pont463
10-18-2007, 12:20 AM
I used to be a ls1 guy, but those days are gone. BUT i did get a lot of good advise and help from you guys before, and i do trust your judgement.
I am putting together a stock car engine for my friend, and i have a few questions. This may seem really strange, but the rules for the class are very strict. I have to use a factory production 350 old school block, factory production crank, and rods, and there are only 4 different head casting numbers that i can run. The cam is limited to a 69 z28 cam and nothing can be roller. I even have to run a 2 barrel carb on this thing..They do check all this out, so i don't want to cheat. Here is my plan.
I have an old 2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt block that is in great condition. what i have heard is that a lt1 crank is about 10 lbs lighter than the older cranks, and is much stronger. Is there any truth to this? If it is in deed lighter and stronger, i will get the rear seal adaptor and run the lt1 crank. I know that the Lt1 rods are lighter, so naturally i will run those as well, unless you guys think this is a bad idea. I was going to get rods out of a 265, and run pistons for a 6 inch rod, but i found out that i can only run 5.7 rod, so that ended that. I'm not sure what i have to do with the balancer stuff, but i do plan on getting the entire assembly balanced.
My main goal here is to lighten up the lower end with strong factory parts. The rules will not let me grind or cut or drill anything down there, so i will have to do the research to make it work. I also had a idea about turning down the crank to the small journal rods, and running those to save weight. That would be a legal idea, but i don't know about it..
Any help or advise would be great.. Thanks again guys
I am putting together a stock car engine for my friend, and i have a few questions. This may seem really strange, but the rules for the class are very strict. I have to use a factory production 350 old school block, factory production crank, and rods, and there are only 4 different head casting numbers that i can run. The cam is limited to a 69 z28 cam and nothing can be roller. I even have to run a 2 barrel carb on this thing..They do check all this out, so i don't want to cheat. Here is my plan.
I have an old 2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt block that is in great condition. what i have heard is that a lt1 crank is about 10 lbs lighter than the older cranks, and is much stronger. Is there any truth to this? If it is in deed lighter and stronger, i will get the rear seal adaptor and run the lt1 crank. I know that the Lt1 rods are lighter, so naturally i will run those as well, unless you guys think this is a bad idea. I was going to get rods out of a 265, and run pistons for a 6 inch rod, but i found out that i can only run 5.7 rod, so that ended that. I'm not sure what i have to do with the balancer stuff, but i do plan on getting the entire assembly balanced.
My main goal here is to lighten up the lower end with strong factory parts. The rules will not let me grind or cut or drill anything down there, so i will have to do the research to make it work. I also had a idea about turning down the crank to the small journal rods, and running those to save weight. That would be a legal idea, but i don't know about it..
Any help or advise would be great.. Thanks again guys