stewy37
11-03-2006, 01:07 PM
Well, a couple days ago, I got a new remote for my car and programmed both it and my old one. Things were just fine until this morning. I went to go start my car and it decided that wasn't going to happen.
When I turn the key, the security light comes on and the car won't start. After a while, it turns off. Also, the little red light on the dash never stops flashing. I looked on www.shbox.com (http://www.shbox.com) and found this:
"If the key pellet is the wrong value, the TDM will not send signals to allow the starter to engage or fuel to the engine. The TDM will shut down for ~3 minutes and the SECURITY lamp will remain lit with the key ON or OFF. When the ~3 minute timer has expired and the key is cycled from OFF to ON, the TDM timer is reset. If you try a key with the correct pellet value, the engine should start and run. SECURITY lamp should be off. If there is still a problem with reading the key, the TDM will light the SECURITY lamp and start the ~3 minute timer again."
This looks to be my problem. I tried cleaning the key, and that didn't work. I'm not sure if my reprogramming the remotes contributed to this or not. I also found this about diagnosis on www.thirdgen.org (http://www.thirdgen.org) (not sure if this would apply to my car, but seems like it would except for the wire colors)
"DIAGNOSIS:
The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down, you ll be needing it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and for alot of money or bypass the system for less than a dollar. "
Anyway, I'm going to bum a ride to Radio Shack and pick up a multimeter, measure the resistance of my key, and pick up a resistor to bypass the system. I'm not going to start cutting sires and soldering stuff until I'm sure that will fix it.
Does it sound like I'm on the right track, or is there somethign else I should look at?
When I turn the key, the security light comes on and the car won't start. After a while, it turns off. Also, the little red light on the dash never stops flashing. I looked on www.shbox.com (http://www.shbox.com) and found this:
"If the key pellet is the wrong value, the TDM will not send signals to allow the starter to engage or fuel to the engine. The TDM will shut down for ~3 minutes and the SECURITY lamp will remain lit with the key ON or OFF. When the ~3 minute timer has expired and the key is cycled from OFF to ON, the TDM timer is reset. If you try a key with the correct pellet value, the engine should start and run. SECURITY lamp should be off. If there is still a problem with reading the key, the TDM will light the SECURITY lamp and start the ~3 minute timer again."
This looks to be my problem. I tried cleaning the key, and that didn't work. I'm not sure if my reprogramming the remotes contributed to this or not. I also found this about diagnosis on www.thirdgen.org (http://www.thirdgen.org) (not sure if this would apply to my car, but seems like it would except for the wire colors)
"DIAGNOSIS:
The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down, you ll be needing it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and for alot of money or bypass the system for less than a dollar. "
Anyway, I'm going to bum a ride to Radio Shack and pick up a multimeter, measure the resistance of my key, and pick up a resistor to bypass the system. I'm not going to start cutting sires and soldering stuff until I'm sure that will fix it.
Does it sound like I'm on the right track, or is there somethign else I should look at?