Broke a spark plug. now what?

[apachebob35]

I was doing a simple spark plug change and my #6 plug sheared off in the engine. The part the socket attaches to is out, as well as the center conductor. Just the threads and some porcelain is left. I am reinstalling my starter now to let the compression blow the chunks out, but how do i remove the threaded part? It is a 97 stock trans am with the starter and driver's cat pipe already removed to access spark plugs.

[cocobolo95]

I'd try an easy out of the size of the hole you have. Hopefully since the pressure of the plug body is gone, it will screw right out. To get at it better, you might have to remove exhaust manifold. Have the piston at tdc on that cylinder so if any chunks break off you can vacuum them out. Turn engine over by hand, not with starter. If all else fails, it's remove the head time.

[apachebob35]

I borrowed a #5 ez out from a friend but I still can't get enough torque to break it free. I used a 3/8 drive 12 point 10mm socket and that worked for a while, but it rounded the socket before the threads broke free. And it stopped in a position that doesn't allow me to get a crescent wrench or vice grips on it. I think I will talk to the sheet metal guys at work tomorrow and see if they have any advice, cuz I really don't want to pull the exhaust manifold. I hear that is a pain.

[apachebob35]

I pulled the oil dipstick to give me room to work from the top, but it hasn't helped. So far I have stripped out a 3/8 dr 12 pt 10mm socket, widened the mouth and rounded the other end of a 10mm wrench, and shattered a crescent wrenches' gear assembly. Can't get vice grips on it. unless I can find a sturdy 10mm 4 or 8 pt socket, i think i may be stuck. I will check at work tomorrow to see if i can find something that might work. Any other advice would be appreciated. It would also be nice if someone on here lived in Idaho, but that is probably too much to ask. this is only the second spark plug I have tried to pull. the first was rusted and black inside, im assuming that caused one of my misfires.

[94Trans-Am]

If you could heat it with Oxy-Acetylene you could get it out with tweezers, unfortunately as its an alloy head and you have no working room it would take the utmost care to do it, if you can, i have no idea how much access there is with stock headers.

[apachebob35]

I welded an ezout to a socket and broke the ezout in the head, so I caved and will pull the head. Anything in particular I should know for a head removal? I plan on following the gm book for it, but tricks would be nice. This means my car won't be driveable for at least a few months due to money issues.

[cocobolo95]

Only trick I can think of is,next time you install spark plugs, put a little anti seize on the threads and torque them to factory specs. Many people install plugs and tighten them down way more then needed.

[apachebob35]

I always use anti-sieze, but I didn't replace the threads last time. The last mechanic has already gotten a piece of my mind for what I have found on this car.

[cocobolo95]

That's why I firmly believe in doing it yourself, unless you have someone you know will do the job right. Unfortunately, the auto repair industry is tuned to doing the work as fast as possible, rather than, as well as possible.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by apachebob35

I always use anti-sieze, but I didn't replace the threads last time. The last mechanic has already gotten a piece of my mind for what I have found on this car.

Make SURE you do not get any anti-seize near the electrode itself. This will cause misfires. You just need a little on the threads.

[apachebob35]

So I'm down to pulling the head off, but I need to ask a newbie question. I have never done internal engine work before. The valve cover is off now but do i need to remove the rocker arms to pull the head off or can I leave them in there? I'm aiming for as little disassembly as possible, and it had a top end job about a year ago and don't want to ruin anything inadvertently.

[GaryDoug]

You may have to remove them enough to get out the push rods, unless you leave them in until reassembly. And label the push rods to make sure they go back in their original position and vertical orientation. That goes for any other parts you remove also. For the plugs, use the manufactures torque specs for tightening them. Tip: for future reference, make sure that the plug threads don't extend into the combustion chamber. It is way too easy to get ones too long as substitutes for the original types.

[apachebob35]

How far do the pushrods extend into the block and will they pose a problem when I remove the head?

[GaryDoug]

First a disclaimer: I have never worked on this engine. You may want to wait for someone with more experience to answer. Here is a cross-section diagram of the engine. I believe the issue would be at assembly, when you try to line up all the pushrods at once if you leave them installed while the head is removed.

[hendy94Z]

On removal it's a pain if the engine is still in the car, labeling and removal makes life much easier and less risk of bending one.