Hello all,
I'm having a problem with my 00 T/A which I put a DMH e-cutout on a while back. Basically, when it's open and the engine is cold I can't let off the gas without it popping or backfiring. Decelerating down a hill while it's cold will make it pop loudly, but if I'm accelerating or letting off the gas quickly for whatever reason it will often backfire. This is all only while it's cold; once it warms up a minute it's fine. Any ideas on this?

Thanks

Alright guys, i have been following many different threads and sites to diagnose my problem. The car is a 95 formula with a 6spd, 150,483 Miles.


Problem------car runs great for about the first 5 min, till it reaches opperating temp. then at about 2500 rpms it has a missfire. sometimes i can accelerate through it. i get horrible gas milelage about 8 or 10 to the gallon.

What I have done to try and fix this problem.

1-plugs
2-wires
3-coil
4-reset pcm

Problem Number 2----the car is hard to start sometimes so i checked the fuel pressure and this is how it reads

Ing on-- 0 psi
Motor at idle-- 32psi
And as soon as i turn the engine off it goes straight to zero..

So i changed the injectors o rings and still have low fuel pressure and zero when it is suppose to be priming the system.



In conclusion i belive these are 2 sepereate problems but i could be wrong any help would be appreciated:werd:

Hey guys, i need some help/advice from you. I just had some new tires put on and an wheel alignment done. As im driving home in traffic i hear a slight little knock sound when i hit the brake. I dont hear everytime i hit the brakes. Just sometimes. Anyone know what the problem is? thanks

I was like WTF. CRAZY!!!!! and LUCKY!
http://www.ktul.com/news/stories/110...?ref=newsstory

what do you think? i kinda like it... the hood graphic i think could have some more detail to it and better transfer blend to the black hood but over all... ya don't see an F-body hood pop up like that every day ! i give it the blackhawk seal of approval

i went on the impala forum and didnt find anything about this problem i have. short story i had 2 codes p0200 and p0300, i was driving and the car pretty much stalled rpms went to zero and i let off the gas as soon as it did it and it came back to life.. went inside the shop came back out and the car would stumble really bad and shake so i finally got it to run good enought to get it home then took a nap cam back out the car did the same again.. when i turn the key on and off you cant hear the pump and you cant see it come out the fuel line.. i dropped the tank of course my friend got there and told me how to bypass the relay and we got the pump to run.. i replace the pump relay and it didnt do anything when i turned the key on and off but the relay does click twice.. still cant figure out the problem? im thinking its a cut wire.. my friend by passed the relay by touch one end of a wire to the termenal on the fuse box then the other end of the wire to a plug connector thats not plugged close to the fuse box

What is the maximum safe RPM's on 2 bolt mains in a 383 or 396 would be using ARP studs, forged crank, H-beam rods and forged pistons.
Thanks
Brad

I'm in the process of tearing down an 1996 LT1 motor and can not remove the water pump intermediate drive unit from the block. I have removed the two torx screws that attaches it to the block. Before I pull out the BFH, does anyone know how I would release this part from the block in a civil manner?

Would like to have this part off before I send the block to the machine shop.

more i look through the threads..i was wrong most of the time but felt like you guys were giving me shit more than help. so thats why i didnt want to believe anyone and just argue..

my bad everyone sorry

The first time they have all been clean at the same time (damn black:lol:). I thought I would take a pic since it will probably never happen again.



...and few of just the twins...

I have an OEM distributor cap and rotor for a 94' LT1 for sale for $50+shipping.

I purchased a new opti from "thepartsladi" and swapped out my MSD cap and rotor on the new one. These parts have never been installed and come with new bolts for the cap and new screws for the rotor. The isolator doesn't come with it, but isn't needed for just a cap and rotor swap.

i went on the impala forum and didnt find anything about this problem i have. short story i had 2 codes p0200 and p0300, i was driving and the car pretty much stalled rpms went to zero and i let off the gas as soon as it did it and it came back to life.. went inside the shop came back out and the car would stumble really bad and shake so i finally got it to run good enought to get it home then took a nap cam back out the car did the same again.. when i turn the key on and off you cant hear the pump and you cant see it come out the fuel line.. i dropped the tank of course my friend got there and told me how to bypass the relay and we got the pump to run.. i replace the pump relay and it didnt do anything still cant figure out the problem?

From 1960s Chevelles to modern Camaros, speedy Chevrolets have always been identified with two letters: SS.

More...

I have for sale my buddies HOT CAM KIT just removed with 7000 miles on it.upgrading to the comp 306..will be complete,1.6 rrs,springs,locks,retainers,shims,poly locks and cam .One of the shims grew legs and walked away.so its missing one shim..I think it can be bought seperate from Gm..price is reflecting the missing shim..450.00 SHIPPED in the USA.:thumbsup:

I want to put 98+ front right and left fenders on my 95 without changing anything else. Can this be done?
if so how. What mods are needed