Discuss Lt1 383 build for more performance - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Lt1 383 build for more performance

We have decided to pull the motor out of the BabyBird 1994 Pontiac Forebird that caught fire
I figure it is a good time to recheck everything in the motor.
So having said that I would like to ask ifThere is anything I should change for better performance

This motor is going back in a street car that will see little track use mainly playing on emptie back raods

383 all forged bottom end
12 to 1 CR
Comp 292
1.6RR
COMP 185 Lofters (edit comp 850 lifters)
AFR heads 2.02 1.60 ported by LE
intake ported to match
58mm TB
36lb injector
It also has a 4l60e with 2800 yank converter I am looking to change to a 3600 yank
373 rear gear
other blot ons
CAI HEADERS TRUE DUEL EXAUEST you know the list

(Edit I also have electric water pump and double roller taming chain)

Feel free to let me know what y'all think

Last edited by Youngmattg; 05-18-2017 at 03:55 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 10:55 PM
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I would have Lloyd spec the cam when he does the AFR's vs the C 292

Comp 850 lifters
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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So you think the cam is the week link?
Spme one also told me to get bigger injectors what do you think?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 06:44 AM
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36 lb injectors are plenty big for what you're doing.

1996 ImpalaSS
Stock bottom LT1, Advanced Induction HR cam & ported GM heads
10.98 @ 122 NA
10.35 @ 128 on the 100 shot
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Youngmattg View Post
So you think the cam is the week link?
Spme one also told me to get bigger injectors what do you think?
I think a LE custom grind would be better than a off the shelf cam.

36 lb injectors are plenty for your build. Might want to check with your tuner on which brand he is most familiar with
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:57 AM
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12:1 compression ratio... that has the potential to make life difficult regarding tuning and knock. I am running 11.43:1 static, 8.59:1 dynamic and when it gets hot out (91 degrees ambient, IAT's of 120+ degrees), it can get hairy with knock

1995 LT1 Wagon. ERE 383

Last edited by AtlantaDan; 05-18-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:01 PM
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You are now at the point where the attention to detailing starts to have a small effect.

Reduce rotating mass.
increase compression. You have a pretty hefty cam so dynamic CR will be reasonably low.
Gapless rings
drilling out & smoothing oilways.
Oil pump ports can be detailed and smoothed.
I have 210 AFR Heads & the drivers front didn't have an oil drain hole. I think the heads do but not the block so i drilled it out to aid drain back.
smooth & blend the front & rear oil return holes in the block
Lifter valley vent tubes or block off the oil holes in the floor, stops the oil dripping all around the crank.
crank oil scrapers. I don't know if the stock windage tray is any good or can be improved.
Deeper sump to get oil away from crank or go dry sump.
ATI type damper i think weighs less than stock damper
Electric water pump This allows use of true roller timing chain.

Forced induction

Mitch

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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I sorry I forgot to mention I do have electric water pump and double roller timming chane is for the oil passages they where cleaned and smothed out when we did the motor work to start with.
I also had the rotating assembly was also race balanced and blue printed.

I do not want to sound like a stupid but what are gapless rings

I also will be talking to LE about a custom cam
thank you for the replies
Matt

Last edited by Youngmattg; 05-18-2017 at 04:09 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 02:38 PM
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Op

you should include a windage tray on the 383 build. You can use the stock one if you stand it off further than stock 1/8" using washers between it and the extended main studs that it attaches to.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Youngmattg View Post
I sorry I forgot to mention I do have electric water pump and double roller cam is for the oil passages they where cleaned and smothed out when we did the motor work to start with.
I also had the rotating assembly was also race balanced and blue printed.

I do not want to sound like a stupid but what are gapless rings

I also will be talking to LE about a custom cam
thank you for the replies
Matt
Also a thinner ring pack is supposedly good for a few hp but that would mean changing pistons.

TOTAL SEAL Gapless Top Ring Set
The ends of the rings don't have the usual gap between the ends. ie if you imagine 350 degrees the 10 degrees is the normal gap.
With the total seal the top ring is in two overlapping parts so there is no gap & this reduces blowby

Mitch

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'95 Z28 M6
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"just the odd mod."
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I will probable not change the ring unless it means major gain or when I break it down it needs it BUT I do want to make the changes that need to be made wile the motor is out of the car.

I talked to LE today and I sorry if I'm off a little but her recommended thematic custom grind 248-252 610lift on a 110lsa even bigger than the 292 I was surprised so I think that is what we will be going with. And if I got the specs wrong I will fix it after I talked to him
Matt
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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The cam LE spec to me was a 244-254 614-621lift on a 110
Matt
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