turbo or supercharger or build engine?

[94formula]

alright, i have been doing some hard thinking on this subject. some of my buddys around town have superchargers, some have turbos, and some have just built their motor bottom and top end. i am wondering what the cheapest way is? what gets the most hp? what is better for daily driving and still retain aprox the same gas milleage as stock.? thanks for the help in my future plans.

[99formulam6]

i say build the motor. if you boost it right away you will only want to crank up the boost, and that will break stuff. build it, then boost it.

[Transamman25]

Buy a Built 383 Crate .. thats what my plans are .. Golen makes a LT1 383 crate engine putting out 480 hp and 510 ft lbs of torque .. and they have guys who slap p1-sc's on em .. thats my plans .. tell me id have a hard time racing anyone on the street ill call you a liar ..

[DvBoard]

build a forged low compression big cube engine, then boost it.

[Eric@VictoryRacing]

We have various short blocks that would be a great platform for your project. I have listed a few of them below, and welcome the opportunity to assist you or answer any questions you may have.

VRE 355LT1 Economy Shortblock-$2999.99 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.480? stroke Cast Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 383LT1 Economy Shortblock-$3199.99 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.750? Cast Crankshaft, Eagle H- Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings, Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 355LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3290.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.480? stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings, Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 383LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3415.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.750? stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings , Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 396LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3490.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.875? stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

[derek]

I'd go with turbocharging.On a stock motor don't use more than 5-7 lbs of boost and watch for knock on a scan tool. To juice up the boost you would have to build it like a turbo motor. I think 5-7 lbs on a normally aspirated motor will give serious grin factor:D

[CamaroJake]

Turbo's get better gas mileage and more power for the same boost. Build up a low compression big cube engine and slap a turbo on.:werd:

[Doug 97SS]

We have various short blocks that would be a great platform for your project. I have listed a few of them below, and welcome the opportunity to assist you or answer any questions you may have.

VRE 355LT1 Economy Shortblock-$2999.99 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.480” stroke Cast Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 383LT1 Economy Shortblock-$3199.99 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.750” Cast Crankshaft, Eagle H- Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings, Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 355LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3290.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.480” stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings, Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 383LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3415.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.750” stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings , Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs

VRE 396LT1 Racer Shortblock-$3490.00 NO Core Charge
-Eagle 3.875” stroke 4340 Crankshaft, Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods, SRP Pistons, Perfect Circle Rings, Clevite Main Bearings, Clevite Rod Bearings , Clevite Cam Bearings, ARP Main Studs


I love it when Sponsors actually participate! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: I say check these guys out...A 383 LT1 with a Procharger mild cam can put out an easy 600+hp at the wheels. No flames..another member on a different board has this combo and he is putting those numbers down.

Granted Turbo's are cool....But my choice on that route would be STS...Supercharger would be Procharger all the way...Good luck with what you decide...:thumbsup:


Oh a question to VRE....I am looking on your website and your site states Core Charge on all the Shortblock combos...etc....Just curious...

[TheFormula]

For cost effectiveness and reliability, build the motor then spray for the track.

[Eric@VictoryRacing]

We no longer have core charges on our LT1 short blocks or long blocks. I just haven't gotten a chance to change it on the site.:thumbsup:


Oh a question to VRE....I am looking on your website and your site states Core Charge on all the Shortblock combos...etc....Just curious...

[LT1-TA]

We no longer have core charges on our LT1 short blocks or long blocks. I just haven't gotten a chance to change it on the site.:thumbsup:
Would one of those shortblocks (with lower compression pistons... somewhere in the 8.4:1 to 8.6:1 area) be able to handle 15 # of boost? Maybe more?

Im not sure who i was talking to on the net at VRE, but i am planning ona 800rwhp monster this comming year. Putting together the turbo setup right now (decided to do my own custom one instead of PTK... AKA PTS).

If one of your shortblocks will get me there, then i will jsut buy one. But i also want splayed 4 bolt mains.

If not it is no biggy... i will jsut buy all the parts from you guys.

[Eric@VictoryRacing]

Not a problem to do a short block with splayed caps and that compression ratio to handle that power. We can build it and ship it to you or sell you the parts an you can assemble it yourself. Please feel free to contact us with any questions you may have.:D

[Chris 96 WS6]

Not a problem to do a short block with splayed caps and that compression ratio to handle that power. We can build it and ship it to you or sell you the parts an you can assemble it yourself. Please feel free to contact us with any questions you may have.:D

:thumbsup:

Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy to see sponsors so active/interactive with members :)

[Moparnos (The SLP Guy)]

alright, i have been doing some hard thinking on this subject. some of my buddys around town have superchargers, some have turbos, and some have just built their motor bottom and top end. i am wondering what the cheapest way is? what gets the most hp? what is better for daily driving and still retain aprox the same gas milleage as stock.? thanks for the help in my future plans.
well for starters FI is not cheap and it's easier to get more power from a turbo than SC cause you don't have to worry about belt problems and so on at high power levels. when ever you mod, your fuel consumption goes up so pretty much you have to payup at the pump. i would say first thing you should do is figure out what is your goal and then see if your pocket can provide for that goal. if you plan doing FI your best bet is to get a short block first since you have a lt1(check out sponsors, force fed is very reputable). build it with your goal in mind so you use the proper parts and don't have to come back and do it again. if you choose SC go with vortech or procharger. keep away from powerdyne their very tempting for the lower price they go for. they have problems with overheating,internal belt problems, and bearings. then the most important thing about FI is the fuel setup where many people skimp out and don't buy the right stuff. and finally the tune, it will either make you or break you. so have it tuned by a good tuner. if ya have any more questions let me know.

[Exotic Performance Plus]

Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the horsepower. People are always asking the question of whether to go with a head and cam package, or go with a supercharger or turbocharger. There is no way you are to match the power of an ATI ProCharger with a head and cam package unless you use a pretty radical camshaft. Nitrous oxide could be used instead of going the forced induction route, with very good results at a fraction of the cost. A cold air kit would be required if you elect to use nitrous oxide instead of going the forced induction (ATI ProCharger) route. The ATI ProChargers come with a K&N cone filter. With forced induction, such as the ATI ProCharger, the power is always going to be there when you want it, with no nitrous bottles to constantly refill. A turbocharger could be used instead of an ATI ProCharger, but I am not convinced that the turbo kits currently out on the market will stand the test of time. TurboChargers go through extreme heat cycles, which can fracture the turbo housing mounts.
With the items listed below, your car would be quite capable of routinely running low eleven second 1/4 mile times, or faster, when combined with the M/T Street radial rear tires.

Everyone has their opinions on what is the best package, and here is mine.

1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction.

2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction.

3. Moser 12 bolt - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:73 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine.

4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 12 bolt with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain.

5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search on this forum for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails.

At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.

6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed.

7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers.

8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body.

9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace.

10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.

11. Rear coil spring air bags - By experimenting with adding more air to the right air bag than to the left one, better off the line traction can be found.

12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on our cars. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dial. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted.

13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line.

14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Hooker and Flowtech headers, and the Hooker and Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems.
Flowtech and Hooker ceramic coated headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance. The Flowtech headers are priced very competitively with PaceSetter headers, yet they install and fit much better. The ceramic coatings go a long way towards keeping the exhaust temps in the pipes, keeping the engine bay cooler and improving internal exhaust scavenging. These two brands of headers will give you 2.5" more in ground clearance compared to SLP headers.
The Hooker and Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.

For those of you who want it loud. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will annoy everyone around you, the two above exhaust systems are not for you. The SLP "Loud Mouth" cat back is a good system for those of you who want to be noticed. When we have one of these cars on my dyno with a loud mouth exhaust system, everyone around our area can hear the car!

15. ATI ProCharger D-1SC eight rib supercharger - Simply the best and easiest way to get 450 to 500 rwhp out of your car in my opinion, when combined with headers and a good cat back exhaust system. The car will still see great part throttle gas mileage, overall driveability will still be excellent, and the power is always there when you want it. At 8 pounds of boost, the car will be very dependable, and with the twin high flow air to air intercoolers, unleaded premium is all you need to use. I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC "tuner" kit, as the D-1SC can handle future mods much better than the P-1SC. You will need 42 lb fuel injectors, a 255 litre in tank fuel pump, and chassis dyno tuning with the "tuner" kit.

Hopefully this list will help you in your quest for having a quick car! Bob