Are dyno runs hard on the clutch?

[maximumrebel1]

I'm still running the stock clutch. It won't hold on the street if I drop it hard, think it will be ok on the dyno?

[Mr.Attitude]

shouldn't be bad. what kinda dyno are you gonna be going on? Mustang? Really I'd only be worried with a Mustang since it theres alot more load but even then I really wouldn't break a sweat. The person dynoing isn't gonna be dropping the clutch or anything, just normal shifting up to 4th gear, then letting it get down in RPM's in forth then just stepping on the gas. Take your car out, drive around and make a bunch of 4th gear pulls, if the clutch holds those it should hold on the dyno.

[DocBowtie]

what he said ^ :grin2:

[Mr.Attitude]

what he said ^ :grin2:

LIAR! :engarde:

[DocBowtie]

what he said ^ :grin2:

LIAR! :engarde:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/STFU.gif

http://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/chuck-ball.gif

[Vertigo]

Jon, we've talked about this online too, but there's nothing harder on a clutch that slipping it on a dyno, because it weighs so much more than your car (well mine does, Dynojet 248x 6600# total drum weight) so we let it out quickly without dumping it. And then I shift straight to 4th, less wear and tear. And then we hammer it.

On the higher HP cars, it sometimes won't hold, so we just start at a higher rpm, and then it'll usually hold. If you smell the clutch, then your day is done, you're not getting a good power reading I can promise you.

I dyno a lot of late model stock cars (entry level NASCAR guys) and many of them have mini clutches that don't take to a lot of abuse. Sometimes the drivers want to be super smooth on the dyno and slip out the clutch every time, and by the end of the day the clutch is toast. The guys who drive it like the stole it on the dyno never have clutch problems, unless they were already having them.

I've only had 3-4 cars have clutch issues on the dyno, and 2 of those didn't have enough break in miles yet.

YMMV and all that jazz, but that's my experience...
-jeff

[maximumrebel1]

Jon, we've talked about this online too, but there's nothing harder on a clutch that slipping it on a dyno, because it weighs so much more than your car (well mine does, Dynojet 248x 6600# total drum weight) so we let it out quickly without dumping it. And then I shift straight to 4th, less wear and tear. And then we hammer it.

On the higher HP cars, it sometimes won't hold, so we just start at a higher rpm, and then it'll usually hold. If you smell the clutch, then your day is done, you're not getting a good power reading I can promise you.

I dyno a lot of late model stock cars (entry level NASCAR guys) and many of them have mini clutches that don't take to a lot of abuse. Sometimes the drivers want to be super smooth on the dyno and slip out the clutch every time, and by the end of the day the clutch is toast. The guys who drive it like the stole it on the dyno never have clutch problems, unless they were already having them.

I've only had 3-4 cars have clutch issues on the dyno, and 2 of those didn't have enough break in miles yet.

YMMV and all that jazz, but that's my experience...
-jeff

Yeah, I asked you about it online, but I like to see what other folks experiences are too. I'm going to bring it in on a trailer just in case. :eek2:

[slper]

What is the difference b/t a regular dyno and a mustang dyno?

[mySStery_machine]

I can't believe nobody has answered this yet...lol. I'm too tired or I would. :bs:

[Mr.Attitude]

What is the difference b/t a regular dyno and a mustang dyno?

not 100% sure what the actual stats are but basically a mustang dyno puts a ton more load on the car and trys to simulate actual driving conditions. you have to program a mustang dyno with DA, temp, and stuff (i believe) and people screw that up alot.

[Mr.Attitude]

The Mustang Dyno: You can hold a static load point for an extended period. This is CRUCIAL when mapping an ECU for a standalone system, and then can set up some nice driving dynamics for a 'test drive" for drivability and overall "road feel" for the combination. Tt is a great way to ring out a chassis and find harmonic resonances, exhaust problems, etc etc etc...

A Dynojet is a different animal and good for general testing of the curves, but using it beyond that capability and without a WBO2 your tuning is far harder than with the Mustang.

As far as numbers being different from one dynojet to another depends on which software they use. older dynojets, like the one used at www.vincihighperformance.com uses the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAF) standard J1349 Rev JUN90. Correcting to SAE J1349 alters the data to make it seem as if it was taken when the atmospheric pressure was 29.23 in/hg., the temperature 77?F and the humidity zero.

the newer dynojets use the "standard corrected," popular with aftermarket manufacturers (no doubt because it uses 29.92 in/hg and 68?F' to get bigger numbers).

[Vertigo]

You got a lot of that wrong.

The newer dynojets have built in, non-optional weather stations, which correct to SAE, Standard, non-corrected, DIN and EEC. They also have load control options just like the Mustang, these are called Dynatrak (which I have on my Dynojet) and Load Control (depending on model).

I tune out of MSP in Maryland, which does the quickest and fastest Supras on the planet, and they regularly load thier Supras to 60# of boost without the use of a load control device, they use a high intertia model like mine, so the whole load thing is an argument perpetrated by people using different dynos, or arguments against chassis dynos in general.

Dynojets are more consistent because there's fewer ways for the operatior to "cheat" -- all they really have is correction factor, and that prints on the graph, so without photoshop, it's going to obvious. I'd had cars that dynoed on a Mustang dyno run by a decent operator (i.e. entered the correct data into the thing) and their car made within 2% of their previous numbers when using SAE correction on both, they wanted to know where thier huge Dynojet HP bump was, it's not there, if the operators of both machines are competent.

Standard corrected (and some of the shops around here use UNCORRECTED in the winter to make the numbers look better) is just bunk. Yesterday at my shop for example at 400 rwhp SAE, we were at 425 uncorrected and 421 standard corrected. What a crock! Obviously those numbers are not going to work on a poor air day.

This whole dyno argument is like the computer world... Dynojet is the Microsoft Windows, people hate them because they are popular, but everyone has one so you can compare the numbers from them more easially. The competitors make up stuff about them to make their stuff look better, when in reality it's all about the same stuff. Mustang is very inexpensive compared to the others on the market, and is just a low cost also-ran of the industry. The SuperFlow is the Macintosh, fewer people have them, they are expensive, but they are a LOT better. Land and Sea is almost as cool as the SuperFlow. Some of the other dynos on the market allow you to even enter a "correction factor" that's applied to the numbers and won't print on the graphs. I've seen bolt on Corvettes "put down" 450 to the wheels because the shop owner told the owner it would! Of course they only trap 108 at the track, but hey! They have a graph!

Dynos are just a tool, and in the hands of a good operator a very useful tool. I chose Dynojet, and would again because of the industry standard market presense, the accuracy from visit to visit of pure inertia (no hydraulic fluid to change viscosity and therefore power levels) and the reasonable pricing compared to the "Corvette" of the dyno world -- Superflow. If I had the money, I'd get me a Superflow, it's got some nice bells and whistles that would make my life a little better.

Just my $.0002 but I've plinked down more than a Corvette costs, so I did some research....
-jeff

[obseSSed]

Interesting post, I will be on a mustang dyno on wednesday. I will let everyone know how it goes

[nwavetteman]

I may have some dyno video's of a C4 thats fully built with a 300 shot by the end of tommroow for all of you to enjoy. Now time to get to the post....



Dynojet: There is a ton less stress on your car running on the dyno than on the street. look at it like this.... Jack the rear end of your car up. Spin the tires by hand and see how easy it is. Then take the rear end out of the car and pick it up. You realize total weight doesn't mean poo poo, it's all about how hard it is to turn it. In order for a car to have a harder time on the dyno than on the street it would need to be virtually weightless. When the brake is off a dynojet dyno you can run on the drums and get them spinning with your feet like nothing. Takes a lot less effort to spin the drums with your feet than it does to push a car.... I say go for it.


Mustang: I got no clue.... Never had a chance to work with them.

[Mr.Attitude]

as i recall over at speed inc they were messing around one day and hooked a bicycle up to the dyno and i think they got 13 rwhp or something? :bs:

[mySStery_machine]

I may have some dyno video's of a C4 thats fully built with a 300 shot by the end of tommroow for all of you to enjoy.


POST THEM UP!! I will be looking for that...will be very interesting.

[nwavetteman]

I may have some dyno video's of a C4 thats fully built with a 300 shot by the end of tommroow for all of you to enjoy.


POST THEM UP!! I will be looking for that...will be very interesting.

Plans fell through and they double booked. Even though we didn't get that, video's for both cars are in the works. If you guys want I can get you pics as they sit now to hold you off :)

[Mr.Attitude]

PICS PICS PICS!

[Euclid]

^ im with him...


note to john.. get a "im with stupid" smilie...

Edit: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/White91rs/smilies/icon_smile_stupid.gif

[nwavetteman]

Do you guys have a place where I can host them???

[marianne125]

yayay! :hail: