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Old 06-17-2013, 12:49 PM   #1
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Default engine removal/installation

Hey, new here, my girlfriend has aquired a 95 trans am with a rod knocking lt1 and a 4l60e. I've been tasked with removing the engine and reinstalling. The donor engine is from a 94 Buick roadmaster, I will be swapping the heads and intake off the old motor as they are alum and the intake has all the proper vacuum nipples and locations on it. Reading I see people remove the engines out the top and the bottom, we will be doing this in my buddys garage with no hoist, we both have worked as techs in the past so we arent biting off more then we can chew. Which is the best way to be doing this? top or bottom, our donor engine came half swapped into a 94 firebird and I just cut the front off and pulled the engine trans out that way and shredded the car. It also came with new in box pacesetter headders, should I be keeping the stock manifolds or installing them? the quality of the welds looks questionable. I'm also considering deleting the air pump while the engines out, being a 95 which looks like it does not have the 2nd 02 behind the cat I will not get a check engine light?

All suggestions are welcome

Thanks
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
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Also swap the f-body cam into the roadmaster engine as it's cam is for a big heavy cruiser.

If you are working without a hoist, you can go out the bottom if you have a couple of floor jacks to help hold the works.

If taking from the top, you would have to remove the entire top end, and still need a hoist to pull the engine out. Unless you and your friend can man handle about 500 pounds of engine and trans.

So I would pull the engine from the bottom. And rent a hoist. You will only need it for the actual removal and replacement of the engine, trans, k member. Most rental places will only charge one days rent if you pick it up after 12 on Saturday and bring it back first thing on Monday.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:14 PM   #3
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already have an engine hoist and 30+ gallon aircompressor and all the fixins, the garage has every tool a shop would minus the hoist. Looks like we'll go out the bottom then, would it be any easier to remove the trans first? I'm leary of swapping cams because the engine has a bad rod knock and has metal circulated thru it, I don't want to risk putting in a metal contaminated lifter, the car at most is just going to be a summer sunday driver. Any other tips and tricks are welcome, I'm a vw/audi and fwd gm guy.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #4
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If your going out the bottom, leave the trans connected. Much easier to take it off engine when not in the tight confines of engine compartment.

Have a complete article on removing engine from bottom. If you want the pdf file, pm me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Basically, you lift the entire front of car. Then set it down on some high platforms. Car must be a good height above the ground for engine with k-member and suspension to clear.

While car is going up in the air, the cherry picker is attached the engine from the top, so it can be safely lowered to ground.

Also rear bumper cover might have to come off so front of car can get full swing upward.

For the cam, look at the f-body cam. If it has unusual wear, you can stay with the roadmaster cam. But car will run much better in the f-body with the correct cam.

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Old 06-17-2013, 03:17 PM   #5
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I agree with taking it out from the bottom. I pulled my 3.4 once and my LT1 twice out from the bottom and I think it is fairly simple. It is just a little time consuming making sure that everything necessary is removed. Here are a couple of pics of my car while dropping my LT1 so you can get an idea of the type of stands I used to keep the car up.



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Old 06-17-2013, 03:23 PM   #6
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excellent, thanks for the pictures. Any input on the headders and air pump, I see you've deleted yours and you have pacesetter headders as well, how is the quality of them? I think I can remove all the junk, I just don't want a check engine light and don't want to get the pcm tuned.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:27 PM   #7
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I have the Pacesetter longtube headers (painted, not ceramic coated) and I think they are great for the price. I had no issues with fitment whatsoever. If you are thinking about installing the headers, I would definitely do it now while the engine is out. As far as the air pump, egr and other stuff, I live in Iowa where there are no emissions checks so for me it was a no brainer to get rid of all of it. It will throw codes, causing your check engine light to come on until you either get the pcm tuned or pull the check engine bulb (which I don't recommend).
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #8
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I see you made the 2X4 jack stands recommended by the "removing the lt1 from the bottom" site.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #9
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Yeah I did. They worked excellent in my opinion
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:54 PM   #10
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I plan on keeping the egr, its the air pump I want gone, I saw pictures of the check valve failing and melting the rubber elbow and fuel lines so I want that gone and its hit and miss whether ill get an engine light, some say obd1 I won't others say I will.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:27 AM   #11
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My experience is pretty limited but I would say you are probably going to want a hoist. I just got done r and r'ing my lt1/t56 combo through the top. If you're pulling the top end off anyway then this won't be a huge deal. I was a little scared of lifting the whole car. Once you get the accessories out and the radiator etc there is a TON of room in there
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:14 AM   #12
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I've always taken motors out of the top 60's/70's vehicles.
However taking the LT1 out the bottom was straight forward.
I built some large (2-3 foot) stands several years ago but couldn't fit them under due to the engine crane wheels being in the way. You need clearance to get the dolly with the K member/motor on it out from the front or side so the car body has to be up high enough.
This just needs a bit of thought on how and where you lift/jack stuff before you start.
Internet has several excellent articles on doing this, I can't remember which i printed out.
The only things i did different were cutting the brake lines near the ABS on drivers side. I think I could have just unbolted them as easily but no real problem to fix.
The only thing i missed was one black cable on the trans which i snipped.

HTH
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:44 PM   #13
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Wow.

I guess I am just used to pulling the engine out the top.

Nice work, Green94Maro!

I just pulled my engine out the top, with the tranny attached, in the dark of night.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:44 AM   #14
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Be very careful and look at the cam and heads closely for metal flakes in them. if the old LT1 was coming apart its possible some metal got through the motor. then youll just end up taking out the new LT1
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:44 PM   #15
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back from the dead here, engines in, we took the trans out the bottom and engine out the top, going back together was way easier than taking it apart.

The bottom end is 94 roadmaster with the heads from the f car lt1, we just swapped the balancer hub and balancer over along with the water pump and intake. The car runs like a dream and its got a freshly rebuilt trans as well. only problem is the car wanders all over the road and has a terrible clunk and wheel hop with light throttle. I'm thinking its the rear track bar bushings, I did some reading about the body holes becoming elongated, how common is this? should I buy a new bar or replace the bushings with energy suspension offerings? Looking for easy and cheap, this car has been nothing but a headache
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