Question LT1 Clutch Issues - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

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Old 01-23-2013, 08:29 PM   #1
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Default LT1 Clutch Issues

hey i am new to this so bare with me lol but i have a 93 firebird formula with the lt1/6 speed an lately ive been noticing my clutch has been feeling different. when i left off the clutch its comes back very easy, and pushing it down is almost effortless. This is my first manual car and its kind of hard to explain what its doing. The car also seems slower, and the car doesnt move til im about all the way out of the pedal. If you could help me thatd be awesome. I'm not sure if the clutch is done or what. HELP!!
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:44 PM   #2
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Default LT1 Clutch Issues

A spongy clutch pedal is usually caused by air in the hydraulic system or it could be just an excessively worn friction plate.

I would start by bleeding the system. Once that's done, if the problem persists, check the travel of the clutch fork by removing the flywheel cover plate and have someone press the clutch pedal to the floor. If travel is at least 11mm (0.43"), the problem is not with the pedal or hydraulic system.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:56 PM   #3
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Thanks. I will try that this weekend! Didn't know if I was going to have to replace the clutch or not. I figured Id get on here an ask before I did so.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:09 PM   #4
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Default LT1 Clutch Issues

I got my fingers crossed for you that it's that simple!
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1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:41 AM   #5
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Oh me too lol
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:20 PM   #6
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if the 93 is like the 94-97 T56/LT1 the "inspection plate" will not reveal the clutch fork or hydraulics. It is a "dust cover" for the FW.

If the pedal feels spongy it may be weak hydraulics. Usually hard shifts because clutch is not disengageing all the way result

does the car creep forward while in gear but with pedel pushed in?

if so hydraulics would be something to check

usually a worn clutch has a pedal engagement right at the top of the pedal vs mid pedal

there could be other issues going on or the clutch is simple going out.

the hydraulic system on LT 1 pull clutches are sealed and not designed to bleed. You can by removing slave from trany and pump the piston by hand as a friend watches the MC for bubbles coming out. If bubbles and you need to add fluid this may resolve for a period but would suggest there is a slow leak in the system. Replacement hydraulic are available for around $125
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:11 PM   #7
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Default LT1 Clutch Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
if the 93 is like the 94-97 T56/LT1 the "inspection plate" will not reveal the clutch fork or hydraulics. It is a "dust cover" for the FW.
There is over 1/2" clearance between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing where the back of the fork is accessible to check travel. This can be done with a dial indicator with an extended tip installed, but since the measurement isn't critical anything rigid can be held against the back of the fork and a rough measurement made. No difference in the '93-'97 T56's.
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1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

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Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #8
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No it doesn't creep forward at all. It use to move right when you started to let off the pedal but now it starts going like right before te pedal is all the way at the end. I think it's not disengaging all the way..but I don't know much about manuals.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 Firehawk View Post
There is over 1/2" clearance between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing where the back of the fork is accessible to check travel. .

I stand corrected sir. yes you can "see" the fork if you pull the dust cover. Removing oil filter would allow better access also.

in the front view pic you can see the oil filter on DS through the bellhousing without dust shielld on. looks like you could at least see fork movement with hydraulics installed

Last edited by BALLSS; 06-30-2013 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:55 PM   #10
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Default LT1 Clutch Issues

Yeah, most don't think to check from the cover plate side because it's not obvious that you can see it and get rough measurements of fork travel through there. But it's the only way I know of to check for proper hydraulic movement with everything still intact.
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1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecm94 View Post
Thanks. I will try that this weekend! Didn't know if I was going to have to replace the clutch or not. I figured Id get on here an ask before I did so.
What sort of mileage is on the clutch.
My 95 Z28 has 49k & Me for the last 10k. On pulling the motor & Tranny the friction plate is just showing signs of wear on the rivets on both sides.

Hohum More money.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:51 AM   #12
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I had like a 140k on my factory clutch, and it had plenty of life left.

I would check your hydraulics and reservoir.
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