What next?

[renzo778]

O.K. I have a 94 impala ss. I just got the hypertech programmer in today. Along w/tha whole MSD setup, 6AL box, blaster coil, cap/rotor, wires, and adapter harness. NE sugestions on what i should do next :dontknow:? I'm thinkin about going w/a 52mm tb, or going to tha 3:23 gears. Im all ears????

[96redlt1ta]

Have you done any exhaust yet?? If not I would say to start there.

[Roadhouse]

Click on this link for a very informative guide to the Impala SS.
http://gofasst.us/ss_handbook.htm

[sdstick]

Cold Air intake, Exhaust, then 3.73 Dont mess with you tb, what you have is sufficient for your stock cam & heads. It'll act like a totally different beaSSt

[CKJ]

The idea of a motor to perform better is to get as much air in as fast as you can and out as fast as you can w/out the motor leaning out. Think of it as a giant vacume...cause it pretty much is. Do the basic boltons first, CAI, exhaust. Etc. Then the next purpose is to get the motor to spin up faster, whether it be a stall converter or lightweight flywheel (not a b-body thing i know) and gears. Then you work on the internals and thats where it gets pricey. But as for a bigger TB, you really don't need one until you run out of bolt ons and start doing heads/cam work. Then a 52mm will be more than enough.

[sdstick]

BTW Its an Impala so you have 3.08's Options for 3.42, 3.73. 4.10 & 4.56
IMO Best bet 3.73

[03slowZ06]

I would say sell that hypertech you just got and buy a real tune.

[mrcadillac]

O.K. I have a 94 impala ss. I just got the hypertech programmer in today. Along w/tha whole MSD setup, 6AL box, blaster coil, cap/rotor, wires, and adapter harness. NE sugestions on what i should do next :dontknow:? I'm thinkin about going w/a 52mm tb, or going to tha 3:23 gears. Im all ears????

First thing I would do? Return that Hypertech programer. PCMforless can do a MUCH better job.

also, the 6AL box does nothing for you, until you want to spray nitrous.

Don't waste your time on 3.23's. I went from 3.08's in my 96 9c1, to 4.10's, and I love it. It gets off the line ALOT quicker.

If you add a 52mm TB(one of the last bolt on mods, as far as $$ per hp), you need to have the PCM tuned for it, otherwise you run the risk of burning the trans up from not enough pressure.

I would suggest you do a Catback. Get a pypes X pipe 2.5", your muffler of choice 2.5"(offset in, offset out), and 2 dynomax/walker over the axle pipes 2.5", then what ever tips you want, and the hardwear to clamp it.

OR, theres the "215 catback, which consists of 4 pipes, and muffler of choice. The 2 cat to mufler pipes are 45687 & 45688, then the over the axle pipes are... 54016 & 54017. This gives you a full MANDREL bent 2.5" catback, for about $215 using Summit Turbo Mufflers. Which actually outflow flowmasters, and sound pretty good. Or theres the JEgs catback for $255.

OR, the ultimate in cheap-o, Add some stright pipes where the mufflers were, and leave it at that. i currently have that on one of my cars, and I get compliments everywhere I go, and It cost me $40. A full 2.5" catback WILL give you more power, since the stock pipes are 2.25"*crush bent* to the mufflers, and 2" after the mufflers*also crushed very bad!!*

Right now I have that exhaust hooked to a set of CIA Tri-Y headers, and cat delete pipes. Sounds freakin NASSTY, check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_ZoGgreFKU

[mrcadillac]

BTW Its an Impala so you have 3.08's Options for 3.42, 3.73. 4.10 & 4.56
IMO Best bet 3.73

with 26" tires 3.73's would be my choice too, but with 28" tires, it;s 4.10's in my book, since the 4.10 28" combo is only slightly lower than the 3.73's 26" tire. I love the 4.10's in my 96 caprice.

[mrcadillac]

Here should be your mod list

1. tune it up, plugs(autolite 104), wires(MSD, Magnacore etc), fuel filter, clean the TB/MAF, oil change, EGR valve(for the 6 speed F-body, trust me), PCV valve(AcDelco!!), and O2 sensors(AcDelco!!!)
2. Tune up the other things you forgot, and run autoRX thru the oil. You WILL see a 5-15PSI jump in compression.
3. TB-bypass, & 160* Tstat, air pump disable(yes, even CA people can do this! GM said so!!)
4. Cold Air Intake. Many options. RAISS, SSRI, Ram it, K$N FIRK, PVC to cut up stock box(works better than you think! Works better than a cone filter without a heat shield)
5 Exhaust, Full catback. Many options. Do a 2.5", Mandrel bent if you can. The stock cats flow very well.

Past here, you can mix things around until # 14

6. PCMforLess, I opted to wait until I had my headers and 1.6 rockers, and 4.10's so I only had to payfor it once.
7. Headers, Don't waste your money on shorties. Flowtech 49100's work very well! Clear Image Auto Budgets, or Tri-y's.
8. Valve springs(stock ones SUCK!! Actually my 1st mod, after intake and exhuast) and 1.6 roller rockers. Valve spring Comp 26915, with 787 retainers, 1318-16 Comp rockers.
9. Racetronix Fuel pump harness kit, and Walbro 225 pump. You don't NEED this, but it ensures you don't go lean and detonate, and kill your engine. Also makes it so you don't need bigger injectors, as soon. Since it boosts the voltage at the pump, and the pump can support more power.
10. 4.10's/3.73's, Eaton posi(the stock posi is WEAK... hit or miss) and a full diff rebuild.
11. after the higher ratio gears, you might need a Denny's driveshaft, do to vibes.
12. Trans-go Shift kit, Get it from ProBuilt Transmissions. Cheapest, and best put together I have found. Helps the trans live longer. A MUST.
13. High stall torque converter. a 9.5" unit. Higher stalls, in a 12" is not good. They are sloppy. I would suggest Edge, Yank, or Precison Industries(PI/Vigilate). These brands in 9.5" drive very much like stock when cruising, and lock-up saves you from losing MPG on the highway.
14. F-body MAF, 52mm TB(have your stock one rebored by the guys on ebay... Better quality than the aftermarket units. add an air foil at that time) SVO 30lbs injectors. stock ones are normally ok, even with a beigger cam, but if your gonna go any further, you might want to get these. NOTE: These 3 need to be delt with by PCMforless!!
15. Electric water pump. The stock pump does a great job, and doesn't suck THAT much juice. These have been known to fail(don't know how often), and when they do, your SOL unless you have a spare, and are watching your temp gauge

16 bigger cam. I'm going to get a custom one from Advanced induction.
17 Ported stock F-ody heads. The aftermarkets(as cast, and about the same cost), can't compeat with Advanced Induction ported stock Aluminum heads.

This also doesn't mention taking care of your brakes, suspension, or dying trans. Thats a whole nother thread.

What else ya wanna know? :P

[renzo778]

Here should be your mod list

1. tune it up, plugs(autolite 104), wires(MSD, Magnacore etc), fuel filter, clean the TB/MAF, oil change, EGR valve(for the 6 speed F-body, trust me), PCV valve(AcDelco!!), and O2 sensors(AcDelco!!!)
2. Tune up the other things you forgot, and run autoRX thru the oil. You WILL see a 5-15PSI jump in compression.
3. TB-bypass, & 160* Tstat, air pump disable(yes, even CA people can do this! GM said so!!)
4. Cold Air Intake. Many options. RAISS, SSRI, Ram it, K$N FIRK, PVC to cut up stock box(works better than you think! Works better than a cone filter without a heat shield)
5 Exhaust, Full catback. Many options. Do a 2.5", Mandrel bent if you can. The stock cats flow very well.

Past here, you can mix things around until # 14

6. PCMforLess, I opted to wait until I had my headers and 1.6 rockers, and 4.10's so I only had to payfor it once.
7. Headers, Don't waste your money on shorties. Flowtech 49100's work very well! Clear Image Auto Budgets, or Tri-y's.
8. Valve springs(stock ones SUCK!! Actually my 1st mod, after intake and exhuast) and 1.6 roller rockers. Valve spring Comp 26915, with 787 retainers, 1318-16 Comp rockers.
9. Racetronix Fuel pump harness kit, and Walbro 225 pump. You don't NEED this, but it ensures you don't go lean and detonate, and kill your engine. Also makes it so you don't need bigger injectors, as soon. Since it boosts the voltage at the pump, and the pump can support more power.
10. 4.10's/3.73's, Eaton posi(the stock posi is WEAK... hit or miss) and a full diff rebuild.
11. after the higher ratio gears, you might need a Denny's driveshaft, do to vibes.
12. Trans-go Shift kit, Get it from ProBuilt Transmissions. Cheapest, and best put together I have found. Helps the trans live longer. A MUST.
13. High stall torque converter. a 9.5" unit. Higher stalls, in a 12" is not good. They are sloppy. I would suggest Edge, Yank, or Precison Industries(PI/Vigilate). These brands in 9.5" drive very much like stock when cruising, and lock-up saves you from losing MPG on the highway.
14. F-body MAF, 52mm TB(have your stock one rebored by the guys on ebay... Better quality than the aftermarket units. add an air foil at that time) SVO 30lbs injectors. stock ones are normally ok, even with a beigger cam, but if your gonna go any further, you might want to get these. NOTE: These 3 need to be delt with by PCMforless!!
15. Electric water pump. The stock pump does a great job, and doesn't suck THAT much juice. These have been known to fail(don't know how often), and when they do, your SOL unless you have a spare, and are watching your temp gauge

16 bigger cam. I'm going to get a custom one from Advanced induction.
17 Ported stock F-ody heads. The aftermarkets(as cast, and about the same cost), can't compeat with Advanced Induction ported stock Aluminum heads.

This also doesn't mention taking care of your brakes, suspension, or dying trans. Thats a whole nother thread.

What else ya wanna know? :P
I got a set of Headman shorties on craigslist, i figured "WTF y not" right? Neway, i've had em for like 3 months now and im finally gettin around to puttin em put on. So yesterday my boy comes n picks it up. Well he just called me n said that on the drivers side tha steering shaft wont bolt up 2 tha shaft. its like a inch or so off. Any ideas on wtf i can do?

[SEDCSS]

renzo you should print what caddy said and put it in your glove box , also sell everthing you got hypretech, headers and all stick to the blueprint set by caddy shorty headers and and that programmer will get your doors blown off

[KW Baraka]

I got a set of Headman shorties on craigslist....my boy......just called me n said that on the drivers side tha steering shaft wont bolt up 2 tha shaft. its like a inch or so off. Any ideas on wtf i can do?

Yeah. Sell the headers.

Hedman does NOT make headers for our cars. Those are probably F-body headers and unless you can fabbed up an extension pipe that WON'T impede flow......and unless the headers clear the frame, then they can't be 'made' to fit a B-body.

KW

[mrcadillac]

OR, the ultimate in cheap-o, Add some stright pipes where the mufflers were, and leave it at that. i currently have that on one of my cars, and I get compliments everywhere I go, and It cost me $40. A full 2.5" catback WILL give you more power, since the stock pipes are 2.25"*crush bent* to the mufflers, and 2" after the mufflers*also crushed very bad!!*

Right now I have that exhaust hooked to a set of CIA Tri-Y headers, and cat delete pipes. Sounds freakin NASSTY, check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_ZoGgreFKU

After driving it like that for about a year, I cam to my senses that it sounds to crisp, and it needs more distortion. I ended up selling the headers off it, since the headers were worth about as much as that rust bucket car. I ended up putting stock manifolds, with cat delete pipes on it. It is still a little too loud, and lacks the throaty tone. But with the cats is a different story. I think then, it is distorted enough, and held back some, so it does sound pretty good. I drove the car thru a winter with that no muffler, no cats exhaust, and it was LOUD, with all the tire spinning in the snow... :eek:

[mrcadillac]

After a few years of messing with the cars, and having some cars at differnt stages of bolt-ons, different combos, etc, I would add a few things to the list, and definitely have a better grasp on what items you should do before others. I have a full bolt on car, and a full bolt on cammed car right now. One thing that really should be high on the priority list is a set of Lower control arms for the rear. Without them, the stock ones flex all over the place, and hinder traction.

Do the gears before the converter!! I did my Caprice this way(it was already full bolt ons, & cammed, on the stock gears and converter. It was alot more fun with the gears. then when I put the converter in, the thing was an animal. On the other hand, on my Jesus RMS, I put the converter in first. That was a mistake. The thing felt pretty sloppy. BUT, it was a looser 3400 Edge. The 3000 Edge in the "Buffman" RMS drives quite a bit tighter, paired with 3.73's vs the 3400 Edge in the caprice paired with the 4.10's. But I don't really know how old this converter really is. I wonder if a newer 3400 Edge would driver nicer, as some guys have noticed when they went with a newer higher edge, which actually was a higher stall than their older unit. I will have to check the serial number on it this spring when it comes out, and ask edge how old it is.

Also, a tune does wonders for even a stock car. I put off the tune for a long time, because I only wanted to pay for it once. If I did things over, I would do the valvesprings right after the CAI & mufflers, and have it tuned right away. That way you can have the shift points raised, and the car won't really need a new tune unless you do the gears, bigger TB, or F-body MAF. You would also need to have the stock line pressure put back in, if you had bumped the trans line pressure(a very good thing with a stock trans valvebody setup). I put a PCM in with a trans that had a shift kit, and it shifted WAY too hard at part throttle, and I was always worried about it busting a hard part at WOT. With just resting my foot on the gas, it would hit so hard on the 1-2 that I was sure something would bust. This was with a sloppy 3400 converter, that really couldn't chirp the tires, even though it was cammed, with all the bolt ons, and 4.10's. The same trans(stock tune) ina 95 Caprice, would chirp the tires on the 1-2 at pretty much anything over 1/4 throttle. This was a CAI & catback only car, that seemed rather weak compared to my other near stock cars.

Something worth mentioning after having 11 running LT1 cars, is that not all LT1's are created equal. They all seemed to run pretty strong, but a few stood out to me as being a little sluggish. A few others really stood out as being very stong runners. Which is something worth keeping in mind. On a few of them, the sluggishness ended up being something that just wasn't quite right with them, that didn't really stand out. Like a plugged fuel filter, or a bad sensor. Which just confirmed to me that you really need to check the car over with a fine tooth comb, and make sure everything is fresh, and in great working order before you start to mod. I thought I had it all covered a few times. But then I found one "minor" issue that turned out to make a world of a difference.... and one that actually cost me an engine. I have now added, "tighten all the intake manifold bolts" to my tune up list. The bolts were finger tight on the Jesus RMS. I'm thinking it was lean on some pistons, detonated, and caused a rod bearing to spin. I'm still kicking myself on that one. I knew the intake gasket was leaking(oil was covering the trans), and it just didn't run strong. You can pay a little upfront, or pay alot later.

[SEDCSS]

bored huh

[mrcadillac]

yea... couldn't sleep.

[SEDCSS]

i can tell you love these cars you remind me of my man nabil

[KW Baraka]

Apparent, Nab loves women (or at least one woman) now :cool: .......

KW

[SEDCSS]

yup following in the steps of his daddy karl