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imported_admin
05-10-2005, 10:59 AM
With a Strange 12 bolt and McLeod Street Twin cluch, can I clutch dump to launch the car or is that going to cause the driveshaft to break?

The ST is impossible to slip....if I keep the dumps to 3000-3500rpm will I avoid driveshaft problems or other things such as twisting the output shaft of the transmission?

Helmsdini
05-10-2005, 07:20 PM
chris, do you run an alum. driveshaft? I have never seen an aluminum ford unit break, especially in a street car. The things you are going to be beating on most by dumping the clutch are lash items, such as rear end gears, axles, etc. (TIRES) You would have to REALLY hook and have some real solid axles to snap a driveshaft in half.. now the bolts might be a different story, but they are usually really strong as well. Also in the transmissions they typicly arent of the steel that likes to twist, they will break if anything, or more commonly strip the splines into the yoke of the driveshaft and make it a real pleasure to try and remove. I have seen yokes twist, but never an output shaft.

imported_admin
05-10-2005, 07:40 PM
I am running the OEM steel driveshaft.

I have a buddy with a 97Z, 400hp to the wheels, McLeod clutch, Moser 12 bolt... Several 5000rpm dumps twisted his output shaft.

I will have the Strange 33 spline axles and Eaton posi in the new 12 bolt.

F-Bobby
08-01-2005, 02:25 AM
you should call up Dennys driveshaft and have them make you an Aluminum one with a nice yoke on it. one of the chicks on LS1tech just destroyed her driveshaft at the track on saturday. and just in case, i hope ya have a drive shaft loop.

Chris 96 WS6
08-01-2005, 08:35 AM
I have a loop on the Spohn Tq arm I'm putting in. I'll stay with a steel driveshaft. Alum is too brittle for serious drag racing IMO.

baddogz28
08-01-2005, 10:58 AM
I'm installing the Denny's N20 shaft with the lifetime guarantee. I doubt I'll break it, but if I do, I'm covered.

snakeoilperformance
08-17-2005, 10:33 PM
you should call up Dennys driveshaft and have them make you an Aluminum one with a nice yoke on it. one of the chicks on LS1tech just destroyed her driveshaft at the track on saturday. and just in case, i hope ya have a drive shaft loop.

defintaly get denny, his shafts are second to none. i am using the nitrous ready shaft also, and it shouldnt break!

snakeoilperformance
08-17-2005, 10:37 PM
I have a loop on the Spohn Tq arm I'm putting in. I'll stay with a steel driveshaft. Alum is too brittle for serious drag racing IMO.

when i talked to denny, he suggest the aluminum shaft for my car since it was so heavy, and asked why i suggest the nitrous ready. "well i plan on buidling a stroker motor built for forced induction and using nitrous off the line, bashing gears with a 6 speed twin disc clutch, with 4.56 and drag slicks!!"

he then said, ok i think you need the nitrous ready shaft!

Chris 96 WS6
08-17-2005, 10:38 PM
I can have a steel driveshaft made locally with upgraded yoke and U joints for $200 that's strong enough the T56 output shaft will twist before the DS breaks. Not worth 2-3 times that for an exotic alum or CF one IMO.

NXSLT1
08-18-2005, 03:53 PM
I can have a steel driveshaft made locally with upgraded yoke and U joints for $200 that's strong enough the T56 output shaft will twist before the DS breaks. Not worth 2-3 times that for an exotic alum or CF one IMO.


I just got done with building my 9" and am using the stock driveshaft for now. I see yer in Nashville, just up the road, I need a stronger one, where you getting this driveshaft??