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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Break In Oil

Any suggestions on this topic?

Wanna prime the motor and toss it in soon.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 04:07 PM
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Standard organic oil. Like Castrol GTX.

If you decide to pop for specific break-in oil (which you probably don't need with a roller cam) let me know as I have 5 qts of Comp's stuff left over.

'68 Nova SS: Vortec 350 6 spd 4.11 Posi 9" DSE 4wdisc
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 07:28 AM
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I use the Comp cams breakin oil for mine. I heard the Joe Gibb's is really good too.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 08:41 AM
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Marvel Mystery oil here.

(kidding)

Use whatever dino oil you prefer and a non fram made filter.



Yep its slow.

Making the world a warmer place one gallon at a time.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok sounds great, I will try and see if I may oil pressure tmmr evening if I can find a gauge.

Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

If it ain't ARP, it ain't right.
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I have a heavily modified lt1.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 03:01 PM
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I would use a conventional fossil oil for the first 500 miles, only cause let the rings seat. And then use Amsoil with a filter designed for synthetic oil; Mobil 1 makes a good filter and there is WIX and NAPA.

My opinion and my opinion only.

'00 Safari SLE with '95 4bolt 355 LT1; decked .010'', hand ported 374s & intake (David Vizard tech), 1.94/1.5", farmed out EFI 24x, 2001 LS1 pcm, VooDoo 211/219*, w/1.7" rr .574"/583", 4L60e, shift kit & corvette servo, G80 GT4, 3.73:1, ported & massaged Granny's Speed Shop headers, true duals, 2 long Cherry Bombs used for resonators, 2 long Thrush Turbo mufflers, local tune under an Oak tree. 5 year project/swap.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Only the truck gets amsoil, the LT1 can deal with pennz plat.

Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

If it ain't ARP, it ain't right.
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I have a heavily modified lt1.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 10:50 AM
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I'm with WildBilly. I prefer Castrol GTX. Run a petroleum oil for the first 500 miles and then switch to synthetic if you want.

As was stated, with a roller cam, it's not as critical as a flat tappet. You're mainly breaking in rings, and as long as a good plateau finish was put on the cylinder walls, a good set of moly rings will seat pretty much right away.

1995 Camaro Z-28, M6, 396 stroker, Scat forged 3.875" crank, Scat Ultra Q-Lite 6" H-beams, Icon forged pistons (4.030"), splayed 4 bolt w/ARP studs, 12.25:1, AFR 210 heads (2.08"/1.6", 58cc), Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD 1.7:1 rockers, GM847 cam (234/242 .611"/.632"), Edelbrock LT4 air-gap intake, Spec Stage 3+ clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, 24x conversion, 0411 PCM, TPIS 58mm, Bosch III 42# injectors, Aeromotive 340, Kook's stepped LT's, Kook's custom stainless 3-1/2" merge ORY, Magnaflow
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Filled it up with 6qts of castrol, threw the drill on it, and got some interesting bubble noises.

Guess I gotta get a guage on it.

Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

If it ain't ARP, it ain't right.
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I have a heavily modified lt1.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 11:47 AM
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I have some lucas engine oil break in additive here.


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