POS installer tool is useless. Even with it 90% on it still wouldn't catch. Once again thank you. Now for part 2 of my stupidity. I took off the harmonic balancer when it wasn't centered with the notch. At the time I was flying blind and didn't know I was supposed to do that or what timing was...now I do after finding out the hard way. Anyways, the easiest method (idiot proof) I've seen is to use a stop tool to find TDC. Tried taking off the valve cover and couldn't get it off because of the air pump. Can you buy these at a brick and mortar store? I've looked everywhere and they either don't carry it or have to special order. Even Amazon won't get here till Monday and trying to knock this out over the weekend if possible
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