1997 Camaro engine swap!!! HELP - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 1997 Camaro engine swap!!! HELP

I have a built 350 Carbureted engine backed with a 350 tranny with a shift kit and B&M shifter i'm wanting to put in my 97 Z28... The car has an LT1... but it isnt running, so I'm wanting to put my built engine in there. I need to know if my stock gauges will work? Will I have cut anything in my firewall to provide room for the distributor? Will the motor mounts work? What wiring will I need to change??? I neeeeedddddd help asap!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 02:28 PM
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need new motor mounts, some people sell adapters, or just but a k member with the right mounts in it. distributor...youll probably need to convert over to either a super super low-profile or need to move to a crank trigger, cause the back half of the engine is under the cowl, as far as gauges no sure and also not sure but you may need to modify the floor pan to fit the th350
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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Stock motor mounts should work. I don't see why they wouldn't. Tranny will fit no problem. Just have to make a tranny member along with going with a aftermarket tourqe arm.

It would leave the pcm in it. Figure out what wires you go to what. The temp gauge would work if you put the sensor in the head, Gas gauge would work, speedo probably would to if you figure that out. The volt gauge should work if you hook the wire on the alternator to it. Might have to run a different alternator. Oil pressure gauge should work also. As for the tach i have no clue if it will work with a distributer.

You have to get a aftermarker regulator for the electric pump. And wire it to a toggle switch or relay.


1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top, Stock cube, cc502 w/1.6's, Ls7 Lifters, Summit Pushrods/Guide Plates, 10.734:1, P&P Heads, Arp H/B's, P&p Intake, 30lber's, No Emissions, Flowmaster Catback, K&N Intake, Longtubes & Ory, Pro 5.0, 3pt connectors, Lowered 1.5in, 2.5 Cowl hood, ws6 wheels & Tune by Solomon

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 03:31 PM
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the motor mounts on a GEN I and a GEN II are different to be honest im not totally positive on the reason why, but i know bmr sells a different K member for standard SBC as well as LT and LS series stuff.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 03:38 PM
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I don't think the Alternator will work, i know with the Dash Harness unplugged it doesn't charge...


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 04:13 PM
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the ws6store.com sells a crossmember so u can put a th-350 into your comaro with no problem and it bolts right in.

In my opinion i would put a VFN fiberglass dash in and custom make the guages its goin to take a little more time and money but youll be able to get rid or your pcm and put wat ever guages you want in. A low profile distributer should fit under there.

drivetrain:383 all forged stroker, lt4 hot cam, afr heads with stage 2 porting, 58 mm tb, rpm gap intake manifold, and full bolt ons. hughs 4l60e, and strange 12 bolt with 4.11 gears

Suspension: bilstien shocks and struts, eiback pro springs, hotchkis swaybars and upper tower brace.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 04:31 PM
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also, might wanna relocate the alternator to the bottom side, cause i think it may stick up too high not sure though.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjektNitemare13 View Post
the motor mounts on a GEN I and a GEN II are different to be honest im not totally positive on the reason why, but i know bmr sells a different K member for standard SBC as well as LT and LS series stuff.
Huh? You can use a lt1 cradle on a ls1. And as far as i know the motor mounts bolt up the same place on the gen1. On reason i can think of a different k-member for a standard block would be to set lower or forward.

As for the alternator i didn't mean use the factory one. I mean use one like the factory one. Not sure how it would work though. It also won't stick up to far. Unless you use some odd alternator brackets.


1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top, Stock cube, cc502 w/1.6's, Ls7 Lifters, Summit Pushrods/Guide Plates, 10.734:1, P&P Heads, Arp H/B's, P&p Intake, 30lber's, No Emissions, Flowmaster Catback, K&N Intake, Longtubes & Ory, Pro 5.0, 3pt connectors, Lowered 1.5in, 2.5 Cowl hood, ws6 wheels & Tune by Solomon

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 07:49 PM
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http://www.nostar.net/?q=node/2

Here this guy did it. The motor mounts will work. Just have to figure out about the other 3rd hole.


1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top, Stock cube, cc502 w/1.6's, Ls7 Lifters, Summit Pushrods/Guide Plates, 10.734:1, P&P Heads, Arp H/B's, P&p Intake, 30lber's, No Emissions, Flowmaster Catback, K&N Intake, Longtubes & Ory, Pro 5.0, 3pt connectors, Lowered 1.5in, 2.5 Cowl hood, ws6 wheels & Tune by Solomon

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 02:12 PM
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well the K mebers ont he cars are dimensionally identical between all of the 4th gens., its the motor mounts that are different. and GEN I,II and III/IV motor mounts are different, as far as modding them to do what you want thats another story, but a stock LT1 mount will nto bolt up to a stock LS1 mount and neither will bolt up to a stock GEN I mount.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 02:21 PM
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I know the ls1 mounts are different. Hence why you would use them. But the k-member is the same or almost the same.

As for the lt1 mounts on a small block. I believe you would have to cut the ear off for the third hole that is used on the lt1. And either drill the 3rd hole. Or it might be there on the one mount. The other one i can't get a picture in my head of it. Either way its cheaper than a new k-member.


1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top, Stock cube, cc502 w/1.6's, Ls7 Lifters, Summit Pushrods/Guide Plates, 10.734:1, P&P Heads, Arp H/B's, P&p Intake, 30lber's, No Emissions, Flowmaster Catback, K&N Intake, Longtubes & Ory, Pro 5.0, 3pt connectors, Lowered 1.5in, 2.5 Cowl hood, ws6 wheels & Tune by Solomon

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 02:56 PM
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well yeah you dont need it im jus saying the motor mounts arent the same. thats all. but also if youre tossing a new engine in and looking for performance may as well put in the k member to handle the stress and reduce weight.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 03:00 PM
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I could swear i seen the aftermarket k weigh's more. Though i might be wrong. Stock does fine how ever. Though it would be easier for headers to fit and such.


1995 T/A M6: -Tops,390 Eagle Forged Fully Built Stroker,Procharged at 12lb'z(Currently Down)
1995 T/A M6:Hard Top, Stock cube, cc502 w/1.6's, Ls7 Lifters, Summit Pushrods/Guide Plates, 10.734:1, P&P Heads, Arp H/B's, P&p Intake, 30lber's, No Emissions, Flowmaster Catback, K&N Intake, Longtubes & Ory, Pro 5.0, 3pt connectors, Lowered 1.5in, 2.5 Cowl hood, ws6 wheels & Tune by Solomon

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 03:03 PM
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buddy of mine did the full tubular front so we could come closer to balancing the car and the K alone took about 35-40 off the nose and add the A arms and we were talkign liek 70 ish or somethign liek that, so it was fairly significant, but yeah stock would be ok. I jsut know id be going tubular cause i plan on road racing and need the extra durability as well as the weight savings.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 03:04 PM
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I read through the guys writeup and I must say that sounds like a ton of work to me. I realize Shelbe1991 is using a carbed engine but all the work to make the wiring work and the new crossmemebers hardly sounds worth it to me (cost and the labor). I'd sell the built SBC and the Trans and put the money into rebuilding the original LT1. You may have to put some money into the LT1 to make it perform as good as your built SBC but it would be much easier to just build the LT1 and not have to go through all the hassle. Just my Honest Opinion is all.

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