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Old 11-10-2012, 12:21 PM   #1
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I found a (said 1994) LT1 on Craigslist for $1500. I was looking for 374 alum heads and saw this engine looking like brand new (rebuilt block) sitting on a engine stand. The man said he got it out of the machine shop for a guy that owed $1500 and was out of work so he got it out for some guy and held the engine for payment. I asked why he only wanted 1500 for it and he said it had been in the shop for a year and wanted his 1500 back. I took the engine home, with out pan and valve covers or intake. It is a 2 bolt with 374 heads, I think some one used the wrong cam in this install, like a SBC cam. There is no long pin on the cam snout.

Anyway there is lube grease at the journals and mains, and I have searched all over the engine and can't find a stamp no where to see if the mains have been turned. I always thought the common place was on the counter weight nearest the crank snout. I have not pulled the heads yet and guess that I have to to see what and if it was bored to. Also on the underside of the pistons I find FMA 425p.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #2
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So if I paid $1000 for a supposedly "rebuilt" LT1, and then found out it wasn't rebuild and had 90k on it, did I get screwed? Paying $1500 for a rebuilt and me paying $1k for 90k.. hmmm
Did I get screwed (not jacking your thread)
The way I know it wasn't rebuilt is I pulled a lifter out and it has oil on the old cam and it's worn perfectly where the lifters were.
He says the motor was vatted but there is still some oil residue on the top, and rust in the water cylinders.
We all get screwed sometimes, I guess next time I'll pull a head to make sure
or the oil pan.
live and learn.
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Old 11-10-2012, 02:48 PM   #3
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Well I don't think I got screwed I think I 'got over'. I think the heads if good are worth 1000, I may be wrong. I am going to disassemble it and use my 4 bolt LT1 block. I found those pistons 425p also fit Ford, weird huh? They are a cast piston.
Maybe the rods and crank aren't turned..good news. I need the 374 heads. It looks as if the assembly has been balanced cause the are a few dimples in the pistons from a drill and the rod cap bottoms looks like they have been freshly surfaced.
I will post pics later cause I am not at my shade tree right now.
And maybe part out in the for sale section.
The cam doesn't belong in a LT1, and I think that is why the long block was abandoned.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:58 PM   #4
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Wow that's great. I hope everything is true. That is very weird about the pistons. I didn't know they were interchangeable. Glws if you go that route. :-)
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:31 PM   #5
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I am somewhat older than most of you guys ,but I have never heard of
drilling or dimpling pistons to balance a piston /rod assembly. I have seen where metal has been removed from rod caps,but that's about all. ed
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdmickjr View Post
I think some one used the wrong cam in this install, like a SBC cam. There is no long pin on the cam snout.
The '94 aluminum headed LT1 used the short cam dowel pin. The distributor was driven by a splined shaft that mated with a splined hole in the cam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wdmickjr View Post
Well I don't think I got screwed I think I 'got over'. I think the heads if good are worth 1000, I may be wrong.
Used aluminum heads, including the 374's can be had for $100-$300 just about anywhere. I've seen rebuilt pairs for $500.

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I have never heard of drilling or dimpling pistons to balance a piston /rod assembly. I have seen where metal has been removed from rod caps, but that's about all. ed
When obtaining the bob weight, typically all the pistons are weighed and material is removed from the underside of the piston to bring all the piston weights down to match the weight of the lightest piston.


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Old 11-11-2012, 06:50 AM   #7
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I've never heard of ford pistons being used in a sbc. Ford pistons have a different pin size, and I would imagine a different pin to top of piston height than a sbc piston would have.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:44 PM   #8
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Well I guess I have been had on the heads. But, over all a fresh 2 bolt block for $1500 is not so bad. Me thinks.

I found 'net' searching 425p and somehow came up with a ford winsor piston.

Since I have searched and looked everywhere on the crank for stamps saying what it was turned to I come up with new crank or never turned. I have parts for my 4 bolt rebuild, and (me thinks) come out near even on savings.

New timing chain and sprockets.
Balanced rods.
A crank if I need it.
New pistons that fit SBC.
Alum 374 heads.
A fresh 2 bolt block.
and a brand new oil pump.

Right now it would be a good deal for a LT1 w/ 1.7rr. But I have a heavy vehicle that will tow often and I think I'll go 4 bolt.

I have had good luck parting out parts around here.
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'00 Safari SLE with '95 4bolt 355 LT1; decked .010'', hand ported 374s & intake (David Vizard tech), 1.94/1.5", farmed out EFI 24x, 2001 LS1 pcm, VooDoo 211/219*, w/1.7" rr .574"/583", 4L60e, shift kit & corvette servo, G80 GT4, 3.73:1, ported & massaged Granny's Speed Shop headers, true duals, 2 long Cherry Bombs used for resonators, 2 long Thrush Turbo mufflers, local tune under an Oak tree. 5 year project/swap.
aka fAstro
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:29 PM   #9
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CHEVY 350 96-01 LT1 SHORT BLOCK: High Performance Engines | ATK Custom Built Crate Engines
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:21 PM   #10
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If I spent too much I am going to blame you.
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'00 Safari SLE with '95 4bolt 355 LT1; decked .010'', hand ported 374s & intake (David Vizard tech), 1.94/1.5", farmed out EFI 24x, 2001 LS1 pcm, VooDoo 211/219*, w/1.7" rr .574"/583", 4L60e, shift kit & corvette servo, G80 GT4, 3.73:1, ported & massaged Granny's Speed Shop headers, true duals, 2 long Cherry Bombs used for resonators, 2 long Thrush Turbo mufflers, local tune under an Oak tree. 5 year project/swap.
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