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01-23-2013, 08:29 PM
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#1
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 7
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LT1 Clutch Issues
hey i am new to this so bare with me lol but i have a 93 firebird formula with the lt1/6 speed an lately ive been noticing my clutch has been feeling different. when i left off the clutch its comes back very easy, and pushing it down is almost effortless. This is my first manual car and its kind of hard to explain what its doing. The car also seems slower, and the car doesnt move til im about all the way out of the pedal. If you could help me thatd be awesome. I'm not sure if the clutch is done or what. HELP!!
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01-23-2013, 09:44 PM
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#2
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: McDonough, GA
Posts: 557
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LT1 Clutch Issues
A spongy clutch pedal is usually caused by air in the hydraulic system or it could be just an excessively worn friction plate.
I would start by bleeding the system. Once that's done, if the problem persists, check the travel of the clutch fork by removing the flywheel cover plate and have someone press the clutch pedal to the floor. If travel is at least 11mm (0.43"), the problem is not with the pedal or hydraulic system.
__________________
1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway
Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals
Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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01-23-2013, 09:56 PM
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#3
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 7
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Thanks. I will try that this weekend! Didn't know if I was going to have to replace the clutch or not. I figured Id get on here an ask before I did so.
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01-23-2013, 10:09 PM
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#4
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: McDonough, GA
Posts: 557
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LT1 Clutch Issues
I got my fingers crossed for you that it's that simple!
__________________
1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway
Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals
Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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01-24-2013, 11:41 AM
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#5
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 7
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Oh me too lol
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01-24-2013, 02:20 PM
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#6
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Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 382
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if the 93 is like the 94-97 T56/LT1 the "inspection plate" will not reveal the clutch fork or hydraulics. It is a "dust cover" for the FW.
If the pedal feels spongy it may be weak hydraulics. Usually hard shifts because clutch is not disengageing all the way result
does the car creep forward while in gear but with pedel pushed in?
if so hydraulics would be something to check
usually a worn clutch has a pedal engagement right at the top of the pedal vs mid pedal
there could be other issues going on or the clutch is simple going out.
the hydraulic system on LT 1 pull clutches are sealed and not designed to bleed. You can by removing slave from trany and pump the piston by hand as a friend watches the MC for bubbles coming out. If bubbles and you need to add fluid this may resolve for a period but would suggest there is a slow leak in the system. Replacement hydraulic are available for around $125
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01-24-2013, 03:11 PM
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#7
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: McDonough, GA
Posts: 557
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LT1 Clutch Issues
Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS
if the 93 is like the 94-97 T56/LT1 the "inspection plate" will not reveal the clutch fork or hydraulics. It is a "dust cover" for the FW.
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There is over 1/2" clearance between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing where the back of the fork is accessible to check travel. This can be done with a dial indicator with an extended tip installed, but since the measurement isn't critical anything rigid can be held against the back of the fork and a rough measurement made. No difference in the '93-'97 T56's.
__________________
1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway
Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals
Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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01-24-2013, 05:12 PM
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#8
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Delphi, IN
Posts: 7
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No it doesn't creep forward at all. It use to move right when you started to let off the pedal but now it starts going like right before te pedal is all the way at the end. I think it's not disengaging all the way..but I don't know much about manuals.
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01-28-2013, 10:31 AM
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#9
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Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 Firehawk
There is over 1/2" clearance between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing where the back of the fork is accessible to check travel. .
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I stand corrected sir. yes you can "see" the fork if you pull the dust cover. Removing oil filter would allow better access also.
in the front view pic you can see the oil filter on DS through the bellhousing without dust shielld on. looks like you could at least see fork movement with hydraulics installed
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01-30-2013, 01:55 PM
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#10
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: McDonough, GA
Posts: 557
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LT1 Clutch Issues
Yeah, most don't think to check from the cover plate side because it's not obvious that you can see it and get rough measurements of fork travel through there. But it's the only way I know of to check for proper hydraulic movement with everything still intact.
__________________
1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway
Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals
Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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01-30-2013, 02:40 PM
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#11
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Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: UK Enland
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecm94
Thanks. I will try that this weekend! Didn't know if I was going to have to replace the clutch or not. I figured Id get on here an ask before I did so.
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What sort of mileage is on the clutch.
My 95 Z28 has 49k & Me for the last 10k. On pulling the motor & Tranny the friction plate is just showing signs of wear on the rivets on both sides.
Hohum More money.
__________________
Terminal Crazy
'95 Z28 M6
Lancashire England
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02-21-2013, 11:51 AM
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#12
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Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey(sadly)
Posts: 545
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I had like a 140k on my factory clutch, and it had plenty of life left.
I would check your hydraulics and reservoir.
__________________
-95 Camaro Z28-6spd,135k miles
-Too many bikes to list.
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