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Rebuilt LT1 or New Factory LT1?

5K views 36 replies 8 participants last post by  Xzauhst 
#1 · (Edited)
I have the option to have my lt1 rebuilt or put in a brand new lt1. Basically the oil pressure drops to 0 when the car warms up. I'm thinking a bearing. The rebuild was quoted at around $3,000 and he'll beef it up a bit. Didn't give me too many specifics but I will ask about it. I was also quoted at $3,600 for a new engine and installation.

The car has 170k on it, so let's assume the engine does too. The previous owner said it had 60k on it but who knows.

Will it be better to get a new lt1 put in or to rebuild the one I have now? Is there any difference as far as performance and reliability? The rebuild won't be a factory one, but probably not fully forged like I want it to be for that price. I can't really go over $3,600.

Any input please. I have to make a decision quick and I don't know much about engines as far as rebuilding them and what it means for older engines verses a new one.

EDIT:

Updated pictures of the new engine going in







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#3 ·
The only thing is if it has 170k on it, and being a camaro I bet its been beaten on and rebuilt already. I don't want to compromise it and build it again since I'm going to be racing it a little if its not in good shape to begin with. I guess I'll just have to weigh my options when it gets closer. Its being looked at right now.
 
#5 ·
When I make calls tomorrow for some ideas on pricing for every option I'll get back to you. I was quoted at $3,000 for a rebuild and to beef it up a little, but I'll have to ask what is included in that. I was also quoted for $3,600 for a brand new factory lt1. My dad made that call so I don't know exactly where he is getting the engine from. I'll make sure I know before I even have them look at my baby.
 
#7 ·
I already made my mind up to never sell this car and to never let it die. Its my first car and Im making it new for me, not so someone else can buy it.
 
#9 ·
Im the same way with my 95 T/A Its not my first car, but its my first AMAZING car ive ever owned!!! Go ahead with that New Lt1 for now man, then build it up in a few thousand miles when the funds are there man! that new LT1 Will be faster then that rebuilt one anyways! Go for it man!!!
 
#12 ·
The thing is I was to find the cheapest way to get this up and running asap. I can't do any of the work myself because my dad says its just too much. He wants a shop to do everything so I can't really cut corners with prices by doing things myself. But if I can get it rebuilt and maybe put a few parts better than factory I'll be happy for now.

Sure its better to pay the extra money and get it done the right way now, but being in college I simply don't have all the money to dump into making this a really solid engine. We can talk that after I actually save money up. I'm just confused on what to do. My budget is about $4,000 MAX and even THAT is really pushing it since technically I don't even have $1,000 cash. I can get it though, but it'll be close.

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#13 ·
Why don't your verify what's wrong with your engine first? Don't assume it's a bearing until you know for sure. Did someone put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to confirm oil pressure? It might be as simple as a bad oil pressure switch. If it does have zero pressure find a complete bone yard engine and swap it out to get it back up and running.
 
#15 ·
The thing is I was forced to drive it with 0 oil pressure more than once. The car has stalled and knocked plenty of times while driving it so there's no doubt the engine will be shot after that. I know I probably screwed the engine up bad so I know I'll need a new one for sure regardless of why it has 0 pressure in the first place.
 
#17 ·
The new engine is installed, the other is just the engine rebuild and I'm paying someone to take it in and out for me
 
#18 ·
you need to find out what they mean by new eng. lt1 blocks are not being made by gm any more or by any aftermarket company that i know of. even tho 3600 for a rbuilt insalled eng sounds good youn need to find out what ther puttig in the block .
 
#19 ·
Tbh, as long as it runs for a few months I'll be happy. In 5 months I can save for a forged 383 if I wanted. I just want it running so I can get around again :( even if it costs me double in the long run.
 
#21 ·
I also probably won't hear from the guy until Tuesday maybe. He's had the car for 3 days now and hasn't got back to me. Either he's busy and didn't tell me or I messed things up worse than I thought. If worse is even possible.

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#22 ·
Dont sweat it man! Your doing what your guts tellin you to do! Everything will work out one way or the other, take a DEEEEEPPPP Breathhhe and do some things to occupy your mind for a few days, let the man work :) I know the feelin.
 
#23 ·
Yeah I know. I just want my baby fixed :( I was planning to do a 383 for it but just not this early haha. There's a 383 lt1 short block on summit racing I've been eying for a while that I may go for. Its forged and for $3,000. But how much will it cost to have the rest of the job done? Does anyone know that? Or a rough estimate?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp33/overview/

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#24 ·
if you havent taken your engine out, just do yourself a favor and drop the oil, hit your oil pan with a rubber hammer and if you hear a clang inside, it could be that your oil pick up has fallen down from the oil pump, this happened to me, since they are pressed in.
also you will see if your oil has metal residue, gold/silver sparkles could mean your main bearings or rod bearings including the cam bearings are done....

383ci will come up a lot more expensive on the long run than a stout 355ci, starting with lt1 heads wont flow as needed unless you do an extensive port work plus larger valves, having this settled your manifold wont match the ports on the heads so you would have to port your manifold. your cam will be short so a bigger cam would be recommended, you will also want a tune and larger injectors on the side, this will guide you to a better fuel pump, a larger TB can be thought on there as well.
starting with the price on the 383´s crank, rods and pistons are higher than a stock lt1 crank rods and pistons.
im just putting this on your mind cause it happened to me :(...
 
#25 ·
The guy I gave the car to still has it. I'm getting impatient. He put in a new starter, so at least it starts now, but he hasn't done anything else because he was backed up from the holidays. School starts in two weeks. I need the car done by then. If he can't fix it because its the engine, I need to know quick so I can get it in the hands of an engine builder. That, and I have paychecks piling up because I can't get to the bank... I think I'm gong to stop racing it now haha. It's not worth it...

When I hear from him I'll update again. Hopefully it's not to much longer.

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#26 ·
Alright so I need a new engine. There's metal shavings everywhere and the entire engine is totaled. I was offered a refreshed engine for $2,900 and an installation of $1,500 with other parts costing $800. I'd get a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty. He also said I can get any engine I want and he'd install it for me for the same installation charge. The refreshed engine sounds like a good deal to me. I would like a fully forged 383 but I don't think I can beat the price for that. What would you guys suggest?

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#27 ·
If your not getting better flowing heads, cam, manifolt,tb,tune,fuel injectors, stall, exhaust building a 383 will be a waste of money.
Why? Because as simple as it is: you wont flow the amount of air a 383 pulls from those stock parts.
The best thing u can do is rebuild your engine with flat top pistons with 2 valve reliefs going .030 over. With a good rotating assembly. Get ur block worked for 4 bolt mains. A better cam and if you could atleast match port ur heads and manifold. Thats called a stout 355ci that will give u better numbers than a 383 with stock everything. I know that dew to personal experience in both 383s and over and stout inches
 
#28 ·
I think I'm going to go with the new stock engine. The one I had burned and leaked oil constantly. With the one I'm getting it would be a fresh start with a nice warranty. I could always get it built later down the road. I still want to go with the 383 build first eventually in the future because I want to prep the engine for what I want to do with it first, rather then getting a huge cam and head package and not being able to rev it out to 6700 rpm.
 
#29 ·
thats exactly why I said 4 bolt mains, if you have 2 bolt mains and everything else forged, the weakest link will be the mains, even though just because the engine is prepped with everything to hold high rpm, doesnt mean you can easily turn over 7000rpms... specially if you have a stroker kit.
sounds good that your heading out with a nice stock engine with waranty.
 
#30 ·
So I ordered a remanufactured LT-1. It cost me $2,200 with a $1,500 installation. Damn good deal to get me at least running again. The mods will have to wait at least a year now. College budgets suck, but whatever. I suppose I got a little in over my head too quick.

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#31 ·
Just wanted to say thank you for everyone who helped me make my decision and put their input in. I saw the engine today and it looked amazing. Really wrapped nicely and a great crate too. I was going to take pictures but it was wrapped in plastic and I didn't think they would come out good at all. Hopefully I'll get it on the road by Tuesday. Classes are starting :O

From what I've read from other threads I think I know how to break it in quite well. I'm going to do an oil change at 50 miles and then at 300, 500, 1,000 and so on while varying rpm's and engine braking here and there. No WOT pulls until around 1,000 miles. 80% at the most. And no synthetic oil. Amazing how much you can learn in an hour or two. I'll post pictures and or videos next week.

Again, thank you guys :D

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#32 ·
......From what I've read from other threads I think I know how to break it in quite well. I'm going to do an oil change at 50 miles and then at 300, 500, 1,000 and so on........
Mmmmm.......that's a lot of oil changing.

Do 100 miles, 500 miles.......and then regular 3000 mile intervals.

Go to synthetic after about 9K to 10K miles.

KW
 
#33 ·
Alright so I stopped by the shop today to take a few pictures. It should be done by Thursday.





 
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