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01-18-2013, 11:16 PM
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#1
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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1993 Camaro LT1 wont crank after reaches running temperature.
My 93 camaro z28 m6 started messing up Wednesday. I was driving home and it jerked twice while driving then I pulled in the driveway to check the mail and it almost died but jumped back up. When out 2hrs later and it would just turn but not crank. Took my truck came back 3hrs later and it cranked right up. It cranks right up when cold but after it warms to its temperature and I cut it off it cont crank anymore just turns. It has to be cooled down to turn on again. I had the opti replaced with a summit brand one and got a GM ICM 6months ago. I went to text the GM ICM today and they test it 3 times and it passed but I still bought a new Auto zone one and put it on and still does the same? Does anyone have any suggestions what it may be now?
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01-18-2013, 11:21 PM
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#2
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Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver Isl., BC
Posts: 2,120
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your terminology is a bit confusing 'cranking' is when the starter works to turn the engine over. its a leftover term from when cars actually had a crank handle on the front to start them.
what you describe is usually ICM problems. did you put thermal paste on the new ICM when you installed it? was there thermal paste when you took the old ICM off?
could be that nice shiny new 'summit opti' too. those are a real peice of shit.
you should scan it for codes before going any further
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01-18-2013, 11:23 PM
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#3
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Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver Isl., BC
Posts: 2,120
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coils can fail like that too (start working again when they cool off), so can fuel pumps, just fyi, and both are really really easy to check if you can make it die again.
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01-19-2013, 05:39 AM
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#4
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo
your terminology is a bit confusing 'cranking' is when the starter works to turn the engine over. its a leftover term from when cars actually had a crank handle on the front to start them.
what you describe is usually ICM problems. did you put thermal paste on the new ICM when you installed it? was there thermal paste when you took the old ICM off?
could be that nice shiny new 'summit opti' too. those are a real peice of shit.
you should scan it for codes before going any further
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Well it tries to start but it just won't fire up that's what I mean. And yes the gm icm had the white grease and I put some on the new one . The engine light is jot on though could I still get codes?
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01-19-2013, 05:42 AM
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#5
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo
coils can fail like that too (start working again when they cool off), so can fuel pumps, just fyi, and both are really really easy to check if you can make it die again.
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How can I check the fuel pump you mean by checking up front see if it has fuel pressure? And how can I check the coil? Sorry if I don't know much I was away from fbodies for a while had a 94z28 then 02 ss and now this one.
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01-19-2013, 10:56 AM
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#6
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Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kernersville
Posts: 250
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Could be MAF? My corvette did the same thing when its MAF was bad. It would start, get to operating temp then boop! done -.- cool off, start again then get warm and boop -.- done lol, But if i put it in drive, it would stagger and cut off lol Replaced the MAF and she fired and ran for the next 6 months until i sold her =]
p.s. she still runs to this day
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01-19-2013, 10:59 AM
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#7
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Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kernersville
Posts: 250
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If you can, just grab a MAF to see if thats a prob. Here we have a triple A salvage palce that test all the parts off wrecked cars and if they are good, yu can get them for really cheap prices i dont have any junk parts on my car but you should just grab a MAF to see if thats the problem.
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01-19-2013, 11:24 AM
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#8
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Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver Isl., BC
Posts: 2,120
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his car doesn't have a maf... it's a '93
p.s. unplugging your maf altogether would have diagnosed that problem,
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01-19-2013, 01:15 PM
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#9
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: McDonough, GA
Posts: 551
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1993 Camaro LT1 wont crank after reaches running temperature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonys02slpss
The engine light is jot on though could I still get codes?
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The codes DTC 16 and 36 are both major opti failures that won't light the check engine light. DTC 16 (no low resolution pulse), if active, will disable the fuel pump and injectors while a DTC 36 (no high resolution pulse) will cause hard starting and rough running.
First thing is to scan for codes and verify fuel pressure and spark.
__________________
1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway
Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals
Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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01-19-2013, 01:37 PM
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#10
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Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ga, Stone Mtn
Posts: 788
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Its either fuel or spark. You tested another ICM and it is still doing the same thing, the next thing to check would be your fuel pressure.
Since you have a 93 like me, check your fuel pressure regulator. Pull off the little hose on the tip and feel for gas. If it is wet, your regulator is shot and needs to be replaced.
You might want to also check your ignition coil.
__________________
93 "Oddball" Camaro z28
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01-19-2013, 02:25 PM
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#11
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philosophico
Its either fuel or spark. You tested another ICM and it is still doing the same thing, the next thing to check would be your fuel pressure.
Since you have a 93 like me, check your fuel pressure regulator. Pull off the little hose on the tip and feel for gas. If it is wet, your regulator is shot and needs to be replaced.
You might want to also check your ignition coil.
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Yea I got a new one from auto zone yesterday for $118 and it was the same so I put the old one back on and returned the new one. This morning I went out and cranked right up but it stayed on for 1min and then it cut off and wouldnt crank anymore. I unplugged the icm and the battery for a couple of minutes and nothing. I checked the furl pressure at the front when you take the small cap off on the block and it squirted so the fuel pump is working. Then 2minutes later it cranked right up and I let it warm up and ran it on the road and runs fine it dont pull or nothing. Then turn it off and turned right on did it about 3 times. Then went back out 10 minutes later and it doesnt start just turns but never cranks.
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01-20-2013, 08:57 AM
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#12
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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Anyone have any other idea what it might be?
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01-20-2013, 12:17 PM
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#13
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Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kernersville
Posts: 250
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If he has an LT1 I really wouldve thought he had a MAF? my B lol
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01-20-2013, 12:18 PM
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#14
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Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kernersville
Posts: 250
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When you first start it up what really happens? Does it pop? Does it just cut out ?
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01-20-2013, 12:48 PM
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#15
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Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Workman
Do you have to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it on when you do?
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I can go out there right now and it will crank right up with no problem dont have to give it gas or anything. Sometimes it will just cut off and not turn back on till later but most time it will stay on and idle normal and I can drive it and it wont miss or jerk but once I turn it off it wont crank back it just turns like trying to crank. No popping or anything...
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