evaporator replacement - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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evaporator replacement

took my 97 in to have the system nitrogen filled after charging my system with dye and letting it run out and still found no leak the nitrogen test shows it leaking from the evaporator any tips on how to pull it all apart to get to it?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-26-2010, 03:34 PM
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pain

My advice is to drink a whole lot of Bourbon, or other alcohol of your choice, and then have a friend beat you with a big stick.Changing your evaporator will hurt more.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-26-2010, 03:35 PM
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But seriously, you have to tear the dashboard apart to get to it.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2010, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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nah it was cake to get it out took an hour to remove it and an hour back in with ease i took the pass seat out
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 11:27 PM
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Elaborate on what you did Kustom. I am interested I might have to do it soon.

'94 Pontiac Formula magnaflow muffler, custom Y pipe no cat, descreened MAF, and homemade slicks In the works: 1.6 RR, Custom CAI, Refreshed bottom end, tucked wiring, AC Delete, Solomon Tune, 30 pound injectors, CC503, Alternator Reloc., LT Headers, maybe a custom exhaust, and a sturdy rear end


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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haha! well first call around and ask some A/C shops if the nitrogen fill systems for leaks. thats the only way i was sure it was the evaporator, first! you must remove the pass seat to make this as less painfull on yourself as you can!!!!!!!
remove glove box,
remove heater core cover,
remove the clamps for heater core both under dash and the one outside by the hoses,
remove heater core,
remove blend door and the actuating cable,
and bam you got yourself an evaporator! it sits in front of you, cut the evap case lip with a razor blade cleanly! its only the bottom lip cut about 4-5" long off, keep this piece so that you can epoxy/jb weld/rtv it back in place when reinstalling.
remove ac lines/expansion valve and the evap will slide out! the evap will take aprox 3-4 oz of 150 weight refrigerant oil before reinstalling the new evap i called the dealer and they couldnt tell weight or amount after finally finding a dealer who used alldata i was able to get the correct weight and amount. only took me an hour to get it out and about an 2 hours back in because of cure time of the epoxy.
reinstall all of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ in reverse order.
vac down should only take about a min or less to get 28" hold vac. for 15 min or so charge with 2 pounds/32 oz of 134 and enjoy!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 10:52 AM
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hey dude where did you get the A/C system filled? My shit is leaking too and I need to have it nitrogen filled to find the leak.

Chrys

96 Formula M6- Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Flowmaster exhaust, cc500, AIR/EGR!, 4.10's, Z06 wheels.

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i crouched down and she laid down between my legs rolled over onto her back and just stared at me.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Arizona Auto Air off main and val vista

http://www.az-autoair.com/

it was free to have it nitrogen filled there
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 07:46 AM
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nice! thanks dude!

Chrys

96 Formula M6- Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Flowmaster exhaust, cc500, AIR/EGR!, 4.10's, Z06 wheels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by preston View Post
i crouched down and she laid down between my legs rolled over onto her back and just stared at me.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-13-2010, 03:35 PM
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For anyone else trying to do this, once you get the heater core out, the housing with the mixing door has 3 screws, two on the bottom, and on is located under the hood above where the heater core comes out of the firewall.. I broke that one because I couldn't figure out what was holding it.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 07:38 AM
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Thanks for adding this information.

My A/C has stopped cooling too. The system is fully charged and apparently doesn't leak. I can hear the clutch engage and slightly loading the engine but the low side plumbing doesn't get cold and the high side doesn't get hot. I've read where the expansion tube could be the problem but from what I've read here, it could be a hard to find fix.

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2001 Z28 M6 NBM ..
LS6 H/C,TimingTuner,Innovate LM-1*LMA-2,n2o,SFC,SLP LM & Lid,CAI,Pro5.0,160,ScanMaster,SS H/W,ZR1wheels,Vogtland lowered
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