engine removal/installation - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

Welcome to LS1LT1.com/LS3forums.com - please click here to register...

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 10
 
engine removal/installation

Hey, new here, my girlfriend has aquired a 95 trans am with a rod knocking lt1 and a 4l60e. I've been tasked with removing the engine and reinstalling. The donor engine is from a 94 Buick roadmaster, I will be swapping the heads and intake off the old motor as they are alum and the intake has all the proper vacuum nipples and locations on it. Reading I see people remove the engines out the top and the bottom, we will be doing this in my buddys garage with no hoist, we both have worked as techs in the past so we arent biting off more then we can chew. Which is the best way to be doing this? top or bottom, our donor engine came half swapped into a 94 firebird and I just cut the front off and pulled the engine trans out that way and shredded the car. It also came with new in box pacesetter headders, should I be keeping the stock manifolds or installing them? the quality of the welds looks questionable. I'm also considering deleting the air pump while the engines out, being a 95 which looks like it does not have the 2nd 02 behind the cat I will not get a check engine light?

All suggestions are welcome

Thanks
seanf is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 02:02 PM
Global Moderator
 
cocobolo95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fruitland Park,Florida
Posts: 11,480
 
Also swap the f-body cam into the roadmaster engine as it's cam is for a big heavy cruiser.

If you are working without a hoist, you can go out the bottom if you have a couple of floor jacks to help hold the works.

If taking from the top, you would have to remove the entire top end, and still need a hoist to pull the engine out. Unless you and your friend can man handle about 500 pounds of engine and trans.

So I would pull the engine from the bottom. And rent a hoist. You will only need it for the actual removal and replacement of the engine, trans, k member. Most rental places will only charge one days rent if you pick it up after 12 on Saturday and bring it back first thing on Monday.
cocobolo95 is online now  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 10
 
already have an engine hoist and 30+ gallon aircompressor and all the fixins, the garage has every tool a shop would minus the hoist. Looks like we'll go out the bottom then, would it be any easier to remove the trans first? I'm leary of swapping cams because the engine has a bad rod knock and has metal circulated thru it, I don't want to risk putting in a metal contaminated lifter, the car at most is just going to be a summer sunday driver. Any other tips and tricks are welcome, I'm a vw/audi and fwd gm guy.
seanf is offline  
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 02:23 PM
Global Moderator
 
cocobolo95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fruitland Park,Florida
Posts: 11,480
 
If your going out the bottom, leave the trans connected. Much easier to take it off engine when not in the tight confines of engine compartment.

Have a complete article on removing engine from bottom. If you want the pdf file, pm me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Basically, you lift the entire front of car. Then set it down on some high platforms. Car must be a good height above the ground for engine with k-member and suspension to clear.

While car is going up in the air, the cherry picker is attached the engine from the top, so it can be safely lowered to ground.

Also rear bumper cover might have to come off so front of car can get full swing upward.

For the cam, look at the f-body cam. If it has unusual wear, you can stay with the roadmaster cam. But car will run much better in the f-body with the correct cam.

Last edited by cocobolo95; 06-17-2013 at 02:29 PM.
cocobolo95 is online now  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 03:17 PM
Regular Member
 
Green94Maro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 126
 
I agree with taking it out from the bottom. I pulled my 3.4 once and my LT1 twice out from the bottom and I think it is fairly simple. It is just a little time consuming making sure that everything necessary is removed. Here are a couple of pics of my car while dropping my LT1 so you can get an idea of the type of stands I used to keep the car up.




1994 Camaro - 95' LT1 Swap: CC304, K&N CAI, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow Catback, AIR!, EGR!, A/C!, TB Bypass, Founder's LCA's, Panhard, Subframe Connectors and Strut Tower Brace. PCMforless Tune
Green94Maro is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 10
 
excellent, thanks for the pictures. Any input on the headders and air pump, I see you've deleted yours and you have pacesetter headders as well, how is the quality of them? I think I can remove all the junk, I just don't want a check engine light and don't want to get the pcm tuned.
seanf is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 03:27 PM
Regular Member
 
Green94Maro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 126
 
I have the Pacesetter longtube headers (painted, not ceramic coated) and I think they are great for the price. I had no issues with fitment whatsoever. If you are thinking about installing the headers, I would definitely do it now while the engine is out. As far as the air pump, egr and other stuff, I live in Iowa where there are no emissions checks so for me it was a no brainer to get rid of all of it. It will throw codes, causing your check engine light to come on until you either get the pcm tuned or pull the check engine bulb (which I don't recommend).

1994 Camaro - 95' LT1 Swap: CC304, K&N CAI, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow Catback, AIR!, EGR!, A/C!, TB Bypass, Founder's LCA's, Panhard, Subframe Connectors and Strut Tower Brace. PCMforless Tune
Green94Maro is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 06:07 PM
Global Moderator
 
cocobolo95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fruitland Park,Florida
Posts: 11,480
 
I see you made the 2X4 jack stands recommended by the "removing the lt1 from the bottom" site.
cocobolo95 is online now  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 06:21 PM
Regular Member
 
Green94Maro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 126
 
Yeah I did. They worked excellent in my opinion

1994 Camaro - 95' LT1 Swap: CC304, K&N CAI, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow Catback, AIR!, EGR!, A/C!, TB Bypass, Founder's LCA's, Panhard, Subframe Connectors and Strut Tower Brace. PCMforless Tune
Green94Maro is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 10
 
I plan on keeping the egr, its the air pump I want gone, I saw pictures of the check valve failing and melting the rubber elbow and fuel lines so I want that gone and its hit and miss whether ill get an engine light, some say obd1 I won't others say I will.
seanf is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 09:27 AM
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: FT Bragg NC
Posts: 70
 
My experience is pretty limited but I would say you are probably going to want a hoist. I just got done r and r'ing my lt1/t56 combo through the top. If you're pulling the top end off anyway then this won't be a huge deal. I was a little scared of lifting the whole car. Once you get the accessories out and the radiator etc there is a TON of room in there

"Relish the opportunities to overcome challenges which would crush normal men" - Mark Twight

97 M6 trans am
Mods:
stock lt1 bored .030 over, Forged internals, Ported stock heads and, intake, vortech v2 supercharger, BBK shorties, 60lb Bosch Injectors, Racetronix 255LPH in-tank fuel pump, Vortech T-Rex inline Fuel pump, Denso o2 Sensors, Flowmaster Exhaust
soldierholla is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 11:14 AM
Regular Member
 
terminal_crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: UK England
Posts: 416
 
I've always taken motors out of the top 60's/70's vehicles.
However taking the LT1 out the bottom was straight forward.
I built some large (2-3 foot) stands several years ago but couldn't fit them under due to the engine crane wheels being in the way. You need clearance to get the dolly with the K member/motor on it out from the front or side so the car body has to be up high enough.
This just needs a bit of thought on how and where you lift/jack stuff before you start.
Internet has several excellent articles on doing this, I can't remember which i printed out.
The only things i did different were cutting the brake lines near the ABS on drivers side. I think I could have just unbolted them as easily but no real problem to fix.
The only thing i missed was one black cable on the trans which i snipped.

HTH
Mitch

Terminal Crazy
'95 Z28 M6
Lancashire England
"just the odd mod."
terminal_crazy is online now  
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 10:44 PM
Regular Member
 
new2chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 609
 
Wow.

I guess I am just used to pulling the engine out the top.

Nice work, Green94Maro!

I just pulled my engine out the top, with the tranny attached, in the dark of night.



95 Formula soon to be 4-bolt main 383 LT1. Lloyd Elliott heads/intake/cam. 52mm TB. Bilsteins with Strano springs and swaybars. Poly all around, Founders LCA relos, LCA's and subframe connectors. LTCC ignition. 3.73 10-bolt/Eaton posi. 4L60e w/3600 Revmax stall. Shorties w/center-dumped Dynomax Bullet, for now. Alt only and ABS deleted. Manual rack.
new2chevy is offline  
post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 02:44 AM
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 14
 
Be very careful and look at the cam and heads closely for metal flakes in them. if the old LT1 was coming apart its possible some metal got through the motor. then youll just end up taking out the new LT1
93_camaro_cj is offline  
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 10
 
back from the dead here, engines in, we took the trans out the bottom and engine out the top, going back together was way easier than taking it apart.

The bottom end is 94 roadmaster with the heads from the f car lt1, we just swapped the balancer hub and balancer over along with the water pump and intake. The car runs like a dream and its got a freshly rebuilt trans as well. only problem is the car wanders all over the road and has a terrible clunk and wheel hop with light throttle. I'm thinking its the rear track bar bushings, I did some reading about the body holes becoming elongated, how common is this? should I buy a new bar or replace the bushings with energy suspension offerings? Looking for easy and cheap, this car has been nothing but a headache
seanf is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome