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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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quad module

Hello all im new to the site. I bought a 93 z28 with the 700r4 it ran fine when i bought it. Now it just runs like crap....geting about 126 miles to the tank. The kid i bought it off of said he put the lt4 hot cam in it, egr and a.i.r delete, cat delete ,tb coolant bypass, beehive springs, and put a pcm for less chip in it. I took it to my shop a couple days ago and had them test my injectors and the wiring harness to see if that was it and they are fine. When they put the scanner on it, it was showing my oil temp was -40 (didnt know i even had a oil temp sensor) car was at temp when we seen that and the quad module 1 was faulty. My ses light doesnt come on unless im on the highway doing about 70 and it throws the code for the left bank running rich and the one for the engine running rich and no other codes. When the tranny is in overdrive if i push on the gas lightly the car shudders untill i push down on the gas to get it to drop down a gear. I only smell fuel comeing from my exhaust and not inside the car. when I let my car sit idiling in my garage I get ugly little carbon spots all on my floor from the exhaust tips. I repalced my plugs and wires about 4k ago and the opti 2k. It has a new timing chain and gears about 6k on them. And the tranny was rebuilt with a shift kit and corvette servo bout 7k ago. Fuel pressure is fine was at 42 with key on and 37 at idle. I have looked every where to try and figure out what the problem is. The egr and air seem to be tuned out as they are not throwing any codes. Im getting a 383 for it in a couple of months and i dont want any problems when i put it in. I know i need a new chip for the motor when i get it. But if this is something where my computer is fried then i want to get one before i put the 383 in. Gas mileage is killing me as this is my daily driver. If the computer is fried should i get another stock computer or should i get one of the standalone ones and have them just leave the air and egr out? Someone please help this is just driving me absolutly crazy, all these mustangs and imports where i live and i cant beat up on em with all the hp i have lost. And if someone could tell me what injectors i should use with my 383 it would be very much appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 10:17 PM
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Disregard the oil temp. There is no sensor and it does not apply. Ignore it. More than likely, it is probably O2 sensors not giving good readings. 93s have non-heated O2s that put them at a disadvantage. Trying to read your run-on paragraph is painful. Does it have headers? Any exhaust leaks? There is nothing to indicate your computer has a problem.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 12:23 AM
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I'd also check to see if pressure holds after priming to rule out a potentially leaking injector, on top of the things Shoebox mentioned. As always, a good scan is very valuable in diagnosing problems, specifically look at your O2s, STFT's, and LTFT's to see what's going on. I'd also second Shoebox in that there's nothing indicating that you have a bad PCM.

Injector sizing depends on how much power you're planning on making. What heads/cam are you running? Headers? Forced induction or nitrous? Once you have figured out what you want to do with your build, then you can choose the right injector size to meet the fuel demands. Just knowing you're building a 383 isn't enough info.


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1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Lol sorry about the punctuations. O2 sensors were operating normally, the guy looking at my car looked at them when he had the scanner hooked up. No headers as of yet and no exhaust leaks. I'll look later to see if the FP bleeds down after it primes. And i'll have to wait till payday to take it to the shop again to have them check the fuel trims. I forgot to mention the car i think idle's way to high 1k in park 800-900 in gear.

The 383 for now when i get it will have stock head's with a stage 2 port and polish. I will be getting long tube headers for it. It will be a N/A motor for now, procharger will be added a year later. And I want to get as close to 500hp at the crank as possible. It will have all forged internal's. I was told I could use the stock injector's and fuel pump. I'm spending close to 5k for the engine and want to get it done right and not have it run to lean, and just destroy my motor.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 01:23 PM
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If the car is idling high, that is usually an indication of a vacuum leak. Check the IAC counts; low IAC counts indicate air is entering the intake manifold somewhere other than the IAC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psychoninja View Post
I was told I could use the stock injector's and fuel pump.
Do not try to build a 383 with ported heads and cam and use the stock injectors. Way too small for that. And especially if you're going to use a supercharger. If it's a mild set up, you may get away with the stock pump, but not with the pro-charger.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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