1996 Fleetwood Beast LT1 shuts down when hot

[Reddog993]

This car has ghosts in the machine. The car just shuts off with no warning at highway speeds when hot. I have replaced the ICM, MAF and COIL within the last week. Before the replacement parts the car would have to idle until warm before being driven and would only occasionally shut down when hot.

After the parts the car start fine and drives fine until I put a load on it. I think the car is running hot. I have no leaks.

I had the codes pulled that read P1379. This was fixed with the ICM.

In this heat I can only drive the car 2 miles at 80MPH at which time it just shuts down.

Any Ideas besides lighter fluid and a sledge hammer?
__________________

[mrcadillac]

I would replace the ignition modual. My 96 caprice just up and shut down, and that was the issue. They are be finicky. They have a bunch of cooling fins, and conductive goo on the back to help cool it.

More than once, on older cars of mine, I had small parts like this cause serious friggin frustration. On my 73 ambassador, this little modual deal inside the distributor was causing this exact problem. I could go about 1/4 a mile. Then I had to wait about 5 minutes for it to cool, then I go 1/4 mile, it does it again. this was in the heat of August a few years back.


All you need is a screw driver to do a few tests. Pull a plug wire, and stick the screw driver in the boot, and lay it on anything metal, and watch for spark when a friend cranks it. If there's no spark, it's an Ignition Issue. And you need to work back to the coil thru the wires, and then work back. If it does spark, then you move to fuel. First check the presure test port on the fuel rail at the back to make sure it sprays all over the place. If it does, put the screw driver on the intake at the injector and listen for it. If you don't have presure, you might have a loose fuel pump ground. Or just a loose ground in general.

[Reddog993]

Thank you Sir! I did replace the ICM ( Ignition control module) along with the coil and MAF early last week. The parts were from autozone and not OEM. The dealer wanted twice the price as Autozone for this stuff.

Do you think it would be worth buying OEM parts?

[mrcadillac]

Depends what you went with. But, I think alot of the brands are OK. Let me find the Info for "Dal". He's our guy who works at a dealership in Ohio and sells to us for cost + 10%.

What brand stuff did you use?

[mrcadillac]

Dal Slabaugh GM Parts Toll Free (877) 448-5451 email: lockitup@ohio.net (lockitup@ohio.net).

Dal's been around for a long time. His cost is basically wholesale plus maybe 10% and shipping. He ends up being less than GM parts direct. If it's GM then he can get the part for you. He prefers emails, busy man, and please don't just use him to get the part #'s and then buy elsewhere.

[Reddog993]

Thanks again! All of the parts were duralast parts. I think it's a Autozone house brand. I'll give your guy a call as soon as I know what to order. I still can't pinpoint the problem.
Thanks again.

[mrcadillac]

The duralast brand has been pretty good so far. The Battery's are actually VERY good stuff.

After the car dies. When you turn the key on, does the fuel pump kick on? When it dies, does it cough a little bit, then shut down, or is it just like you turned the key off?

[Reddog993]

You hit thr nail on the head. It just shuts off. I checked to feul pump and th pigtail. The car is laughing at me. She is Black on Black with long beautiful lines. She insists on being a PIG!