Cam only LT-1 Corvette, what bolt on next? - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Cam only LT-1 Corvette, what bolt on next?

Hey all I have a 6 speed 1994 Corvette that I got back on the road after a goofy VATS issue, and with the PCM for less tune the car runs great now. Any who I had a little run in with a Full bolt on 5.0 mustang with a 302 boss manifold. We were about even all the way through with his car pulling slightly in the last gear of the run.

Heres a video of the run when I was on Vacation in Mexico:

Ive beaten other 5.0s by a car or two before but this was the first one ive ran into with the boss302 intake, needless to say it really woke up the topend of the car.

My question to you guys is what other bolt on mods can I do to this thing to maybe keep this car off my tail a bit longer to pull off a win. My car has an PCM for less tune, AC delete, Longtube stainless headers, Granattelli MAF, 1.6RR and thats about it to my knowledge. As well as an MSD Coil. What other bolt ons are there that actually put down good proven results? From what I have read getting a Cold air intake won't really do much with corvette c4s as the stock does a pretty good job. I was looking into maybe an electric water pump or doing some of the free mods. Im going to take the air foil out of my z28 and put it in this car to see if that does any thing lol. Also do the throttle body bypass like the z28 as well. But thanks to all who respond, super happy with the car now , Id just be even happier being able to come around this guy lol. I know down the road I am planning on getting either the stock heads ported or getting a set of AFR's etc. The Cam is a Melling performance cam not very big .499in .502exh 113lsa. Pulls strong but seems to run out of steam in the upper 6k range.

Thanks
Tony
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Another video while on vacation of a buddies sweet LT-1 swapped 6speed nitrous Nova. He was on his nitrous tune not spraying either, nice beefy 292Comp cam.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 07:09 AM
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What cam does you car have, and what are it's specs? What rear gears are you running? I would expect a corvette lt1 with cam & headers to spank a 5.0 mustang badly.

Do you have a catback exhaust installed? And maybe a little stronger cam and pcm tune to support it.

How about your valve springs> Did you up grade them. Valve float can seriously slow your acceleration & top speed down.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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It's a melling performance cam shaft , a very uncommon choice I've seen from the usual cams to choose from ,installed by previous owner, with .600 lift springs and heads redone with a basic valve job, the cams specs were .499in .502exh with 218/220 duration. Not exactly a big cam by any means after the tune you can hardly hear it loping. Pulls great up too 6500rpm ,perhaps I am getting valve float up there. I am going to Dyno the car soon and see what the higher end of the graph looks like. Those new coyote 5.0s are no joke, and yes every 5.0 before this would i would be able to creep away and at about 2 cars ahead. From a dead stop it's pretty easy to stay ahead. It's just these roll runs where this boss 302 car has a great top end.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 11:48 AM
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your cam is more suited to stock heads and stops making power around 5k rpm. Getting the heads ported would give you more power

If you had more cam that makes power to 6k rpm you would be able to pull up top like the Boss car did to you

things like air foil will not hurt anything...just not any measurable gain by itself. It is just one of those "cumulative" mods that together add up when doing a larger TB, CAI & headers
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, looks like a set of ported heads are in my near future then, I just want to have every bolt on to maybe see with a race that close , if it will make a noticeable difference. I'm also going to look into a local Dyno tune, only issue is not many people have or know about the obd1 software around here
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 06:58 PM
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If your going to try ported heads, try Elliott port works. Lloyd can set you up with ported heads, springs, and a custom grind cam that will liven up your car

www.elliottsportworks.com

Last edited by cocobolo95; 09-08-2016 at 07:02 PM.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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To be honest I am pretty happy with the way the car performs in terms of drive ability as well, I feel that if the cam was any bigger I'd loose that . I'm really trying to keep it a true cam only and see what else I can give a run for there money, before pulling the trigger on the heads. I'm even starting to get the nitrous bug, even a safe 50shot would most likely get me my end goal of beating the 5.0s without an issue. Just a matter of safety and reliability come to mind immediately. I'll keep looking into those bolt ons, and I'll post back results I know the guy so we can run fairly often .thanks again for all the suggestion s guys .
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 11:25 AM
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if your valve springs were not replaced when the cam was done by PO and are original you should replace those. That will help upper RPM performance. Although a set of lloyd's heads would be better.

NOS is a quick go faster mod....but hard on hyper pistons. Not something I would do
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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The previous owner replaced the springs and valves , .600 springs with stock valves. I ordered my obd1 usb cable to maybe perfect the pcm for less tune it already has on the dyno , I bet I'm around 340-350ish to the wheels now , maybe another 10whp can be gained with a dyno tune. Well have too see. I saw some discouraging results in terms of hp gain with an electric water pump , so I'll hold off on that for now.Putting in air foil today and tb bypass as well.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 03:13 PM
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assuming you can find a "qualified" LT1 tuner on a dyno he likely can find some HP over a mail order tune. Maybe 10....given the $350-$500 that dyno tune may cost that is a high $ to pay for 10 hp

you would get that with a EWP. Any mechanical drag item you remove from the engine turning will "open" up more HP. Just like pulling the belt at the track typically yields at least .1xx in the 1/4 mi

with this said you will see the biggest HP gain with ported heads from LE. Then get a revised tune...IMHO from someone other than your current tuner
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I know what ya mean there, I think that especially since our water pumps aren't even belt driven. Not a wise mod to buy just for looking at extra hp car runs nice at temp how it is, 190ish that being said I know there can be gains made with the car running cooler , so a 160 thermostat can another way to add some cumulative power, I'm thinking that with me adding the Dyno tune , air foil ,tb bypass and the 160thermostat I could add hopefully another 10-12 on the dyno I will most likely have all the mods above before the actual dyno tune but atleast I can still do a before and after of the pcm for less then the actual Dyno tune. Should be interesting to see what's left on the table there.

On another note , I had a run with two interesting cars today , a cammed ls2 gto and a procharged 2v gt mustang. Both cars around 400whp the gto I was able to pull around rather easy by a length of 2+ cars while the gt was absolutely neck and neck all the way to top of 4th , my question is even though I'm not making any more power past say 6000 is it still beneficial for me to rev the car to 6400-500ish to shift and be right back in my power band versus having to shift sooner and maybe lose ground because of shift timing itself. I guess the Dyno will also tell me how much power is going down after peak.

Thanks again for the interest , I'll put up the vids of the two cars tonight .
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 10:57 AM
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the cam you have likely stops making power about 5400 rpm so you would shift about 500 rpm higher than that max....shifting at 6400 rpm on a stock bottom end will get you to a new motor rebuild fast

a dyno graph will show when the HP starts to fall off
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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The motor was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago, but none the less I have read that much past 6000 will make the rod bolts unhappy
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 12:42 PM
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yeah if the rod bolts are stock. Ideally when the motor was rebuilt the rods were re-sized and ARP fasteners were installed

Still no need to spin your motor that high with the cam you have. It stopped making power long before 6400
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