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Old 11-10-2009, 03:13 AM   #46
2fast4u88
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I see your point but 6psi from a procharger or vortech. Unless you go with a hudge one. Should be no problem for a pure stock motor. Mine was to begin with. Bone stock with a procharger. Fmu, 24lb svo injectors, msd 6btm, and a booster pump. But the guy never installed a wide band or fuel gauge. If he did the factory motor might have still been fine.

If you get the ignition, tune, injectors, and fuel pump. Along with a wideband and fuel guage. You will be fine till you get another motor built. Or save for it atleast. I don't see someone putting 30k miles on something like that in a year. If you did then well. Better start saving right away.

With 6psi you should be able to get 380 to 440whp. Which the stock bottom end can hold. Just the pistons aren't ideal for nitrous let alone boost. If the tune is perfect though with out detonation you will be fine. Either way I've seen 450whp to almost 550whp on the stock bottom end. From nitrous to boost. Above 450whp though is really pushing it.

For a turbo it would depend on the size. As a bigger one. Most of the time makes more power on the same psi as a small one.

Everyone has there opinion though... Along with 100hp on top of stock is a good bit. I would rather get use to that first. Then get more out of it. Instead of going to like 200whp+ overstock. Then not respect the power or expect it and kill yourself.

Edit: Sorry if something is misspelled or of grammer is off. Typing in the dark. lol
O and where has craz been. Haven't seen him post for a few days now. Most of time he is blowing up the forum.
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1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top,Lowered 1.5in. on B&R Springs,6pt. Subframe Connectors,Pro 5.0 short throw,K&n Cold Air Intake,2 1/2 Cowl industion hood,Ws6 Wheels,Cc502 cam,No Emissions, Descreened Maf,Tb Air Foil,1.6 Roller Rockers, Professional Products Sfi approved balancer with Steel Keyed Hub,New Opti,Msd 8.5 wires,Ngk tr55ix plugs,Pacesetter Longtube Race Headers, ORY & Flowmaster Catback

Last edited by 2fast4u88; 11-10-2009 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:21 AM   #47
BLACK HAWK
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why put the hours of labor and cost into puttting a turbo or supercharger on, just to take it off then back on again to build the motor later down the road over building the motor first. just seams like a lot less work in the long run if to me. unless you enjoy all that extra time under the hood over time on the road... i guess i'm just thinking big power builds since i'm shooting to break the 600 mark this summer... over all i'd rather have a nasty stroker motor then stock
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Last edited by BLACK HAWK; 11-10-2009 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:19 AM   #48
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bookmarked and b back l8er,i need more info, :-)
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:22 AM   #49
2fast4u88
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As i said some people look at it different. Which ever way will work. And wouldn't be much more work to pull the motor after the stuff is installed. Either way it will be down.

I guess it comes down to what you want at the time.
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1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top,Lowered 1.5in. on B&R Springs,6pt. Subframe Connectors,Pro 5.0 short throw,K&n Cold Air Intake,2 1/2 Cowl industion hood,Ws6 Wheels,Cc502 cam,No Emissions, Descreened Maf,Tb Air Foil,1.6 Roller Rockers, Professional Products Sfi approved balancer with Steel Keyed Hub,New Opti,Msd 8.5 wires,Ngk tr55ix plugs,Pacesetter Longtube Race Headers, ORY & Flowmaster Catback
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