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Old 11-12-2012, 04:59 PM   #1
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Default i am lost ws6 with no power

i am at breaking point some know ive been fighting with a car with no power since i bought it


parts replaced since ive owned it (a month or so)

opti
waterpump
crank position sensor
coolant temp sensor
fuel pump
fuel pressure reg
and i may be forgetting some

The orginal cam is back in the car and it still has no power, you let off the clutch in 1st and it literally feels as if your starting off in 2end gear almost a bog.


Now i went to my fan relays because thats the only code im getting because the prev owner decided to jerry rig them by jumping them to stay on all the time. I replaced all relays 1,2,3 and took his jumpers off to see if bringing the temp up to normal range would make it run better and now the fans are still on all the time.....

if i turn the ignition on there not on, if i turn the key and start it there not on until about a min or so then there on and never shut off... A friend of mine says the way he had them jumped out could burn up the computer so ive now ordered a computer for the car and HOPE thats my issue.


Any input for me as to why the car has no power still?


those that dont know i have a 97 trans am ws6 6 speed with a caprice lt1 bottom end in the car i changed the cam thinking that the orginal cam had to go back in the car seeing that the cam is the only thing the prev owner did not change he put heads and intake from orginal motor on this new motor.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #2
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I will say unless the block has 327 on the side of it, you have a much smaller cu in motor.

I'd do a basic tune up on the car like fuel filter, air filter, clean the MAF, new plugs & wires, new O2 sensors and seafoam the motor and see how it responds then.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:51 PM   #3
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Compression,fuelpressure,vacum test first. Once you have this info you can start to diagnose. As for saying "it has no power" could be anything from a weak coil to a clogged cat.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:53 PM   #4
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You also said you swapped cams. Timing may be a issue? Are you sure that the gears were in the correct positions?
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:09 AM   #5
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Something I just found out that may help you. I was told that if the SEL is not properly hooked up that the fans will stay constant and the engine will go into limp mode. Maybe with all the jerry riggin wiring that your SEL may not be hooked up in the way that it should and this is happening. Not sure, just something to think about.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burn em down View Post
i......The orginal cam is back in the car and it still has no power......
I already told you the cam wasn't the issue......

diff between 95 caprice lt1 vs ws6 lt1 please help

The B-body cam makes as much (or more) torque as the F-body cam.....and does it at a lower RPM.

The fact that even the B-body cam wouldn't spin the tires tell me that the engine is tired. I suggest you do a compression check before throwing more parts at it.

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Old 11-13-2012, 04:18 AM   #7
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Also.i.forgot to say new fuel filter and maf....... idid compression check it and it was easily within limits . What are you talking about sel may not.be hooked up correct?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:20 AM   #8
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Get a real time scan so you can see what's going on. Check for DTC's as well. A burnt out check engine light should light a DTC 11, and there's others that won't light the lamp either.

If the PCM was tuned for a more modded engine in the past, it could be way off for your stock motor. I wouldn't run out and buy a new PCM just because it's not making the power it should. Changing unnecessary parts can get quite costly.


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Old 11-13-2012, 07:04 PM   #9
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the check engine light is not burnt out, its just not coming on anymore for the codes its used to. i unplugged maf to set the light off and it did.

by having the fan relays jumped all this time is there a chance it burnt up the computer?

like i said i put all new relays in and took the rigged up crap out and now the fans come on after a min or so and never shut off...


the pcm was not tuned as far as i know, and the old engine was stock with nothing done other than exhaust... i used to have o2 sensor codes because i gutted the cats to be sure they were not clogged but now i dont have any more o2 sensor codes


a few people say the front two o2 sensors can cause poor performance but damn this car has no power i dont see it being o2 sensors?
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:15 PM   #10
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O2 sensors most certainly can cause power loss. Man, in my 350Z my O2s went out and I thought it would not make it off the highway. I give it gas and it almost stalls, the gets back full power, then going but no power, to almost stall, to full power, to almost stall, to low rpm and no throttle response, to full power,.... all within a few minutes trying to get it to an exit.

Maybe not as extreme in a LT1, idk.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:28 PM   #11
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I would say that it is time for a real tune and a ECU check. Find a local tuning shop and schedule an appointment. Instead of keep throwing money at it and buying parts you may not need you will most likely find out what is wrong and get a tune to make the most of the engine. Two birds one stone kind of scenario.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #12
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well im glad to say that the new ecu came in and it was deff the issue. im spinning through 2end gear now. other than the fact i got an automatic ecu which is giving me tons of codes about tourque converter and trans temp/shift points its running amazing. im going to get a calibration done by the local gm dealer hopefully this Friday as long as i can get it off from work. my speedo is way off and my fans are not turning on. so hoping the dealer can sort that stuff out. id go get a tune but i doubt they can adjust speedos even thought im calling them first just to see if they can do it!

But anywho just wanted to update everyone on the cause of issue and how its fixed......it feels great to have full power on the car. makes me think i got the better end of the trade from the prev owner even though i wasted lots of time and some money now i will (or soon i will) have a turn key cold ac clean 4th gen trans am! Thanks so much everyone!


Any doubts about fans turning on?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:40 PM   #13
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I'd hold on to the original PCM. A faulty one will be throwing codes. I imagine the PO had a tune on the old PCM that was way off for your motor if there weren't any codes. Highly unlikely the PCM failed in a way that wouldn't throw codes and only reduce power. Just because replacing it worked, doesn't mean the old PCM is bad.


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Old 11-15-2012, 04:57 AM   #14
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Yes most.deff.going to hold on to orginal ecu. Where do i get it calibrated at the local gm dealer? Or can a speed shop do it? Like i said i have automatic transmission codes coming up and its a 6 speed also the speedo is way off. Other than that its running great other than fans not.kicking.on???? And im not jumping the relays out either seeing thats pro what messed up the ecu by having that consent draw.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burn em down View Post
Yes most.deff.going to hold on to orginal ecu. Where do i get it calibrated at the local gm dealer......
In my experience, a dealership will only load the stock program (plus any 'factory updates') into the PCM. They will not offer any kind of customized tuning.

Some speed shops will also offer the service. But if they don't specialize in LT1 or even GM tuning......well, lets just say that you don't go to a Chinese restourant to order pizza .

Contact www.pcmforless.com

They can email you a tune for you car......or you can send them your PCM and they'll load a tune directly.

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