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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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gas in oil

would a bad opti cause gas in the oil? car was running like crap...so today i bought an opti,cap,rotor,plugs,and wires and put it on ramps then i noticed i had a gas smell to my oil....did i waste my money on the opti? should i take it back and try something else b4 i go through the trouble of changing it?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 08:39 PM
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stuck open injector maybe?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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thats wat i was thinking...it runs like shit tho would just one stuck injector make it run that much worse
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 06:23 PM
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check your fuel pressure regulator.
Pull the vacuum line off of it and see if gas drips out or if you smell any gas
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 06:36 PM
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Better yet, pull your fuel rail up far enough for the injectors to clear their ports, turn key on let prime and see if any are dripping. However, another cause for gas in the oil would be, either/or here, way too rich a mixture on 1 or more cylinders, 1 or more cylinders not firing and the fuel running down into the oil pan. So a bad opti could be the cause, as well as, bad o2's, maf, tps, leaking injectors, vacuum leaks, and other assorted malfunctions.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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what would a bad tps act like? if the opti was bad would it run at all? every one is saying opti but i dont have money to throw into the car
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 07:51 PM
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if you have a temperture gun you can run the car for a few minutes and see which header(s) are not hot, will tell you if any are missing. or if you have a noid light, check each injector plug one at a time, on each side of each plug. one should stay lit up and one should flicker. if both stay lit up then the wires or computer is holding an injector open for whatever reason. then if nothing, you can lift fuel rail up etc. like cocobolo said
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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hell it wont run long enough to do the temp light test thats y i was thinking it wasnt a stuck injector because it starts.....puts....spark knocks...its like a old truck back in the day when ud shut it off and it would run for a few seconds but barely run
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 08:02 PM
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The sensors I mentioned in my last post, o2, maf, tps,and add iat, ect, plus vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks can all make the computer give the wrong instructions to the fuel injectors. This can be running way too rich, which is the most common situation, or running way too lean, not as common but it happens. Lean running seems to cause more acute symtoms then rich running, until the over rich mixture gets to the point of bore washing. Combine an over rich mixture with a malfunctioning ignition system and you can get gas in the oil. Be advised that richness to the point of bore washing is not common. But over rich combined with ignition troubles is common. As cars age and engines wear and sensors become less effective, they tend to go richer as time goes by.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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wat would you reccomend replacing first? its got newer plugs wires and cap an rotor...
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 08:32 PM
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Why do ppl want to just buy stuff instead of trouble shooting?

Black over White '95 with Red/Dark Grey interior T/B bypass / LT4 HotCam / 1.6 RR / LT4 Knock Module / .030 over / Fresh rebuild / Rebuilt M6 / Electric water pump / Solomon Tune / Powder coated stock intake/ Wrapped Shorty Headers
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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thats why i asked wat i should try b4 spending 400 on an opti...it helps when u read the whole thread
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 09:30 PM
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Bad your getting off track here, as members we can suggest possible causes and areas to look for trouble, but these are just a start. A well organized troubleshooting approach is needed to solve the problems of these lt1 cars. There is no, you list the symptoms and someone tells you what to replace. That happens seldom. The members have been trying to instruct you on the proper ways of troubleshooting and a scanner or a cable and computer program are absolutely necessary nowadays if you want to find the problem in a car that is a mass of wiring, sensors, actuators, connectors, grounds, that are all waiting to jump up and bite you on the ass when they malfunction. So if you want to fix any car 20 years old and newer, you need to learn about automotive electronics, computers, wiring, as well as , the mechanical stuff that breaks. Besides a scanner, a factory repair manual, dvom, test light, noid light set, fuel pressure gage, etc are all essential. here's a place to start your lt1 learning experience, www.shbox.com his site is packed full of useful info.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 08-24-2011 at 09:32 PM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocobolo95 View Post
Bad your getting off track here, as members we can suggest possible causes and areas to look for trouble, but these are just a start. A well organized troubleshooting approach is needed to solve the problems of these lt1 cars. There is no, you list the symptoms and someone tells you what to replace. That happens seldom. .
Well said!
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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thanks...its a good web site...ill follow up and let u know what the problem is when i figure it out
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