running wires for amplifier to subs.

1994purplez28 · 11-01-2009, 10:34 PM

where is the easier spot to get the power wire through the firewall? run down the trans tunnel or door sills? will stock alternator support 1000 watts rms? any hel[p is apreciated

dilatedpeoples28 · 11-01-2009, 11:03 PM

run it right from down the passenger side from the battery, theres a hole in the firewall behind the pcm, and then just run it down the passenger side to the back were I assume your amp is. I am pulling over 1000watts rms on my stock alternator. But like anything thing if you beat on it, it will fail faster.

1994purplez28 · 11-01-2009, 11:10 PM

well i will pull more too but i was going to maybe keep the gain at only 3/4 just to ease the alternator strain. ive got a power acoustik bamf 4000/1 and an Orion 10.4 hcca that can hand;le 1500 watts rms at 2 ohms which i have it wired to. the amp pushes a little over 2000 rms at 2 ohms so i think 3/4 will be around 1500 or so and the sub will handle that easy. where did you mount your amp. my 10 is just going to sit on the back seat.

dilatedpeoples28 · 11-01-2009, 11:22 PM

i have an amp rack that fit against the back wall of the ttop area. I have my mono amp and 4 channel both mounted there.

1994purplez28 · 11-02-2009, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dilatedpeoples28

i have an amp rack that fit against the back wall of the ttop area. I have my mono amp and 4 channel both mounted there.

can you still fit the ttops there with the amp in place?

dilatedpeoples28 · 11-02-2009, 09:49 AM

yep they fit fine

1994purplez28 · 11-02-2009, 10:10 AM

what did you attach your amp rack to?

2fast4u88 · 11-04-2009, 04:45 PM

Um you want to hook the power wire to the battery. Not that little terminal thing. Then drill a hole in the firewall and use a grommet.

Stock alternator will not take more than around 700watts rms. Unless you do the big 3. Run power wire down the right side of car. Audio jack cables down the left side or middle. Trying to stay away from the hot wire.

Amps go down in the trunk in front of the t-top holders. Either use 1/2-3/4 mdf or other wood. Put it behind the carpet and bolt it down. Then mount the amp to that. The cheapest and most effective way to do it. But I made my amp rack out of steel. Drilled holes and use rubber washers to mount it. It is also mounted in front of t-top holder.

awizeking · 11-04-2009, 04:48 PM

i ran 1,200+ watts on my stock alt. but i was also running a ferrit cap.

2fast4u88 · 11-06-2009, 01:09 AM

Did you do the big 3 then? As in change out or add on too the stock ground and hot wires with bigger? Because around 600-800watts depending on the amp. Mainly a 2 channel your volt gauge will drop to around 10volts and you get the blinking lights.

3 of the f-body's that had systems did it around that wattage. If using a monoblock with better effiency you can draw more power before you get the problems.

Caps don't help with high current loads when the wire can supply it. Or the alternator. It will hold a charge for the longer bass hits or shorter ones. Which will make it look like the electrical is doing fine.

When in turn you are creating more of a electrical load making the alternator work harder than with out one.

Toxicta · 11-06-2009, 08:44 AM

I have done a few of these and once you start running a lot of power to multiple amps AKA more than 1000 watts RMS. It is best to drop a second battery in the back and run 0 gauge from the front to the back. Dual terminal battery in the front and back. Side post terminals to the car, top post positive fused close to the battery, like I mentioned 0 gauge to the top post of the back battery also fused before the battery. Then ground the back battery to the rear seat belt hold down 0 gauge. Run your amps off the side posts using studs. The benefit you have is when you are really working the system you are working off the back battery and not overloading the alt. I run 3000 watts RMS and when it is cranked I have 0 issues with lights flicker or volt gauge jumping. I am running a total of 3 batteries for that kind of wattage.

awizeking · 11-06-2009, 09:07 AM

i ran two 900 watts RMS mono block amps, an one 300 watt 2 channel amp with a 1 1/2 farrit cap. i ran two seprate power cables from the battery, one eight gauge just for my deck an front speakers, an a 4 gauge from the battery to the cap then amps. my cap had a LED voltage display an it never droped passed 10.5-11.0 volts an that was at idle. i never had any problems with low voltage when driving an blasting the music, the only time my light would dim when i was at an idle.

1994purplez28 · 11-06-2009, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awizeking

i ran two 900 watts RMS mono block amps, an one 300 watt 2 channel amp with a 1 1/2 farrit cap. i ran two seprate power cables from the battery, one eight gauge just for my deck an front speakers, an a 4 gauge from the battery to the cap then amps. my cap had a LED voltage display an it never droped passed 10.5-11.0 volts an that was at idle. i never had any problems with low voltage when driving an blasting the music, the only time my light would dim when i was at an idle.

i have 1 2200 watt rms mono amp to one orion hcca sub. im planning on a 3 farrad cap to assist power wise.

awizeking · 11-06-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1994purplez28

i have 1 2200 watt rms mono amp to one orion hcca sub. im planning on a 3 farrad cap to assist power wise.

i would also run a 0 gauge wire. if your gonna run more then one amp i would also suggest a distribution block, they make it soo much friendly on your fuzes.

2fast4u88 · 11-06-2009, 09:08 PM

They will dim when dropping below 11volts. But the cap will make it look like it isn't. Because they will stay dim from the cap needing to recharge. By then the bass will hit agian. Cap really doesn't do anything when the electrical isn't up to the task. Do they help yea a little. At idle in the one t/a and my dd with right around 1200watts rms. The voltage stayed right at 11.2 to 11.7 when thumping at idle. That is only with 4 gauge big 3 and 4 gauge power wire.

Either way a cap is somewhat like a banaid to the whole system. It helps keep the voltage up on a bass hit. But then has to recharge. Which a cap is more less a battery. Just like running 2 batterys.

What kind of amp is the 2200watt? If it is only 1200watts at the load you want then a good 4 gauge wiring kit will be just fine.