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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant transfer tubes

I am having a problem getting the plugs out of the head for the transfer tubes I had the engine rebuilt and heads were swapped the one that was on left is now on the right and vise versa, could I run the tubes in the front of the engine or do away with them. what are your suggestions??


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2010, 07:21 AM
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Don't do away with the tube and it needs to be on the back for it to be of any use.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 01:08 PM
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i had problems sealing mine when i put afr heads on, didn't get new gaskets for them, so i just used some pipe fittings and hose to achieve the same thing, you need then and they need to be at the back.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebox View Post
Don't do away with the tube and it needs to be on the back for it to be of any use.
Dont mean to infringe on the post but Im doing an engine swap and I was going to remove the coolant tubes on the back of the cylinder heads but it seems like they are necessary. What is the purpose for those tubes? What would happen if I delete them?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 09:06 PM
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If you look at an intake for a gen 1 small block you'll notice that the intake has a passage way for coolant, which flows from head to head also the thermastat is located in the intake. when you look at an lt1's intake and head it only has the intake ports, no coolant.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-02-2010, 11:11 PM
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the purpose of the tube is to avoid pockets of steam from forming which can cause hot spots in the head which can cause detonation and damage to the head. yes people run without them without problems but is it worth the risk over such a cheap piece? no!!!

94 Z28: 383 12.5:1 forged 4340 crank, forged H beam rods, forged -5cc Mahle pistons, H series bearings all around, B&M flex plate, keyed hub, LE2 heads, custom LE grind, LE ported intake, BBK 58mm, LS7 lifters, comp hi-tech push rods, 1.6 nsa Pro mags, patriot golds, 42lb green tops, ARP bolts all around, canton 6qt pan, pacesetter coated long tubes backed by a magnaflow

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 02:40 PM
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Although you didn't ID the year of the engine, I assume it's a LT1. If I had this issue, I have a couple of options:

Swap the tubes from the front to the rear; which may be difficult especially on the passenger side. 15 mm six point box end wrench or socket, OR

Remove the heads and swap them.

You can fabrictate something that'll serve the purpose but, for me, that would be a last resort measure.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

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