Is it worth it to keep the fans on to lower the engime temps via tune? Lower temps are good, fans on alternator drag is bad. Whatcha think?

Hi guys,

I posted yesterday about looking for an adapter fitting for the T56 LT1 slave cylinder -- summit sells two different fittings, one is AN-3, the other is AN-4. I'm not sure which one I would need. I am using a Stage 1 clutch, not performance oriented as far as I know. Both of the fittings are similar in price.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-641001/ (AN-4)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/ (AN-3)

Does that extra 1/16 of an inch really matter? I've been told a few different things by a few different places, and I just wanted to get ya'lls opinion on this.

Thanks!

Tyler

I have a 1995 formula with 89,000 miles. I have already replaced the sensor located on the engine block which signals the temp guage on the dash thinking that by replacing it would work. Wrong. The temp guage now only works when I reset the ECM and after shutting the car off and upon starting it, the guage goes faulty again( the needle does not move). Any suggestions? Also, I replaced the thermo to a 160 thinking ehh maybe that would do it but nope. I'm stumped.:mad:

Hey guys, my friend has a 94 firebird 3.4. He drove through some huge puddles this morning on his way to drill, and on his was home his car was sputtering and having some smoke come out the tailpipe everytime he was coming to a stop. It ran fine as long as he wasn't coming to a stop. I was thinking maybe the crank sensor or coil??? I'm not too familiar with the 6, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

MOTORSPORTS EDITOR MAC MORRISON: I like this Camaro, but I don't love it, and that bums me out. I want it to be everything I hoped for, but it just doesn't quite satisfy me or provide the exact type of driving thrill I look for.

More...

i have a custom grind lunati cam in excellent shape..doesnt even have 200 miles on it.Sold car and no longer need it.It is for LT1 motors.

Specs:
226in/234ex
.535 in&ex with 1.5
.575 in&ex with 1.6
113 LSA

$180 or best offer shipped

i have an P.I. 3200 stall WITH lockup that i bought from a highly popular seller here on tech.has low mile on it and is in great shape.my car ended up with a bad motor and i sold it so i no longer have use for it.this stall fits LT1 cars and if im not mistaken C5 vettes also.

$425 shipped gets it to your doorstep.Thanks!

lulz thats what

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJaHHC95OPc

does anybody know what the weight of a stock piston and rod is? seperate or together either way is fine

for sale is a good working ac compressor from a 97 trans am-80$ +shipping
also have all the hoses for sale too-make offer with needs

looking for a front drivers side fender and front bumper cover for a 1997 firebird trans am,that is white in color and in good condition.
please pm me if you have anything.-thanks

here's just a couple little burnouts. I was getting new tires so me and my buddies were celebrating! If the video is choppy, take it off of HD mode.


http://vimeo.com/14707560

Next year I'm going to lower my 93 z28 and upgrade all the suspension components. Is it always better to have adjustable suspension components? Are they necessary after you lower a car? Any help/schooling is appreciated :D Thanks

Where does the water temp sensor read from the water pump or the side of the driver side of the block. My gauge is actin crazy I'm just going to install a aftermarket one. It's a 95 formula

I have an LT4 with a 4L60E trans in a street rod. The car has a 9" Ford rear end with 3:00 gears. The Torque converter does not lock up in 4th gear automatically, so I put a (temporary) switch in line to manually lock the converter. The car cruises at around 75MPH while tacking around 1750 RPM. I realize my solution is dangerous and not a long term fix. My question is: what internally causes the converter to lock under normal "stock" applications, is it some sort of line pressure? or is it RPM? computer? or? How can I get the converter to lock/unlock at say 1700 RPM in 4TH gear automatically?

So looking at the LT1 Pro kit vs the LS1 Pro kit....

The front springs are different, clearly.. the LT1's are progressive at 377/600, while the LS1's are linear at 400.

But the rears are the same rate, both listed as progressive 80/137. The only difference is the LT1 is listed as a 1.3" drop, while the LS1 is listed as a 1.2" drop.

So my question is..... (On a 93) could you run LT1 Eibach front springs with LS1 Eibach rears without issue? The .1" seems negligible, and if anything will give a VERY subtle raked look, which I like.

Has this ever been done or discussed before? The main reason I'm looking into this is because my buddy gave me a set of brand new Eibach pro springs for the front, and now I need a set of rears. I see tons of the LS1 springs up for sale, but the LT1 seems harder to come by.