Hooker Full Length Headers

[Superchief]

Just wondering if anyone has any first hand experience with the Hooker full length headers (part # 2210). I looked at Hookers web-site and while they don't list any fitment issues, i decided to speak with someone in the tech department to make sure. Upon doing so and giving them all the vehicle information they proceed to tell me that our headers don't have any fitment issues but, you can't use solid motor mounts with these headers because the headers were built to be used with standard rubber mounts that "sag" somewhat. They claim it will not put the motor in the right location, problably cause control arm clearence issues and :blah: . So now that i've heard all the :blah: from them, who's using them with solid mounts, what if anything had to be done, and are there any other unforseen fitment issues?

[five7kid]

I don't have any direct personal experience, but from what I've heard from many others, they are a real hassle to fit, regardless of what mounts you're using. You basically have to make the car fit the headers.

I'm not sure I'd blame Hooker for this, as it would seem the Exhaust Department wasn't invited to any of the 3rd gen design meetings.

I have heard the Hedman full-length hedders fit a little easier. They're 1-5/8" primaries, which is probably one reason they fit better. Unless you're making well over 400 HP, that shouldn't be a factor.

[Superchief]

The motor is making well over 400hp....actually it's 615hp (all motor) according to the engine dyno and we used 1 7/8 stepped to 1 3/4 headers. I found one thread on a third gen site that was about 8 pages or so long about all the wonderful things that different people have had to do to get these things on their cars. Just finding it hard to believe that hooker is claiming there are no fitment issues...:eek: . Besides the fitment issues, $700 or so for the ceramic coated ones is quite a bit of dough to shell out when i could have a set custom made for $1600 and they fit without doing a thing. Might be better off just having ones custom made.

[five7kid]

One way to look at it is since you're making 615 HP, you're into much-modified territory, anyway. Most everything is going to have to be beefed up or modified to handle that power. So, what's the big deal about having to make some mods to get some headers to fit?

Which custom headers were you considering, Lemons? I haven't delved into that territory, but I've always heard you're looking at custom fabrication at installation with them as well. I've also heard that tubular cross-member/front suspension helps a whole bunch in these clearance and fitment issues. With 615 HP, that may not be a bad way to go, either.

[Superchief]

One way to look at it is since you're making 615 HP, you're into much-modified territory, anyway. Most everything is going to have to be beefed up or modified to handle that power. So, what's the big deal about having to make some mods to get some headers to fit?

Which custom headers were you considering, Lemons? I haven't delved into that territory, but I've always heard you're looking at custom fabrication at installation with them as well. I've also heard that tubular cross-member/front suspension helps a whole bunch in these clearance and fitment issues. With 615 HP, that may not be a bad way to go, either.

To tell you the truth, the only thing left on the car stock is the front k-member and the body. Just tired of the " sure this thing a ma gig is made to fit that car exactly" until after the fact of paying hard earned money for it. My theory is if i'm already spending $700 for a quality product that according to whatever company is supposed to fit, why am i modifing it? Anyway, the headers are made by Stahl are ready to go and i will be installing them. Thinking this really might be the way go since there won't be any fitment issues.

[89gta383]

You have to grind a little on the control arms for the headers to fit, only install the passenger side header with the starter unbolted, and jack the car way up in the air to put both sides in. The flexible brake lines almost touch them in places, but you can push them out of the way after taking off the brake line holding tabs. If you have a knock sensor, you need to move it to the driver's side of the block. If you are using the oil pressure cut-off switch above the oil filter, you need to remove that also when putting in the headers.

Besides that, they are a bolt-in.:o :duh: