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11-15-2012, 09:17 AM
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#1
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 40
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Another water pump seal question
hi
I am getting ready to change my cam over the winter, so have been reading up stuff on it.
I bought the $25 tool off Ebay to install the wp seal & the Felpro gasket kit.
I have read that you should lube up the seal & shaft before installing, but according to Felpro (see att.) it is a PTFE seal & must be installed dry.
Any thoughts on which way I should install it?
Thanks
Last edited by blufc3s; 03-10-2013 at 09:18 AM.
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11-15-2012, 09:38 AM
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#2
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Global Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fruitland Park,Florida
Posts: 6,844
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Since this is a different material than other brands of seals, I would follow the manufacturers instructions in this case.
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11-15-2012, 11:44 AM
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#3
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Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 5,223
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Do what the instructions say.
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11-15-2012, 12:07 PM
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#4
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 55
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All three seals on the timing cover are installed DRY!
__________________
1994 SLP Firehawk (#64) - Pacesetter Long Tube Headers, 3" exhaust w/o cats, SLP Loudmouth muffler, LT 4 intake, TPiS 58mm Throttle Body, 2400 stall, Granatelli MAF, 160 thermostat, and Morroso K & N CAI (removed the Ram Air box). 13.2 @ 102mph.
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11-15-2012, 12:14 PM
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#5
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 40
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Thanks everyone!
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11-15-2012, 06:20 PM
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#6
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Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 362
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of the seals that come in the FelPro TCS 45956 the WP drive & Opti seals install "dry". The crank seal you can grease
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11-15-2012, 07:01 PM
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#7
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Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minnesooota
Posts: 49
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What I do is put a tiny bit of hot water, JUST enough to coat the seal, to help it slide on... If the water is hot enough it will evaporate quick enough and no harm done... Done this 3 separate times and has worked wonderfully.
Edit: I used a socket instead of the instal tool, so I used the water to get the seal on to the socket and from there on to the drive shaft, by the time the seal is completely seated the water had evaporated or rubbed off...
Last edited by FormulaJoe; 11-15-2012 at 07:05 PM.
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11-17-2012, 11:23 AM
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#8
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Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: oregon
Posts: 5
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blufc3s They install dry and thanks for your business
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11-17-2012, 04:44 PM
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#9
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Regular Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3
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When the instructions mention to "install dry", it is referring to the outer edge of the seal. The "colored" paint on the outer edge is a sealant. Oil on the outside diameter of the seal could interfere with that sealant working properly.
Now, inside diameter of the seal...there is nothing wrong with oiling it before install. It will help prevent nicks on the sealing surface as it's installed. I think the key is making sure all the surfaces are clean before hand. If you oil the lip, then install it on a trashy or dirty surface, then the trash may get trapped under the lip(via the oil) and cause issues on startup by damaging the lip.
Not only the above, I feel that the oil(on a clean surface) will help the rear sealing surface to not fold in on itself during the install.
The following works well to help protect the seal as the cover is installed, with the seal in it, or when slipping the seal over the WP shaft to install it in a cover already installed on the engine......
http://ace1252.com/images/water_pump_seal_tool.JPG
__________________
Eric R.- Electrical Engineer - ODU
1996 Blue Z28, 6M
CC503, 1.6 Pro Mags, Kooks, Stock heads, K&N CAI.
Piedmont..8.412@88.57/Farmington..8.389@88.35
Last edited by ACE1252; 11-17-2012 at 04:52 PM.
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11-17-2012, 10:34 PM
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#10
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Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 5,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACE1252
When the instructions mention to "install dry", it is referring to the outer edge of the seal. The "colored" paint on the outer edge is a sealant. Oil on the outside diameter of the seal could interfere with that sealant working properly.
Now, inside diameter of the seal...there is nothing wrong with oiling it before install.
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Clearly not the recommendation for this particular seal. The package instructions say don't lube the seal lip (inside, which is the PTFE [teflon] part) or sealing surface (outer edge).
Install completely dry-no oil. My completely dry installed w/p seal has been leak free for almost 9 years.
Many other round seals can be lubed on the inside lip or even come pre-lubed. The outside is normally always installed dry.
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11-19-2012, 12:11 PM
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#11
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Regular Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebox
My completely dry installed w/p seal has been leak free for almost 9 years.
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As has mine for 4 years with a dry install on the outside and a slight lube on the inside.
I completely agree with a dry install for the outside of the seal(as the coating on the outside surface is a sealant). For the inside lip, either way will work. I've had problems, in the past, without some type of lube on the inside seal lips when installed dry. This experience comes from years of gearbox maintenance in a production environment. I generally don't recommend against manufacturer instructions, but I've been burned enough in the past on completely dry seal installs to not want to chance it.
Just offering up my experience as something to consider.
__________________
Eric R.- Electrical Engineer - ODU
1996 Blue Z28, 6M
CC503, 1.6 Pro Mags, Kooks, Stock heads, K&N CAI.
Piedmont..8.412@88.57/Farmington..8.389@88.35
Last edited by ACE1252; 11-19-2012 at 09:13 PM.
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11-19-2012, 01:56 PM
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#12
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Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver Isl., BC
Posts: 2,107
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you can always lubricate a seal with what it's designed to seal against, if you're worried about it.
cooling system seal on the water end of things? just leave the thing in a cap of antifreeze for an hour before you install it.
that way it'll be nice and slippery until the coolant itself has a chance to penetrate and lubricate the seal as designed
__________________
'97 z28 m6. built for DD torque. obd-i, lunati 262/270 cam, cc915, aluminum 1.5rr, mids, etc
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11-19-2012, 02:52 PM
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#13
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Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 5,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo
you can always lubricate a seal with what it's designed to seal against, if you're worried about it.
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That probably makes more sense than any instructions.
Obviously, it is not insanely critical for the w/p shaft seal. The biggest consideration is not snagging the seal on install.
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11-19-2012, 03:31 PM
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#14
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Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by higgyburners
blufc3s They install dry and thanks for your business 
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Looks like a great tool. anxious to get at the "job"!
stew
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