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Old 12-02-2012, 08:33 AM   #16
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I think if I were you on a limited budget.... Get a really nice set of heads and cam, then save your money for a good shortblock if your doing the labor yourself.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2cat95TA View Post
This reminds me of my friend, he recently blew up his motor (5.7 vortec in 1997 Sierra). He is planning on buying a 383 crate motor and putting it into his truck. He is going to use the stock injectors and stock tune because he doesn't want to spend the money on tune, etc. He expects it to run like a champ (which the site he is buying it off of says it will run just fine on the stock tune lol). He is in for a surprise when it doesn't run that great, and is low on power. I keep telling him to save up enough extra money for a tune and bigger injectors, so maybe I will get through to him.
Just FWIW, you can't put bigger injectors in the Vortec. They don't exist... Also, the stock Vortec tune will run fine with a mild 383. You can always benefit from optimizing the fuel and ignition maps, but the Vortec will run fine with the stock tune and a mild-cammed 383.

I'm not trying to hijack the thread or invalidate your point, because it is a very valid point you're making about the 'completeness' of an engine combo. Myself, KW and several others on here are always preaching that very thing, so I definitely agree with your point. I just wanted to pass this on for your friend with the Vortec. I build many, many Vortec 383's for my truck customers. That subject is right in my 'wheel house'...!
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Just FWIW, you can't put bigger injectors in the Vortec. They don't exist... Also, the stock Vortec tune will run fine with a mild 383. You can always benefit from optimizing the fuel and ignition maps, but the Vortec will run fine with the stock tune and a mild-cammed 383.

I'm not trying to hijack the thread or invalidate your point, because it is a very valid point you're making about the 'completeness' of an engine combo. Myself, KW and several others on here are always preaching that very thing, so I definitely agree with your point. I just wanted to pass this on for your friend with the Vortec. I build many, many Vortec 383's for my truck customers. That subject is right in my 'wheel house'...!

My question is what do those Vortecs dyno before and after ?
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transamman25 View Post
My question is what do those Vortecs dyno before and after ?
Before and after what?
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:49 AM   #20
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I think he means before and after the stroker rebuild.

I like the shortblock idea though. How much should I look to pay for a decent shortblock? Nothing too fancy, just something for a decent build. A good cam, but not one that has the engine trying to jump out of the car. Seems like it might actually be somewhat difficult to pick out a good shortblock. Because you have to consider what heads and intake combo you're going to run with it all.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:40 AM   #21
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.......How much should I look to pay for a decent shortblock?.......
Depends on how much power you wanna make, what type of set-up you want to build......and the quality of parts you want/need in your engine.

All that said, if you're looking for a completly rebuilt engine; 350ci with cast rotating assembly can be had for as little as $1800.

For a forged stroker that's gonna see a power adder and nitrous, you could be looking at up to $10,000.

Again.......you need to explain what the term "a decent shortblock" means......and exactly how you intend to use the engine before you can receive a 'good' answer.

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Old 12-05-2012, 04:25 PM   #22
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Here is One good option, pick out a matched head cam kit from advanced inductionAdvanced Induction - LSX Heads & Cam Kits
Look for their video of cncing of cylinder heads also
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:41 AM   #23
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My question is what do those Vortecs dyno before and after ?
If you're meaning before the stroker install and after, there are a TON of variables. A bone-stock L31 Vortec is a pretty anemic piece, although when it came out in '96, it was a far cry better than the TBI engine it replaced. I think the stock L31 Vortec 350 is rated at about 255 hp, or something like that. I've never dynoed a stock Vortec. I'll leave that to GM.

The 383 Vortec that I like to build for a truck application (this is what I have in my own personal truck), for example, dials in at about 390 hp and 475 lb/ft (at the crank) with the stock fuel system. It definitely takes a little tuning to get these numbers, but my original intent was simply to point out that the stock L31 PCM tuning WILL build adequate fuel maps with the stock fuel system for a small, truck cammed 383 without tuning.

GM sells their HT383e for this very application.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka View Post
Depends on how much power you wanna make, what type of set-up you want to build......and the quality of parts you want/need in your engine.

All that said, if you're looking for a completly rebuilt engine; 350ci with cast rotating assembly can be had for as little as $1800.KW
Good point. I'm thinking one that will run about 500-550 flywheel hp. After the power adder. Turbo is what I wanna do. And I wan't something that will last. I know you shorten the lifespan when you beat on it but I won't be doing that nearly as much as some people might. So I'm looking for something that can make that kind of power, and have some decent longevity. Say 100-150k miles. I don't see why that should be a problem even though I know I'll get a bunch of people claiming its impossible cause they don't have the self control to keep their foot out of it.

And admin, why is there no multi- quote button on this forum? Fail.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:36 PM   #25
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Back in the day (and I sound old now) I was running 302's, 351's, and a few FE engines. I was pumping out some serious numbers out of these motors. But from what I have been reading these newer engines are able to put out as much with smaller displacements and still hold up well.

The whole engine needs to be designed for the type of running you plan on putting it through. If you are red light to red light or down a strip you need the low end torque with a steady ramp up. If you are running the car at higher highway speeds then you need that free breathing motor that can spin the higher rpms.

I'm looking for that low end torque with the steady ramp up that doesn't fall flat on its face after it gets up there in the speed.

Figure out how you plan on using the motor. Think about all the supporting mods like the brakes and suspension. You got to be able to budget for the ability to stop and control that power. Trust me I know.

I flipped my '97 Z28 because the car had the power to go but didn't have the brakes or suspension to control it. Plus being 28 and totally stupid at the time didn't help either.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:16 PM   #26
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351w on the hit in a notch equals ftw. Local kid had his junk go low 10s on a junk build 351(when i mean junk i mean junk) and a 200 shot
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:56 PM   #27
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????
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #28
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Idk lol
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:50 PM   #29
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I was thinking about a 351 for my 94 GT. A little expensive to build up though, it looks like. Seems better to do a 302/306. When it comes to bang for the buck.

And here I thought this was the chevy forums lol
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:26 AM   #30
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I got a couple of Ford engines laying around still. I admit it. I'm a engine horder.

I have a '65-67 era 289 that I pulled out of a running car about 14 years ago. Then I have a '70 model Mexican 302 block (the ones with the high nickel content) that has become a trip hazard. I also have either a 390GT or an early 428 that came out of a 60's Torino.

Looks like now if I go the direction I am leaning towards I'll be hoarding a LT1 too.

I told my wife I might have to sell the 289 and the 302 block to make room for the new additions.

If you know anyone looking for a good C4 I have a TCI Streetfighter with the Ford 6 bolt bell housing for sale. Bought it new several years ago and I never even pulled it out of the box. Had plans to fit it to my '68 J code Fastback Mustang but ended up selling the car to a guy in the Czech Republic. $1200 setup for $750.
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