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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Torque Converter

Hello guys,

I have recently rebuilt the Transmission in my 97 blazer. I Have everything reinstalled and running. The transmission shifts great, up and down, locks up fine also..

My question is this, at idle I have a strange vibration that kinda oscillates if that makes since at all. Example, thinking of a clock spinning around, the vibration only happens between 6-9 oclock it's smooth between 10-5.

No noise under or around the truck, but you can feel the vibration in the pedals and hear it in the cab. TC is a cheep new one. I have right around 175 miles on the transmission now. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Dusty
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 09:19 PM
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Does the vibration ever go away? Does it get worse, better or stay the same if you brake stall it?

Frank
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 01:31 AM
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Two thought come to mind: loose TC bolt or crack in the flywheel.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Smile

The vibration does not seem to be constant, more prevalent at lower rpms. I have not tried a stall test yet will do that today.. This vibration was not present before the rebuild. Hard for me to explain it in words, but its kinda a vibration slash groan you can feel....

Bolts could be loose I guess but I used locktite and torqued em down 30 pounds or so..

Thank you for the help!!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 09:31 AM
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One way to check if it's a converter is to unbolt it from the fleplate and slide it back. If the vibration isn't there with it unbolted then you might want to consider the converter is out of balance. Torque converters are balanced just like a tire. You add weight to the light area..

Frank
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Cahall During the stall test nothing seemed out of the ordinary, no vibrations or anything. Guess the next step will be to unbolt the TC
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cahall View Post
One way to check if it's a converter is to unbolt it from the fleplate and slide it back. If the vibration isn't there with it unbolted then you might want to consider the converter is out of balance. Torque converters are balanced just like a tire. You add weight to the light area..

Frank
This is exactly what I was going to suggest... Frank beat me to it! Sounds like you got a bad converter.

1995 Camaro Z-28, M6, 396 stroker, Scat forged 3.875" crank, Scat Ultra Q-Lite 6" H-beams, Icon forged pistons (4.030"), splayed 4 bolt w/ARP studs, 12.25:1, AFR 210 heads (2.08"/1.6", 58cc), Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD 1.7:1 rockers, GM847 cam (234/242 .611"/.632"), Edelbrock LT4 air-gap intake, Spec Stage 3+ clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, 24x conversion, 0411 PCM, TPIS 58mm, Bosch III 42# injectors, Aeromotive 340, Kook's stepped LT's, Kook's custom stainless 3-1/2" merge ORY, Magnaflow
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 02:27 PM
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Yea it does sound like a bad TC, If you want to spend a little extra money Jump to a stall converter if they have that for your vehicle. If your planning on building on it that is.

95 Trans am A4 transmission, PaceSetter Long Tubes, AIR & EGR deleted, Flow Master 40 series, CAT removed, TB bypass, 160 deg thermo, Slp trick flow dual CAI , Royal purple rear end fluid, Royal purple Engine oil, Removed spare tire+Jack, rear seats, rear seat belts and buckle rolls, removed head liner and scraped sound deadening, removed carpet, and underhood liner, removed AC . 295/50r/15z rear tires.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
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Yea it does sound like a bad TC, If you want to spend a little extra money Jump to a stall converter if they have that for your vehicle. If your planning on building on it that is.
Every torque converter has a stall speed, it's just a matter of what rpm it stalls at. Unless you're planning big mods to the Blazer, I'd stick with the stock stall speed. The stock stall speed for a 4.3 S-10 Blazer is about 1600-1800 rpm. (I had the unfortunate privilege of doing two 4.3 transmissions this week - one Blazer, one Astro van...)

Overstalling a vehicle that doesn't need it is nothing short of annoying after about 15 minutes...

1995 Camaro Z-28, M6, 396 stroker, Scat forged 3.875" crank, Scat Ultra Q-Lite 6" H-beams, Icon forged pistons (4.030"), splayed 4 bolt w/ARP studs, 12.25:1, AFR 210 heads (2.08"/1.6", 58cc), Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD 1.7:1 rockers, GM847 cam (234/242 .611"/.632"), Edelbrock LT4 air-gap intake, Spec Stage 3+ clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, 24x conversion, 0411 PCM, TPIS 58mm, Bosch III 42# injectors, Aeromotive 340, Kook's stepped LT's, Kook's custom stainless 3-1/2" merge ORY, Magnaflow
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
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Yea it does sound like a bad TC, If you want to spend a little extra money Jump to a stall converter if they have that for your vehicle. If your planning on building on it that is.
WHat exactly is a "stall" converter......and how is it different from a 'torque' converter?

KW

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic396 View Post

...Overstalling a vehicle that doesn't need it is nothing short of annoying after about 15 minutes...
Not to mention the excess heat especially if you plan on towing.



Yep its slow.

Making the world a warmer place one gallon at a time.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
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Not to mention the excess heat especially if you plan on towing.
Absolutely. Not only would it create heat like the end of the world was coming, but it wouldn't get out of its own way...

On almost every Ford and Dodge diesel transmission that I build (and I build a ton of them), I actually lower the stall speed by about 250-300 rpm - that is, if the customer can afford it... Lowering the stall speed takes better advantage of the low-end torque that the diesels produce.

Torque converter stall speed is all about where the torque is produced. You must choose wisely...!

1995 Camaro Z-28, M6, 396 stroker, Scat forged 3.875" crank, Scat Ultra Q-Lite 6" H-beams, Icon forged pistons (4.030"), splayed 4 bolt w/ARP studs, 12.25:1, AFR 210 heads (2.08"/1.6", 58cc), Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD 1.7:1 rockers, GM847 cam (234/242 .611"/.632"), Edelbrock LT4 air-gap intake, Spec Stage 3+ clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, 24x conversion, 0411 PCM, TPIS 58mm, Bosch III 42# injectors, Aeromotive 340, Kook's stepped LT's, Kook's custom stainless 3-1/2" merge ORY, Magnaflow
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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yea definitely keeping the blazer stock. MY Trans am will get the mods
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 03:05 PM
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I was saying yea get a lower stall speed tq converter it might help with the rattling, my gpa has one in his old trans am that has a 454 wildcat, the original tq converter was just making it hard on you at idle, bcuz the car would shake hard, and vibrate, but then he got a good stall converter and the car literally stopped shaking, and vibrating at idle.

95 Trans am A4 transmission, PaceSetter Long Tubes, AIR & EGR deleted, Flow Master 40 series, CAT removed, TB bypass, 160 deg thermo, Slp trick flow dual CAI , Royal purple rear end fluid, Royal purple Engine oil, Removed spare tire+Jack, rear seats, rear seat belts and buckle rolls, removed head liner and scraped sound deadening, removed carpet, and underhood liner, removed AC . 295/50r/15z rear tires.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 03:06 PM
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And he still as that same car to this very day no problems at all out of it. This was several years ago.

95 Trans am A4 transmission, PaceSetter Long Tubes, AIR & EGR deleted, Flow Master 40 series, CAT removed, TB bypass, 160 deg thermo, Slp trick flow dual CAI , Royal purple rear end fluid, Royal purple Engine oil, Removed spare tire+Jack, rear seats, rear seat belts and buckle rolls, removed head liner and scraped sound deadening, removed carpet, and underhood liner, removed AC . 295/50r/15z rear tires.
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