View Full Version : Mallory HyFire 685 multispark
Anyone here using the Mallory Hyfire multispark ignition with the N2O?
I'm pretty sold on this unit as it has spark retard, rev limiting and a built in window switch. It looks like all that would be needed other than this ignition and harness is a fuel pressure safety switch.
If I go with the Hyfire 685 I will need to come up with a harness. Some are saying the MSD harness will work perfectly with the Mallory ignition. I need to find someone who has gone this route and get some tips, suggestions and advice.
please help if you can, thanks....
The Black Z
04-03-2006, 04:24 PM
Is this on a LT-1 or LS-1, you have both listed in your sig.
I have this box on my LT-1. I did not use the harness, I hard wired mine.
Love this box, I have had several boxes in the past. Crane, Accel, MSD. I like this one the best.
Grims
04-03-2006, 05:43 PM
Is this on a LT-1 or LS-1, you have both listed in your sig.
I have this box on my LT-1. I did not use the harness, I hard wired mine.
Love this box, I have had several boxes in the past. Crane, Accel, MSD. I like this one the best.
It's his LT1 (read your other post)
I ahve the same box with the MSD Harness, I love it.
It's his LT1 (read your other post)
I have the same box with the MSD Harness, I love it.
Do you remember the part# for the harness? I'm thinking my coil is different from your 96.
Does the Hyfire come with plain instructions? I'm totally new to this part of the car. Thanks to both of you for replying. :thumbsup:
Sorry to answer my own question but here's the MSD harness part# for my 95 (dual connector) coil is MSD-8876.
96 and later (single connector) coil harness part# is MSD-8877.
And for anyone who chances upon this thread looking for this sort of information, I did some research and there are a couple of color differences when hooking the Mallory 685 hyfire CD Mult-Spark harness into the MSD plug-n-play harness.
Connecting MSD harness to Mallory Harness MSD to Mallory:
(MSD)Red to (MALLORY)Red
(MSD)Black to (MALLORY)Black
(MSD)White to (MALLORY)Green
(MSD)Orange to (MALLORY)Yellow
LT1-TA
04-09-2006, 07:57 PM
i will have mine at my door tomarro wiht the MSD harness.
96 and later cars will use the single connectors and the pre 96 cars will use the dual connector.... total will be $278 or so through summit.
How have you made out with your setup LT1-TA?
I'd like to compare notes with you regarding the Mallory. I have a few questions to see if you are experiencing the same thing that I am.
The unit seems to function excellent but I have an anomally and am wondering if it is normal and nothing to be concerned about or a problem.
Because the n2o kit selonoids are grounded through the Mallory's window switch violet wire I have found that testing the noids with the engine not running causes the solenoids to open and close rapidly rather than just snapping open or closed when the power is turned off. I would have thought that they wouldn't function at all until the window rpm was achieved but they are apparently getting a ground signal when the Mallory isn't firing the coil and possibly getting an intermittent signal when it is. This is of course a concern....
I can't verify that this will happen when the engine is actually running because there's too much noise to hear the solenoids. I may contact Mallory before actually firing the n2o. Any thoughts or experience from here would be helpful. Thanks.
I've been perusing my old thread subscriptions and I'll answer my own question (above) since I now have the answer from Zex.
The weirdness I was experiencing is unique to the ZEX kit because of the electronic open throttle sensor for the ZEX nitrous management unit (NMU). An engineer at ZEX tells me there is an issue with a voltage feedback that borks the pcm's TPS signal. What this means is the car's PCM doesn't see the correct voltage signal coming from the throttle positioning sensor when the ZEX unit is energized and consequently the PCM adjusts engine parameters accordingly. I would imagine this includes fuel trims and timing. Supposedly a resistor has to be added to the wire that goes between the TPS and the Zex NMU. The same engineer also tells me that I should not be using the Mallory (or any aftermarket ignition) window switch with the Zex kit.
My Zex NMU has recently failed and I have sent it back to them for warranty repair on an RMA. I am currently awaiting word on what is wrong and if they are going to fix it. To be honest, I am a bit disappointed with the Zex kit at this point in time. Their customer service leaves something to be desired as I can't seem to get any answers at all online and they haven't returned any of my phone calls. It's only been a few days but that is plenty of time to respond to something like this. I will post my results for a couple of reasons. The one most important is for others to know what they may experience with these kits and how they may work with other components like the Mallory ignition.
ZEX customer support really gets a bad reputation by giving advice like that.
If you want to wire in a window switch with your ZEX system, its easy. I've done plenty of them and they work great. Also upgrading your ingnition system is a great idea and won't have any adverse affects on your nitous system.
Vinny
I've been perusing my old thread subscriptions and I'll answer my own question (above) since I now have the answer from Zex.
The weirdness I was experiencing is unique to the ZEX kit because of the electronic open throttle sensor for the ZEX nitrous management unit (NMU). An engineer at ZEX tells me there is an issue with a voltage feedback that borks the pcm's TPS signal. What this means is the car's PCM doesn't see the correct voltage signal coming from the throttle positioning sensor when the ZEX unit is energized and consequently the PCM adjusts engine parameters accordingly. I would imagine this includes fuel trims and timing. Supposedly a resistor has to be added to the wire that goes between the TPS and the Zex NMU. The same engineer also tells me that I should not be using the Mallory (or any aftermarket ignition) window switch with the Zex kit.
My Zex NMU has recently failed and I have sent it back to them for warranty repair on an RMA. I am currently awaiting word on what is wrong and if they are going to fix it. To be honest, I am a bit disappointed with the Zex kit at this point in time. Their customer service leaves something to be desired as I can't seem to get any answers at all online and they haven't returned any of my phone calls. It's only been a few days but that is plenty of time to respond to something like this. I will post my results for a couple of reasons. The one most important is for others to know what they may experience with these kits and how they may work with other components like the Mallory ignition.
Thanks Vinny for the reply. You're a great resource and a terrific help!
I've blocked off the nitrous system on the car so I can drive it around. It isn't a DD so there's no problems otherwise.
The situation I have encountered is the following:
I have wired in a test button to verify the solenoid(s) are working. With the ground going through the Mallory Hyfire window switch I get a pulse ground. What I'm saying with that is the solenoids come on then off repeatedly. I don't think this actually happens when I am at wot but it is apparent there's a problem otherwise.
Second situation. The motor revs about 400 rpm when I energize the nitrous system. I still have to conclude that what the "engineer" at Zex (actually COMP Cams) is telling me is correct. There is something going on with Zex throttle sensing and feedback to the PCM. The car won't even shift with the nitrous armed below the window switch activation point. This isn't an issue at open throttle but still, it's disconcerting since I don't have the stuff to monitor timing and knock count yet.
Just so everyone knows, you're not the one who sold me the Zex outfit. The bottle heater you sent me works exceptionally well btw. Thanks again!
The ZEX box ground should NOT be grounded to the window switch. Check wth Mallory for the maximum current (in the Mallory manual or call them)for the window switch output. I know that all other window (MSD & FJO)switches are only capable of 3A or less which isn't nearly enough for your solenoids.
The best way to wire up a window switch to your ZEX system is to use a relay to cut the TPS input. I can make a wiring diagram if you need it. What this does is remove your TPS signal until your in the right RPM window, then the relay connects the TPS signal to your ZEX box. Hopefully that is clear.
If not, Pm me your email address again and I'll put a diagram together for you.
Vinny
Thanks Vinny for the reply. You're a great resource and a terrific help!
I've blocked off the nitrous system on the car so I can drive it around. It isn't a DD so there's no problems otherwise.
The situation I have encountered is the following:
I have wired in a test button to verify the solenoid(s) are working. With the ground going through the Mallory Hyfire window switch I get a pulse ground. What I'm saying with that is the solenoids come on then off repeatedly. I don't think this actually happens when I am at wot but it is apparent there's a problem otherwise.
Second situation. The motor revs about 400 rpm when I energize the nitrous system. I still have to conclude that what the "engineer" at Zex (actually COMP Cams) is telling me is correct. There is something going on with Zex throttle sensing and feedback to the PCM. The car won't even shift with the nitrous armed below the window switch activation point. This isn't an issue at open throttle but still, it's disconcerting since I don't have the stuff to monitor timing and knock count yet.
Just so everyone knows, you're not the one who sold me the Zex outfit. The bottle heater you sent me works exceptionally well btw. Thanks again!
I think I understand you. JFYI the amperage rating according to Mallory is 10 amperes. That is the same rating requirement stated in the ZEX manual.
I already have 3 relays installed, one being for the bottle heater but what you recommend was something I was considering anyway. It looks like I will have to call ZEX again since they aren't getting back with me and I will try to add to my understanding regarding the problems. Thanks again!
I just took a look at the mallory manual and noticed it was 10A too. That is pretty high compared to every one elses.
Either way, I'd still use it to break the TPS signal, instead of powering up the Zex box.
Vinny
I think I understand you. JFYI the amperage rating according to Mallory is 10 amperes. That is the same rating requirement stated in the ZEX manual.
I already have 3 relays installed, one being for the bottle heater but what you recommend was something I was considering anyway. It looks like I will have to call ZEX again since they aren't getting back with me and I will try to add to my understanding regarding the problems. Thanks again!
I just took a look at the mallory manual and noticed it was 10A too. That is pretty high compared to every one elses.
Either way, I'd still use it to break the TPS signal, instead of powering up the Zex box.
Vinny
I agree. I'm going to put another relay in there and have the grounding from the Mallory close another circuit. The Mallory window switch wiring is a meager 20 - 22 gauge wire. However, from my experiences the ground side of a circuit doesn't require the same gauge as the positive side. Case in point is car battery to the starter and chassis. Never the less, I'm going to switch the switch so to speak.
Just to set things straight regarding my warranty request on the Zex NMU; COMP Cams called me today and said they would be sending a new unit. The tech said he will also send me a RES 9600 (9.6k resistor) in case the new NMU still has my idle up when the unit is armed. He doesn't know if the unit was defective from the get go or not but wants me to try it without the resistor between the TPS and Zex throttle sensor first. If I still get the elevated RPM then I'm to install the resistor.
Very good customer service from my perspective.
Thanks again for your help Vinny!
Oh well, I'm not going to worry about how this looks with my dominating this thread. I have a couple things I want to pass on regarding the Mallory 685 Hyfire and my warranty experience with Zex.
I think I p-o'd someone at the warranty service dept. when I called again to see where my NMU replacement was because I ended up with the supervisor. He was all business but told me the NMUs were out of stock and it could be a month before they get any more. I asked him who I could speak with to find out for sure and he told me it was him.... I then told him if it was going to be a month before I saw the replacement I needed to "figure something else out". This is the beauty of using a credit card.... He called me back within an hour and told me they would send a replacement unit pulled from another kit. The new NMU and res9600 was at my door within two days so I have no complaints. It still made me a little nervous. The res9600 (a 9.6k resistor in a heat shrink covered wire) almost entirely fixed the high idle and delayed transmission shifting. It looks like I get about 100 rpm or less when arming the nitrous system but the whole thing seems to work again.
As for the Mallory 685 Hyfire. First of all, I really like this box but I read in Chris' faq located here: http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/faq.php?faq=lt1faq (http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/faq.php?faq=lt1faq) that ignition amplifiers greatly reduce the life of the opti-spark. This is very helpful information as I don't want to diminish the life of such an expensive component. I think the solution is to use the bypass loop connector when I'm sure to not want my N2O.
Feedback on this is wanted. Thanks everyone for reading....
sinistr
03-13-2007, 07:13 PM
how have you liked the mallory??? i'm in the market for one and thats the one i'm sold on........did you get all the bugs worked out?? any other issues with it?? how has it been working as a whole with the rst of your system??
All sorted out sinistr; thanks for reviving the thread. Although i don't use/connect the box very often when I do, it's perfect. One of those things I'm glad to have bought. It really is a nice mod and an important one if you have nitrous or forced induction.
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