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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-02-2006, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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ticking noise

my LT1 has a ticking noise at idle,if i give some gas the tick goes away but returns as soon as it idles again.its not the bottom end and i have narrowed it down to the front somewhat upper half of the engine.could it be the water pump or the opti?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 12:17 PM
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ticking is usually rocker arms, how many miles on the engine, and has there been any valvetrain upgrades?
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 01:27 PM
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exhaust leak is possible as well.

Yes, it's the opti.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 01:45 PM
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Bad lifter?

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 08:29 PM
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2006, 03:50 PM
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hamster fell off the wheel and is now bouncing around! no but seriosly. does it sound like air escaping or like a click instead of a tick? what work have you recently done. might be a busted spring if you over revved the piss out of i. that will make a hard click down low and higher rpm pressure will pupm the lifter up enough to quite it. try to be alittle more specific. like is it louder by the intake or by the exhaust?

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drivers side is a dream....passenger side on the other hand...i lost 2 screwdrivevers and a socket when i chucked them in the woods

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2006, 05:17 PM
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i am also having this same problem. it is a very distinct tick i know it cant be an exhaust leak. so how do i check the rockers, springs, rods, and lifters?

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2006, 08:23 PM
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pull the valve cover of the side you think it is. check valve height and rocker wear. you can run the car and listen to pin point a problem if its not obvious.

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Originally Posted by 94FormulaBird View Post
drivers side is a dream....passenger side on the other hand...i lost 2 screwdrivevers and a socket when i chucked them in the woods

u can do it



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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-08-2006, 12:50 AM
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i have the valve cover off and couldnt seem to pinpoint it. possibly the lifter then?

1993 trans am, a4, slp loudmouth exhaust, cat delete, slp CAI, madz28 pcm tune
1957 chevy (210 not bel air) 350, bored .030 over, forged pistons, .496 duration cam, edelebrock performer intake manifold, mallory cd ignition box, longtube headers, "fund drainer" 431 hp 502 TQ
2001.5 dodge cummins, oversized intake, edge comp, $6,000+ DTT built transmission, 78mm non wastegated turbo.
"i guess when the boys stop playing with 1.8 liters and become men with 5.7"
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 11:33 PM
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ok so you have the hard part then sorry for the delay in responce. with the vavle cover off start the car and with a 5/8 socket slowly loosen one rocker at a time till it starts to click. you will be able to tell.then slow tighten it backdown till the noise stops. then add 3/8 of a turn for preload. you have now adjusted that valve. the noise that it made loose is bad if the noise you are hearing as your problem isnt that loud or noticible you dont have anything to worry about. but for good measure now do the samething for every other valve. im sure there due. if a spring or lifter is bad you wont be able to stop a noise. and keep in mind you can over tighten these things and bend rods or mess up your performance. little amounts of loosening and tightening go a long way.

03 Z06, LTs, A&A P1SC running 6psi, 550/471
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94FormulaBird View Post
drivers side is a dream....passenger side on the other hand...i lost 2 screwdrivevers and a socket when i chucked them in the woods

u can do it



I am permanently banned from all petting zoo's for getting to friendly

Last edited by 03slowZ06; 07-09-2006 at 11:37 PM.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-22-2006, 06:12 PM
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ok well i went to adjust the valves and then i just stopped after the first one. the ticking from a rocker out of adjustment is WAY to quiet to be my problem. i am really leaning twards lifter. anyway to check this?

1993 trans am, a4, slp loudmouth exhaust, cat delete, slp CAI, madz28 pcm tune
1957 chevy (210 not bel air) 350, bored .030 over, forged pistons, .496 duration cam, edelebrock performer intake manifold, mallory cd ignition box, longtube headers, "fund drainer" 431 hp 502 TQ
2001.5 dodge cummins, oversized intake, edge comp, $6,000+ DTT built transmission, 78mm non wastegated turbo.
"i guess when the boys stop playing with 1.8 liters and become men with 5.7"
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 07:19 AM
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Cool

I had what I thought was a lifter issue on my 96 LT1. Turns out I was having a misfire on cylinders 3+5. I had a local mechanice hook it up to a snap on OBDII diagnostic machine and the source of the nasty tick was a misfire.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ladybird
I had what I thought was a lifter issue on my 96 LT1. Turns out I was having a misfire on cylinders 3+5. I had a local mechanice hook it up to a snap on OBDII diagnostic machine and the source of the nasty tick was a misfire.
Actually their diagnosing skills may be lacking.

You have to ask what caused the misfire, as they just don't happen by themselves. A collapsed lifter could cause a misfire because that valve would not open very far at all, meaning no air either in or out of the cylinder (depending on what valve the bad lifter is on).

Misfires don't tick. I think the misfire is just a "symptom", not the root cause. Keep looking.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 01:44 PM
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i had the same problem with my 96 Z and it had a flat roller on a lifter it cost me $60 and 2 hrs of my time.

concidently i bought this car for $1500 from the guy because of this noise because a shop told him it was a rod knocking. needless to say it wasnt
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-31-2006, 11:29 PM
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Look at your EGR crap and make sure it's not exhaust leaking. Also check plug wires to make sure theres no cuts or burns in the wires. How is the idel besides the ticking dose it vary or miss?
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