Just bought the Roadmonster, what should I have my mechanic check out?

[Freedster]

Good morning, all.

Bought the 1996 Roadmonster Sedan last week, and I'm taking it into my mechanic's on Monday to give it the once over. It looks, drives, sounds and smells like a clean, well-maintained car, but I figure it's always best to go with a professional opinion.

I know it has a coolant leak at the pump, something's making the heater get not quite as hot as I'd like, and the ABS light is on all the time, but other than that it seems like everything is working just fine. Naturally, I'll get all of those checked out. I'll have him switch away from the Dex Cool if he ends up having to drain the cooling system. I'll also have him check all 4 brakes and have the old girl brought up to date with it's factory recommended 100,000 mile maintenance. That's already all planned.

My question is, what ELSE should I have him look over? Anything LT1 specific I should have him look at? Anything B-Body specific? Anything Roadmonster specific?

Your input appreciated.

Thanks!

- Freed

[mrcadillac]

Alot of my LT1 cars(5 out of 8) have had heat issues. Notmally its from a gunky cooling system, with a partly plugged heater core. The Idler Arm, and center links are normally worn out by 100k. Definatly the idler arm. The window rollers love to break, and the windoes with go up funny. If the windows go slow, get the rollers greased before they break.

Make sure the opti vent harness is working. It can save the opti. It's at 100k? i would do a complete tune up. Fuel filter, plugs, PCV valve, EGR valve check, clean the Throttle body bores, and the MAF resistors. I like to inspect all the fluid, and if the Power steering, or brakes fluid is a dark shade, change it. Also check the trans fluid color. I would have the trans filter changed, and a fluid exchange(not a power flush), as the transmissions in these tend to just up and go out. my red roadmasters was toast at 110k. My current fleetwoods has 180k. Just depends.

Best of luck. :)

[Freedster]

Wow, great advice, and thank you very much. A couple of quick questions based on what you wrote:

- Did you have any luck doing one of those cooling system flushes (like the kit they sell at walmart) in restoring your heat, or did you need a new heater core?

- As far as cleaning the throttle body bores goes, what's involved in that?

- Similarly, what's involved in cleaning the MAF resistor? Is it one of those heated wire MAF's and I could just spray it down with carb cleaner?

- Where's the fuel filter on the car? I'm not scared of doing that one myself if it's not any tougher than the one on my S-10 was. Is there some brand of fuel filter I should avoid?

- Is there a trans cooler on the car? Should I install one if there's not already one there?

Thanks again for the help!

- Freed

[mrcadillac]

Wow, great advice, and thank you very much. A couple of quick questions based on what you wrote:

- Did you have any luck doing one of those cooling system flushes (like the kit they sell at walmart) in restoring your heat, or did you need a new heater core?

With most, it took a flush with a cleaner(like prestone), then had to flush some of the 2-3 more times. A slow flush on the core normally sves it. But it can't always save them. the cooling system is the #1 neglected system in my book.

- As far as cleaning the throttle body bores goes, what's involved in that?

Throttle body cleaner, and a tooth brush. I like to then run seafoam thru the motor while it;s running.(un plug the MAF, remove home plate, dump a lil in) then let the motor sit for 20 mins or so, then start it and let it SMOKE. Many like to use other vacum ports. I also like to over load the back few ports with TB cleaner, start it for a sec, shut it off, then then it sit for 20, then let it run. that all helps to remove build ups, and free the rings(atleast the top ring). Carb cleaner smells ALOT more harsh. I have bee told it can hurt the injectors, but I use carb cleaner sometimes.

- Similarly, what's involved in cleaning the MAF resistor? Is it one of those heated wire MAF's and I could just spray it down with carb cleaner?

Electrical parts cleaner, and use a Q tip to clean the "pill resistors" on the MAF, CAREFULLY!!!!!! !! clean till the Qtips come out clean. cleaning the inside housig helps as well..

- Where's the fuel filter on the car? I'm not scared of doing that one myself if it's not any tougher than the one on my S-10 was. Is there some brand of fuel filter I should avoid?

I would suggest an ACdelco, WIX, Hastings... Fram makes crap... It is located in front of the rear tire, on the frame rail. not sure which side.

- Is there a trans cooler on the car? Should I install one if there's not already one there?

Yep, has 2 trans coolers, one rad, one external. I don't think heat is the issue. It's gunk. The cooler on my fleetwood was gunked BAD.

Thanks again for the help!

- Freed

[Freedster]

Thanks again. Just one comment below. :)

- Freed

Wow, great advice, and thank you very much. A couple of quick questions based on what you wrote:

- Did you have any luck doing one of those cooling system flushes (like the kit they sell at walmart) in restoring your heat, or did you need a new heater core?

With most, it took a flush with a cleaner(like prestone), then had to flush some of the 2-3 more times. A slow flush on the core normally sves it. But it can't always save them. the cooling system is the #1 neglected system in my book.

- As far as cleaning the throttle body bores goes, what's involved in that?

Throttle body cleaner, and a tooth brush. I like to then run seafoam thru the motor while it;s running.(un plug the MAF, remove home plate, dump a lil in) then let the motor sit for 20 mins or so, then start it and let it SMOKE. Many like to use other vacum ports. I also like to over load the back few ports with TB cleaner, start it for a sec, shut it off, then then it sit for 20, then let it run. that all helps to remove build ups, and free the rings(atleast the top ring). Carb cleaner smells ALOT more harsh. I have bee told it can hurt the injectors, but I use carb cleaner sometimes.

Sounds like the GM "Top End Cleaner" treatment I've done on a couple of cars. Is Sea Foam's about the same thing? Good idea.

- Similarly, what's involved in cleaning the MAF resistor? Is it one of those heated wire MAF's and I could just spray it down with carb cleaner?

Electrical parts cleaner, and use a Q tip to clean the "pill resistors" on the MAF, CAREFULLY!!!!!! !! clean till the Qtips come out clean. cleaning the inside housig helps as well..

- Where's the fuel filter on the car? I'm not scared of doing that one myself if it's not any tougher than the one on my S-10 was. Is there some brand of fuel filter I should avoid?

I would suggest an ACdelco, WIX, Hastings... Fram makes crap... It is located in front of the rear tire, on the frame rail. not sure which side.

- Is there a trans cooler on the car? Should I install one if there's not already one there?

Yep, has 2 trans coolers, one rad, one external. I don't think heat is the issue. It's gunk. The cooler on my fleetwood was gunked BAD.

Thanks again for the help!

- Freed

[Freedster]

Alot of my LT1 cars(5 out of 8) have had heat issues. Notmally its from a gunky cooling system, with a partly plugged heater core. The Idler Arm, and center links are normally worn out by 100k. Definatly the idler arm. The window rollers love to break, and the windoes with go up funny. If the windows go slow, get the rollers greased before they break.

Make sure the opti vent harness is working. It can save the opti. It's at 100k? i would do a complete tune up. Fuel filter, plugs, PCV valve, EGR valve check, clean the Throttle body bores, and the MAF resistors. I like to inspect all the fluid, and if the Power steering, or brakes fluid is a dark shade, change it. Also check the trans fluid color. I would have the trans filter changed, and a fluid exchange(not a power flush), as the transmissions in these tend to just up and go out. my red roadmasters was toast at 110k. My current fleetwoods has 180k. Just depends.

Best of luck. :)

:LS1LT1flag::LS1LT1flag::LS1LT1flag::LS1LT1flag::L S1LT1flag::LS1LT1flag:

OK, I'm in my kitchen officially applauding. <pauses to clap> Thank you very much for the advice. You were spot on with the front suspension advice. I had a broken sway bar link too, along with the stuff you listed. BIG safety issue as far as I'm concerned, so I'm glad you suggested having them check it out.

You were also right on the PCV valve and that needed a hose too. Got a new trans filter and new fluid, oil change, and all the other fluids checked out good. Going back in a week to get my ABS and water pump fixed.

Been pricey so far, but I'm hoping this is all for a while. :)

Thanks again!

- Freed

[mrcadillac]

if you put $200 in now, it will save you an added $400 down the road.

Did I mention checking the center link and idler arm? I read thru it qickly and didn't see If I did. the idler arm is sh*t by 100k, and normally the center link it too. and at that point, you might as well do the tie rod ends, and adjuster sleves, since it will need an alignment ayways. Broken sway bar links are so common I didn't even think about it. I have broken too many to count, and had many come loose.

[Freedster]

Yep, you mentioned them, and they were all bad. I had him show me the old ones and in some of the wear areas they were wore down as thin as pencil lead from a combination of corrosion and wear.

Thanks again!

- Freed