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Old 12-01-2012, 08:57 PM   #1
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Default Smog Fail ):

Hello,

I have a 1994 Camaro z28 m6 w/ 108,xxx miles on it. Today i went to get it smog-ed and to find out it failed. The person who smog-ed the car said it was running rich. That's the reason it failed. My question is what is the cause for the car to run rich. He over heated my car (way passed 260! i was extremly mad because its never done that) when i informed him that he was excessively accelerating and high revving it for no apparent reason BEFORE he even started to do anything.

The car has new spark plugs and wires. It does have a cheap cold air intake. (From ebay, was from the previous owner) It does have a exhaust leak near the cat. Also, has new exhaust manifold gaskets. (every once in a while i have to re-tighten the driver side far end bolt) Also, if this helps i put 89 gas.

I will post up a picture of my smog certificate, hopefully that would help some help me to figure what is the cause.

Thanks everyone that helps

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Old 12-01-2012, 09:04 PM   #2
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Getting it real hot helps the emissions levels, but yea, it sucks to watch some clown mess with your car.

Any exhaust leak will cause havoc with things so get all them fixed first. Then, throw 93 octane in, although in Kali you guys are stuck with 91?
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I have a heavily modified lt1.


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Old 12-01-2012, 10:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowNoMercy View Post
Getting it real hot helps the emissions levels, but yea, it sucks to watch some clown mess with your car.

Any exhaust leak will cause havoc with things so get all them fixed first. Then, throw 93 octane in, although in Kali you guys are stuck with 91?
Ohh, well thats good to know. But he got it too hot
I will get them fixed, Yeah well only have 91 here
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:01 AM   #4
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I believe crc sells some crap you put in your fuel that is supposed to help wit emissions. I think it 20 bucks, worth a shot when u go to get it reinspected.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:44 AM   #5
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Running that hot will also cause the PCM to command a rich condition in an attempt to bring down the temperature and prevent damage. You should look into why it was running that hot to begin with. As mentioned, run higher octane just in case you were getting knock counts and had timing pulled. Your test showed high CO (rich combustion) and HC (unburned fuel), but also your NO2 levels were high but passing, which indicates high combustion temps (usually from a lean condition). That may point to one cylinder not firing or having incomplete combustion, which will really screw with the O2s and the PCM.


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Old 12-02-2012, 10:29 AM   #6
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+1 High HC and CO indicates dirty burn, 577 NO at 15 MPH just squeaked by. Run higher octane fuel, get on it a couple of times to blow out any carbon. Seafoam the intake to clean up top end. Make sure the CAI filter is clean. Did you verify gaps on the new plugs, & make sure wires are snug. A messed up O2 could cause rich due to false lean readings, but you need scanner to isolate/prove it. They usually put a big fan in front of car during 15 & 25 MPH dyno test, is you air dam OK. You need to keep it cooler to get by NO testing, and at the same time hot enough to keep CAT working for HC and CO. 190-220* is good range for a stock setup. Fans will cut on low at 225 and high at 236. How hot did your gauge get up to.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
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+1 High HC and CO indicates dirty burn, 577 NO at 15 MPH just squeaked by. Run higher octane fuel, get on it a couple of times to blow out any carbon. Seafoam the intake to clean up top end. Make sure the CAI filter is clean. Did you verify gaps on the new plugs, & make sure wires are snug. A messed up O2 could cause rich due to false lean readings, but you need scanner to isolate/prove it. They usually put a big fan in front of car during 15 & 25 MPH dyno test, is you air dam OK. You need to keep it cooler to get by NO testing, and at the same time hot enough to keep CAT working for HC and CO. 190-220* is good range for a stock setup. Fans will cut on low at 225 and high at 236. How hot did your gauge get up to.
Next week when i re-smog it i will run higher octane. Also, i will seafoam the intake once the rain goes away I will change the air filter tomorrow, because i'm not liking the aftermarket filter at all either. I checked all the spark plug wires if they were snug and the sure were, as for the gaping, i pulled one off but haven't checked. I ordered new 02 sensors just in case. They didn't turn on the big fan , i told them to but they said i "didnt" need it. My gauge when way past 260, it was pasted the red lines.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 Firehawk View Post
Running that hot will also cause the PCM to command a rich condition in an attempt to bring down the temperature and prevent damage. You should look into why it was running that hot to begin with. As mentioned, run higher octane just in case you were getting knock counts and had timing pulled. Your test showed high CO (rich combustion) and HC (unburned fuel), but also your NO2 levels were high but passing, which indicates high combustion temps (usually from a lean condition). That may point to one cylinder not firing or having incomplete combustion, which will really screw with the O2s and the PCM.


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Its never over heated on my once, only till he smog-ed my car. But over all, i changed the radiator, thermostat & water pump, just be on the safe side. I will run higher octane, but i have a feeling it was because i mixed "shell gas" with some cheap ol "rotten robbie" gas.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:51 AM   #9
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Sorry i put 89 Gas.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:00 PM   #10
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Default Smogging is California

This was a post I made a few years ago on the forum after I was put through the ringer by the Ca. Emissions Nazis. I thought some of you may find it useful.
===============

DISCLAIMER - The opinions expressed below are just that, OPINIONS, and are worth every penny you paid for them.
Use any of the included information at your own descretion and risk.


Through a long and painful process this is what I have learned about California emissions testing and a few things to do that will help get a car certified.

First here is the link to the California Air Resouce Board - (C.A.R.B.)
(I have another name for them but I know this is an all ages site - I will leave it up to your imaginations)
NOTE - This is a collection of all the rules & regulations not just laws concerning automobiles.
http://www.arb.ca.gov/html/lawsregs.htm


This site although geared to engine swaps has the best description of the smog inspection process that one would go through if you have after market parts installed.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Ch...._V-8_Smog.html


This site is the database of approved after market parts and their associated Executive Order numbers.
Executive Orders are issued for aftermarket parts that manufacturers have submitted for testing and that have been proven NOT to increase the emissions. Any aftermarket parts used in CA have to have a EO number or you will fail the inspection. This is where you find what parts you can use on your vehicle when building or modifying your car.
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/afterm....es/amquery.php


This site is a listing of emissions standards in use for CA at this time.
http://159.145.15.175/ftp/pdfdocs/asm_ph43.pdf


This is C.A.R.B.'s Smog Faq...simple but slightly useful.
http://159.145.15.175/stdPage.asp?B....ck/default.htm


This site allows you to check the smog test history for a particular vehicle using either the VIN or the license plate number. Handy if you are looking to purchase a used car. VIN lookup is usually best.
Personally I find it disturbing since it is another 'Big Brother' tactic of data collection, but handy none the less.
http://159.145.15.175/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx


For those of you that still have not gotten your fill of laws this site will give you access to current California air pollution control laws.
http://www.arb.ca.gov/bluebook/bluebook.htm


Now for the list of things I found that helped get the car into the acceptable emissions range.

1. Most important make sure that the vehicle has no mechanical problems.

2. Change the oil before the smog check. The PCV system of your vehicle is designed to allow your engine to breath fumes located in oil compartments (oil pan, ect.). The fumes are then burned through the combustion process. Contaminated oils are high in Hydrocarbons and will present a rich mixture to the engine chambers(too much fuel). If the oil in your engine is contaminated, it may very well cause your vehicle to fail the inspection.

3. Right before testing make sure you drive long enough for the car to reach full operating temperature.

4. Use a good fuel additive. I have used "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula (12 oz.)" for years. In my experience it will reduce the tested emissions levels by about 10 - 15%. If your vehicle is borderline failing this
will do the trick. You need to put the additive in the tank and then fill the tank. Drive the car over a period of days until you empty the tank. Then refill tank and go straight to the testing station.
You can obtain Guaranteed to Pass here >> http://www.autobarn.net/ch05063.html or from most major parts stores.
There are other good additives such as Blue Sky and PuraGas Emissions Test - Fuel catalyst (fuel additive) for gasoline.
I have no personal experience with either of these products, only the rantings and ravings of my friends.


5. Returned several areas of PCM programming back to factory settings.
(You did make a copy of these before tuning, didn't you??)
I have documented the settings and may be convinced to share these if asked politely.
I also have a original spec factory programming in LT1-edit file format that I can share.


Areas Changed
%Power Enrichment vs RPM adjustments
KNOCK RETARD MAX LIMIT vs MAP, non-PE - changes only in the 95 & 100 Kpa ranges - doubt this came into play during testing.
MAF vs Frequency calibration
KNOCK RETARD MAX LIMIT vs RPM in PE - changes only in 4000 rpm and above - again doubt this came into play during testing.
Spk Adv 400-4000 RPM - changes in the 1800 rpm and above ranges.

These changes brought all areas to extremely low readings, except the NO readings. NO was still too high to pass.

The final change was to the temperature the cooling fans turned on.
This snapped the NO readings to acceptable levels.
Instead of the normal 178 / 178 settings which keep the engine temp in the 180 - 185 area I set them to 226 / 235.
This allowed the engine temp to reach an average of 220 during idle and dyno testing.
A catalytic converter works best when it is hot.

Good luck and good testing.

Questions ???? Just ask.
As always I am open to giving my opinion to anyone who will listen.

Class dismissed.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:12 PM   #11
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One Fast, Sorry.. I sort of blew by the 260* statement in your OP.. This is getting interesting so I went into TunerCat and started looking at your '94's stock tune reactions for high temp conditions. At 239* F (115* C) in order to protect the engine.. the PCM turns on High Temp Enrichment (after a 20 second delay). The PCM then minimally adjusts AFR to 11.2 (that's adding 23% extra fuel) and at the same time it pulls 3-6 * of timing depending on MAP (40-60 Kpa) readings. Looks to me if you were running 260* F (126* C) that may be the reason for high HC, CO (AFR enrichment) and hear high NO readings (hot combustion). Past 235* F your cooling fans should have been running high speed. I know they use the external fan for my dyno WOT runs, and they always use the fan for my emission testing. Since I never actually seen a 15 & 25 test w/o the external fan I can't comment on how hot the car gets. But at 15-25 MPH below 2500 RPM for the test it seems the internal fans should have held temps down. Solving the cooling problem may do the trick..
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