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Old 12-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #1
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Default 95 camaro starter tune

ive got a 95 lt1 with a 94 PCM in it.... 4l60e.. mods:

3.42 rear, LT's , CatBack exhaust... cold air intake and 160*stat.. anybody have a tune file i can start playing with?
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:40 PM   #2
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Here is a good start LT1 PCM Tuning - Tips & Tricks for DIY Tuning! .. Can't count the number of times I have referred to Solomon's write-up, and then gone back to re-read some points. Let us know what software you will be using to tune, and what software you will be using to log the car. Makes it easier to identify the things to change as not all tuning s/w is the same. Understanding Short term & Long Term BLM operation and BLM cells is critical to tuning. Many here will help answer your questions..

To start with a good rule before each change, read the current tune, rename to date saved, and then mark it as READ ONLY . That way you can always go back if you mess up the new tune. ALSO when writing to the PCM never, never interrupt a code load due to PC battery failure, anti virus kicking in , etc. it WILL corrupt the BIOS program on the PCM and render it useless.. I run my laptop from AC power when loading code and I use a 120 watt inverter for laptop AC power when tuning on the road, it's an old w/95 machine I use only for tuning. No AV, Network, or software updates..I use a USB to USB setup to transfer logs and tunes to my desktop for backup. The available OBD1 tuning S/W is so old it'll run on almost any windows/95 laptop you can find on ebay or craigslist.
Are you already tuned for the 3.42's and 160* T-Stat ? Prior to changing anything for CAI and LT's you need to log the car and see how BLM's look, if they are out in specific BLM cells then MAF tuning or cylinder trimming (idle/off idle) may be required, if out in all cells the you have problem that needs fixing. Then decide if you want to run 91 octane forever, if so you can start tweaking timing. Again the logging s/w is needed through the process to verify the changes are working positively. If idle is incorrect you will bog when you nail the throttle. Doing the fan temp and speedometer tuning is a good basic start that won't hurt anything, many here could help you through that. As you read Solomon's site notice the sequence that s/b followed. First idle speed, timing, AFR, IAC, then cruising AFR, timing, then performance. As I added mods I constantly monitored BLM's after each step and tweaked MAF and cylinder trims as needed to correct any AFR changes caused by the mods. My tunes are so customized to my personal preferences that don't send any tunes out as. It's better to do the tuning on your car to your preferences...
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:50 PM   #3
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Bob, just curious why do you recomend MAF tuning? I'm still on stock MAF tables and the throttle response is amazing even with the bigger cam. I've had better luck adjusting injector related tables. Not questioning your ablilty just curious.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:02 PM   #4
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Im using tuner cats and loggin it with free scan
I have a tune on my car to help the fuel mileage.... But i want to start over as my car only gives me about 200kms on a tank... Stock tune was better.... Bob i see u have a similar set up like mine. Except i dont have a cam and rr and a aftermarket stall... Guess once u find an old tune... I can start from there

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Old 12-05-2012, 04:02 PM   #5
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Mystery, I'm running stock injectors (top DC about 75%) and after I installed my cam, and altered the BLM cell boundries to fit the new RPM/MAP. I found using Datamaster Histogram for a few logging cycles that my lower engine load , BLM cells 0-4 were on the pink (richer) side and as I moved up in engine load the cells went white (normal) then moved towards the green (lean) to where cell 15 was averaging low 130's. BLM cell 16 was almost red in the 115's. Since I was not rich OR lean across the board, I ruled out fueling (pump/injectors), O2's or a sensor failure. I agree w/you, I would not recommend changing MAF or cylinder trims if BLM cells are consistent is one direction. That's usually fixed by a general fueling management adjustment. In my case I dropped the individual cylinder fuel trim multipliers for idle a couple of percent for all cylinders, and dropped the off idle trims (3%-14.7% TPS) a bit less. Then added a percent or so to the high AFGS MAF table. Re-logged and then additionally dropped low AFGS MAF table cells just a little bit on the pink cells. Back then I was trying to understand why the cam and RR's caused it.. somehow the burn got dirtier at the low end and more efficient at the higher end. I'm running stock heads, so maybe there's was not ample air flow at the higher MAP, my idle is 700 RPM, MAP around 49. Or could be the burn efficiency at low end changed w/the increased cam overlap (214/228 112 LSA). Been meaning to do a VE tune some day, to see how far off it is, but it's low in my priorities right now, probably get bitten if my MAS dies on me some day and PCM reverts to SD. That's a reason I stated to OP, if anyone loaded my tune they would probably run crappier than before they started.
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:36 PM   #6
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Did you ever try adding a bit of timing in the rich areas? Sorry, guess we/I shouldn't be thread jacking.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:43 PM   #7
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Bob can u post ur tune file?

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Old 12-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #8
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Bob?
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:10 PM   #9
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95ltx, I found one of my old .bin files prior to my cam install with 160* T-Stat, 3.42 rear, CAI. It has EGR enabled as I was still running stock exhaust manifolds at that time. If you have EGR off w/your LT's set the EGR disable low and high RPM thresholds to '0' and the EGR enable low and high thresholds to '0'. That will shut of EGR activation, DTC's and stop any EGR timing advance.
PM me with your email address to send it to.
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