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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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95 z28 no sound from speakers

just got a 95 z and put a kenwood hu in it that i know works. put brand new kicker 6 1/2 front and back all connections butt connected and hu has the adapter, no splicing or hacking. hu comes on but no sound from speakers, static from radio, cd or anything. i looked in the back and the factory amp and sub are gone, just the plugs so im guessing it has something to do with it. what do i have to do to bypass it or is there any other way that i can get sound without the sub and amp? thanks in advance guys
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:03 PM
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Your best bet is to pull all your speakers. Note the colors of each wire at each location. Then note the colors of each wire for each speaker behind the head unit after the adapter. Then go to where the stock amp is removed and splice the wires that correspond by location to each other.

Should work after that.

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1995 Camaro Z28 LT1 LE2 355, 230/238 .565/.565" 110+6, 1.6:1 SA RR, LT Headers with ORY, T-56 (rebuilt w/ some upgrades), McLeod Street Twin, Lowered 1.25" (Stagg Shocks and Summit Springs) LCA Relocation brackets, Adj Panhard Bar, Poly suspension bushings, STB , CAI, !emissions crap, Magna Flow Cat Back. 146,xxx miles. Purchased Feb 7, 2012 (135K) 414rwhp
2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback- Stock (Wifes Ride)

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:05 PM
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What stock set up did you have? If it was Bose factory set up, aftermarket HU won't work with it. You'll have to replace all the speakers.

If you aren't sure what you originally had, you can check the RPO code list in the glove box for UU8 U1T, they are the codes for factory Bose. If you have UQ0, you had the base radio/speaker system.

Neither system had the factory amp like the Pontiac's 10 speaker system, but the Bose did have an amplifier mounted in the rear hatch area enclosed with the rear speaker which powered the two sail panel subwoofers along with the the rear hatch speaker it's enclosed with. The two front door speakers have amplifiers at each speaker location. The Bose head unit puts out a very low level signal, which is why an aftermarket HU that puts out speaker level signals aren't compatible.

1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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The sub cover in the trunk says bose. I noticed that the colors in the factory harness don't match to the colors at the speakers. So if I splice the corresponding wires together at the sub harness I should get sound? There are two plugs back there, which one is the right one?
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:26 PM
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it should. Do you have a multimeter?

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1995 Camaro Z28 LT1 LE2 355, 230/238 .565/.565" 110+6, 1.6:1 SA RR, LT Headers with ORY, T-56 (rebuilt w/ some upgrades), McLeod Street Twin, Lowered 1.25" (Stagg Shocks and Summit Springs) LCA Relocation brackets, Adj Panhard Bar, Poly suspension bushings, STB , CAI, !emissions crap, Magna Flow Cat Back. 146,xxx miles. Purchased Feb 7, 2012 (135K) 414rwhp
2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback- Stock (Wifes Ride)
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, only a power probe.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:05 PM
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You won't get sound unless the speakers get replaced. The Bose's speakers are not your typical speaker. From what I've researched, the Bose amplifiers take the very low level signal (lower than line level) from the Bose HU, amplify that, but to a level still significantly lower than speaker level (actually closer to, but higher than line level).

To make it work you will have to go back to a Bose HU, or replace the Bose speaker/amplifier set up with more standard speakers.

1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the stock speakers. I've got kickers in the doors and back seat area.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:33 PM
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The wires coming off the deck are different colors than the ones in the car. So you have to match those to the harness behind the adapter (take note of which ones correspond to the schematic located on the actual hu you installed). Then go to each speaker and note the color of each wire at each location. Again note each one at each location. Now go to the plugs where the stock amplifier was located. Match, by location, each corresponding colors to each location by the notes you have taken. This will work.

Or run new wires from the deck to each speaker.

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1995 Camaro Z28 LT1 LE2 355, 230/238 .565/.565" 110+6, 1.6:1 SA RR, LT Headers with ORY, T-56 (rebuilt w/ some upgrades), McLeod Street Twin, Lowered 1.25" (Stagg Shocks and Summit Springs) LCA Relocation brackets, Adj Panhard Bar, Poly suspension bushings, STB , CAI, !emissions crap, Magna Flow Cat Back. 146,xxx miles. Purchased Feb 7, 2012 (135K) 414rwhp
2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback- Stock (Wifes Ride)
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:35 PM
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Okay, well there's three speaker wires that run from the HU to the Bose amp connector (the larger connector); brown (left +), dark blue (right +), and green/white (speaker common). The additional wires that run to the rear sail panel speakers from the amp connector are dark blue/white (left +), light green/black (left -), dark green (right +), light blue/black (right -).

The left front speaker should have a tan wire (left +), and white wire (front common), and the right front should have a light green (right +), and also the white common wire. These come directly from the HU.

I would work on getting the fronts working first, since they don't use any of the wiring from the rear amp. There are also power wires running to the front speakers (orange is +, black -), which were used by the Bose speaker/amp enclosures to amplify the signal at the speaker location. They should not be used with your set up.

1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:37 PM
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Of course if someone went in there are ran additional wires or removed original wiring, this info may not be of much help. Then you'll need to run some continuity tests.

1995 Firehawk #528 resto-mod underway

Planned 383 rebuild: 195cc competition LT4 AFR heads, custom cam grind (still debating specs), 6" or 5.85" rods, forged internals

Upgraded T56: Viper mainshaft and 2nd gear, steel 3/4 shift fork, Billet keys 1-4, bronze shifter cup, internals Cryo'd and REM'd
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, just wanted to make sure I understood what u were saying. Hopefully the kickers will sound good even without the sub and amp. Never had this problem puttin a system in before lol. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you guys now how it turns out.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thankfully they didn't run any new wires or cut anything out so i should be ok.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:41 PM
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Good post 95 firehawk. Honestly though, that stock Bose system in the gen 4 f-body its straight up amazing. The kickers will not stand a chance to a stock Bose set up. But if that isn't am option kicker is a good choice.

Personally I would run all new wires throughout. Better noise reduction and clarity compared to the stock crappy wires.

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1995 Camaro Z28 LT1 LE2 355, 230/238 .565/.565" 110+6, 1.6:1 SA RR, LT Headers with ORY, T-56 (rebuilt w/ some upgrades), McLeod Street Twin, Lowered 1.25" (Stagg Shocks and Summit Springs) LCA Relocation brackets, Adj Panhard Bar, Poly suspension bushings, STB , CAI, !emissions crap, Magna Flow Cat Back. 146,xxx miles. Purchased Feb 7, 2012 (135K) 414rwhp
2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback- Stock (Wifes Ride)
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Never heard the bose so guess I won't miss it lol. I think the kickers will be plenty.
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